Kooks Longtube install finished...

[jmeiers]

Just a heads up on the kooks install, which you probably already know but just in case these are some things I learned. The stage 8 hardware bolts use an 11mm socket/wrench. This is kind of an oddball size. It's well worth having both 3/8 and 1/4 inch sockets (regular and deep). Another must have is an 11mm ratcheting wrench, preferably with a tilting head. I had to go to a few auto parts stores to find one they day of install and while it did ratchet it did not have a tilting end which would have helped alot.

Make sure to get a full heat cycle in and then retorque everything on headers and exhaust connections after it cools back down. I found quite a few bolts that needed retightened.

The stage 8 locking hardware can be tedious to get on, just take your time. We notched a flat head screwdriver to help install the circlips. There is also not enough provided for every header bolt, most likely because some would be impossible to install on.

Don't forget blue thread locker on the engine motor mount bolts (I had to take them all back off and reinstall because I forgot).

Torque off road connection to header ball flare joints pretty good. I had to retorque these quite a bit after a heat cycle. Make sure to install the stage 8 locking hardware on these too.

Looks awesome so far! If you run into any issues lmk and I'll try to help push you in the right direction. It is not easy by any means. I was thankful to get lift time at my buddies shop.

Thanks for all the tips. This is exactly the type of info I wanted to have in this thread so it can help myself and others later.

I reused 7 of the stock studs on the passenger side except for the bottom rear I used an included Stage 8 bolt.

When I retorque the bolts, I assume I have to Jack the motor again and remove the motor mount bracket again to access the bolts? If so, I wonder if I should wait to put the blue loctite on the after the retorque session.

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[SlowJunk]

I ended up taking out all of the stock bolts and replacing them with the stage 8 fasteners. I then bolted everything else on and ran it fairly good for one day and parked it till I could get back in the shop. I put it back on the lift and removed the battery with barrier, starter, and motor mount brackets in order to retorque all the bolts, apply thread locking hardware to the stage 8 bolts, and put blue loctite on the motor mount bolts (after installing and reinstalling lol). Some people and shops just leave it after the install but that is an install I don't want to repeat so I tried my best to do it right. Like I said if you hit any roadblocks gimme a shout. Pm for number. Good lucks

 

[jmeiers]

Passenger header finally installed! In the pic, you can also see the BMR lowered motor mount bracket. The new bracket does not have a way to hold the A/C bracket (red circle). I wonder if I should either zip tie it to the bracket or remove it so it does not rattle and cause any false knock situation???

I immediately went to work on the driver side after I finished the passenger side. It literally took only 15-20 minutes to drop the stock driver header. I got the new Kooks driver side header up just as fast, however, I had to use 5 stage 8 bolts on the driver side because the stock studs would not clear the primary tubes. I need to go get an 11mm ratchet wrench to tighten these up since Amazon messed up the shipment of the one I ordered. Hopefully, Home Depot or Lowe’s has one in stock.

 

[irmoviper]

Passenger header finally installed! In the pic, you can also see the BMR lowered motor mount bracket. The new bracket does not have a way to hold the A/C bracket (red circle). I wonder if I should either zip tie it to the bracket or remove it so it does not rattle and cause any false knock situation???

I immediately went to work on the driver side after I finished the passenger side. It literally took only 15-20 minutes to drop the stock driver header. I got the new Kooks driver side header up just as fast, however, I had to use 5 stage 8 bolts on the driver side because the stock studs would not clear the primary tubes. I need to go get an 11mm ratchet wrench to tighten these up since Amazon messed up the shipment of the one I ordered. Hopefully, Home Depot or Lowe’s has one in stock.

Looks good and thanks for the thread man! If it was me, I would remove the bracket as I hate any rattling noise and the potential for false knock would be there.

 

[Troy Carter]

Passenger header finally installed! In the pic, you can also see the BMR lowered motor mount bracket. The new bracket does not have a way to hold the A/C bracket (red circle). I wonder if I should either zip tie it to the bracket or remove it so it does not rattle and cause any false knock situation???

I reused the stock bolt there with a spacer so that it didn't thread too far into the block and I could bolt the bracket on like stock. You could just stack washers or nuts under it for a quick hack if needed.

 

[jmeiers]

Done!

First start there was a small backfire out the exhaust but then it purred like a kitten after that. I let warm all the way up and nothing was leaking. Took it for a test drive and it is on another level of loud! I didn’t even go WOT because it’s 28 degrees and the Michelin 4S are like hockey pucks in the cold.

Exhaust is now: Kooks catless headers and Ford Racing Extreme (by Borla) catback with Xpipe.

I will drive it like this until after I get it back to the drag strip but I will probably get the Ford Racing resonator midpipe made for my catback to tone it down. With that said, it is still totally livable when cruising and using the throttle lightly. No drone at all. It was actually silent in the car while warming up and the windows up, just like it was before removing the cats. Car ran good on my E85 tune on the test drive and no check engine lights. I used some O2 sensor spacers from Amazon and they seem to work so far. I probably won’t have any sound clips until this weekend since it’s back to work tomorrow. View attachment 429292

View attachment 429372 View attachment 429373

 

[irmoviper]

Done!

