Questions about Kooks install.

[Cordero1]

I have a few questions for those of you that have done a header installation on your S550. I will be installing 1 7/8's Kooks brand headers this weekend. As I sit here reading the instructions I noticed it does not ask to remove the steering shaft. Also does not ask to remove transmission cross member bolts. I installed Kooks before on my 14' & that was part of the instructions. I also went through @NGOT8R thread & seen he also removed the steering shaft. Sooo...

Is this something that is done just to make the job easier but not actually required for the installation?
Does everyone go through one heat cycle or more & re-torque?
Is it also required to go through a heat cycle & re-torque the rest of the exhaust hardware?
Does the transmission cross member need to be unbolted for when the engine is lifted up?

Instructions ask to use an engine cradle which I do not have so I assume it's ok to lift from the engine to transmission bell with a jack & a 2×4. Any help & input is greatly appreciated & thanks in advance.

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[Prodigal]

tagged for replies. Ive got the same LTH on the shelf. Are you doing anything with the motor mounts while youre in there? I am considering going with the BMR steel brackets and Steeda adjustable Red mounts. good luck with your install. I hope you have a lift and arent tackling this laying on your back!

 

[NJMike]

I have my Mach 1 at Ford right now doing the install. I do have BMR lowering motor mounts going in too. The tech there said the mounts should make it easier and the steering column should be ok.
Im going there to take a peek in about an hour. I'll ask a few questions and report back. Hope I can help

 

[Cordero1]

Just got back from Harbor Freight. One of my old Craftsman jack stands just broke as I was getting everything set up. Good thing it did that before I actually put weight on it. So had to get a new pair. I will be doing it off my back. Will get started here In a couple of hours after I clean up the garage a bit & warms up.

 

[Cordero1]

I have my Mach 1 at Ford right now doing the install. I do have BMR lowering motor mounts going in too. The tech there said the mounts should make it easier and the steering column should be ok.
Im going there to take a peek in about an hour. I'll ask a few questions and report back. Hope I can help

Thank you. I'll check back in later to see what he told you. This will be fun.

 

[NJMike]

I am very sorry, but he was off today. I did manage to walk around under the car for a bit. The drivers side manifold is very close to the steering column and I can see why it needs to be disconnected.
I plan on shooting back over there Monday for another look. If you still need me to ask, I certainly will.

 

[Cordero1]

Only reason I was wondering is because it does not ask for it on the instructions. But then seen a few threads on here where people did.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Just got back from Harbor Freight. One of my old Craftsman jack stands just broke as I was getting everything set up. Good thing it did that before I actually put weight on it. So had to get a new pair. I will be doing it off my back. Will get started here In a couple of hours after I clean up the garage a bit & warms up.

Enjoy the double digit hour of aggravation lol

Just take your time and don't bull, it'll go together

 

[mkcotton]

I (and my boys) installed the Kooks last fall. It took 12 hrs... as I did it on jack stands.

Answering your questions first:

you need to jack the motor to get to some of the manifold bolts and give you room to feed the headers up from the bottom. Just take the two crossmember to trans bolts out, you need to leave the crossmember in place. I had to remove the starter and disconnect the steering shaft to get the motor mounts out. You can use an engine hoist, i used a cradle from the top.

Yes, I heat cycled and re-torqued 2 times... although I only needed to do it once...

I also used the performance connects from kook (3" to 3") to Borla Atak.

Hope this helps.

 

[smokescreens]

You dont have to remove the whole column. Just unbolt the joint and swing it out of the way

 

[Cordero1]

Enjoy the double digit hour of aggravation lol

Just take your time and don't bull, it'll go together

Yeah this will be my 2nd time around. Just 1st time it was on a gen 1 coyote. A lot tighter this time.

 

[Cordero1]

I (and my boys) installed the Kooks last fall. It took 12 hrs... as I did it on jack stands.

Answering your questions first:

you need to jack the motor to get to some of the manifold bolts and give you room to feed the headers up from the bottom. Just take the two crossmember to trans bolts out, you need to leave the crossmember in place. I had to remove the starter and disconnect the steering shaft to get the motor mounts out. You can use an engine hoist, i used a cradle from the top.

Yes, I heat cycled and re-torqued 2 times... although I only needed to do it once...

I also used the performance connects from kook (3" to 3") to Borla Atak.

Hope this helps.

Where did you attach the engine hoist from? I was about to lift from where the trans meets the motor until I seen the 2 lines that run across where I need to lift from. If I have to go buy an engine cradle from HF I will. I was hoping not to have to remove the steering shaft. I am about to remove the rest of the exhaust here in a bit & stop after the removal of the starter. I already have the car in the air. Thanks for your input.

 

[Cordero1]

You dont have to remove the whole column. Just unbolt the joint and swing it out of the way

Ok will do & thank you!

 

[Cordero1]

Enjoy the double digit hour of aggravation lol

Just take your time and don't bull, it'll go together

I remember the time I did it on my 14. Man that was frustrating. The driver side one I ended up putting in from the top after removing the alternator. This car seems a lot more crowded in the engine bay.

 

[smokescreens]

Ok will do & thank you!

Starter, motor mounts have to come off. The manifold studs it will save youba lot of time if you just crack the nuts loose then jump to removing the studs. A 1/4 socket will work on the end of those studs. And you will need every combonof wrench possible. Stubby swivel heads, ect. A lot of times you will only get a 1/16 of a turn at a time. Wasnt hard just time consuming. Took me about 13 hours over 3 days after work but it was the first time ever doing headers

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