First start there was a small backfire out the exhaust but then it purred like a kitten after that. I let warm all the way up and nothing was leaking. Took it for a test drive and it is on another level of loud! I didn’t even go WOT because it’s 28 degrees and the Michelin 4S are like hockey pucks in the cold.

Exhaust is now: Kooks catless headers and Ford Racing Extreme (by Borla) catback with Xpipe.

I will drive it like this until after I get it back to the drag strip but I will probably get the Ford Racing resonator midpipe made for my catback to tone it down. With that said, it is still totally livable when cruising and using the throttle lightly. No drone at all. It was actually silent in the car while warming up and the windows up, just like it was before removing the cats. Car ran good on my E85 tune on the test drive and no check engine lights. I used some O2 sensor spacers from Amazon and they seem to work so far. I probably won’t have any sound clips until this weekend since it’s back to work tomorrow. View attachment 429292

Nice job man! Gives me confidence on doing this myself! Looks and I bet sounds great!

 

[jmeiers]

One tip I wanted to get out there. As stated above, I had to use a total of 5 of the included Stage 8 header bolts on the driver side header because the stock studs would not clear the primary tubes on the top 3 bolts closest to the firewall. The top bolt closest to the firewall is way back there an tucked behind a primary tube. What I did was pick up a set of these very thin and long wrenches from Home Depot. The wrenches are both SAE and Metric, however, this set did not have an 11mm in it but it does have 7/16" which is very close to 11mm. Using the 7/16" wrench, I was able to easily get to that header bolt and make full 45 degree turns.

Still do not have any recordings of the sound but it is stupid loud and I feel sorry for my neighbors for the last 2 days of cold starts. I am looking into stuffing some pool noodles in my exhaust tips to help quiet the cold starts at home.

 

[jmeiers]

Made an attempt to muffle the cold start this morning with a set of pool noodles shoved into the exhaust tips. I got the idea from another post on the forum. Unfortunately, my first attempt at this did not work because they simply blew right out the back and didn't muffle anything at all. I think I will try a longer set that will go deeper into the actual muffler as these were too short to make it very far and prevent a blow out.

 

[Armageddon Turbo]

Looking good! Anyone who wants a new set of these should call us at the number in our signature,. We have a big Kooks sale going!

 

[Troy Carter]

Made an attempt to muffle the cold start this morning with a set of pool noodles shoved into the exhaust tips. I got the idea from another post on the forum. Unfortunately, my first attempt at this did not work because they simply blew right out the back and didn't muffle anything at all. I think I will try a longer set that will go deeper into the actual muffler as these were too short to make it very far and prevent a blow out.

Uh...

Maybe ask your tuner if they can help. I don't know all the details but I think that Ford has cold starts set up to where they are doing something to warm the cats and causes the cold starts to be louder. I have tunes from two different places and one is definitely quieter at cold start which makes me think your tuner may be able to help.

 

[jmeiers]

Uh...

Maybe ask your tuner if they can help. I don't know all the details but I think that Ford has cold starts set up to where they are doing something to warm the cats and causes the cold starts to be louder. I have tunes from two different places and one is definitely quieter at cold start which makes me think your tuner may be able to help.

You are right, I will be asking my tuner to about the cold starts when I get retuned later for the Cobra Jet intake manifold. The pool noodles was something more immediate because I feel sorry for my neighbors. It was worth a shot.

 

[Blown86GT]

Good post! I have a set of Kooks catted headers sitting in the garage.

Are you going to change the tune based on the headers? I wonder if there is any value to a new tune post headers?

 

[jmeiers]

Good post! I have a set of Kooks catted headers sitting in the garage.

Are you going to change the tune based on the headers? I wonder if there is any value to a new tune post headers?

The car runs the same as it did before the headers (drivability wise) and no check engine lights so far using the rear 02 spacers. I would still get a retune or at least send some logs in to your tuner to evaluate to make sure nothing is left on the table. Because the roads have been so cold, I have not been able to go WOT safely without the nannies kicking in. It does feel like more torque down low versus stock headers/cats. I might have to put my 305/45/17 ET Street Rs on to get some logs. Haha.

 

[jmeiers]

I just posted this on another thread talking about resonators...

I just installed the Ford Performance by Borla resonator on my Kooks catless longtubes to Ford Performance by Borla Extreme catback setup. There is absolutely nothing to blow out on this resonator because it does not use sound deadening material or any perforated tubing. Internally it is like an H-Pipe but near the inlet of one pipe has an air chamber and near the outlet of the other pipe is another air chamber. These 2 chambers simply cancel out the obnoxious rasp in the lower rpms. It works surprisingly well and allows me to have much better control over the volume of the exhaust. It is still LOUD AF at WOT and anytime I want it to be. When I had the Xpipe, it simply was ridiculous at any throttle position and I grew tired of it very quickly. I wish I took pictures of the inside of this resonator before I installed it but here is my shitty drawing of it. Ha!

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