Procharged 2014 overheating issue HELP NEEDED

[Procharged 5.0]

Wasn’t trying to come off as harsh. These systems as you know are pretty simple. Use the heater as a tool since it adds about 20% to the cooling of the car. It ends up being even more since the radiator isn’t fighting the AC.

No your fine I appreciate any and all help. I'm just getting a little frustrated with this issue. And i'm really hoping its not going to come to me pulling the motor. I grabbed a leakdown tester from work and will be doing both a leakdown and another compression check over the weekend.

Again thanks for the input guys

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[Rapid Red]

Never mind you don’t get it and I’m tired of teaching class

Like wise pal

 

[Jackson1320]

I really hope you are right. I looked under the car and it is missing the air deflector. But with cylinder heads temps still getting over 210 just idling i'm not sure that's my only problem. Maybe I also need a fan upgrade along with the air deflector reinstalled.

You can listen to people all day but you need the air deflectors installed. 210 in LV in the summer is fine for idling it’s when you are driving that is important and a fan will not help you there. You can put a better fan to help with idle temperatures but for sure get those air deflector on. I have seen this many many times. Trust me

 

[Jackson1320]

Turning on the heater will not do anything because he already has a large radiator so that would have taken care of that. I know it sounds to easy but just try making a air dam out of something and see. Make one out of duct tape

 

[Jackson1320]

It doesn’t matter how big the radiator is if no air passes through it

 

[ice445]

You can listen to people all day but you need the air deflectors installed. 210 in LV in the summer is fine for idling it’s when you are driving that is important and a fan will not help you there. You can put a better fan to help with idle temperatures but for sure get those air deflector on. I have seen this many many times. Trust me

The radiator and condenser is boxed with little rubber flaps/air dams that force air that goes through the grille to go through the condenser and then the radiator. Missing the lower air dam just affects aerodynamics/economy, shouldn't affect the cooling. He can verify if all the flaps are present by removing the upper rad cover plastic piece.

With that said, idk about a 2014, but I know on the S550, the PCM's cooling strategy is to do nothing until 212F coolant temp. And on the base cars with shutters, it runs them half closed for fuel economy reasons until you hit that magic 212 number.

 

[Jackson1320]

The radiator and condenser is boxed with little rubber flaps/air dams that force air that goes through the grille to go through the condenser and then the radiator. Missing the lower air dam just affects aerodynamics/economy, shouldn't affect the cooling. He can verify if all the flaps are present by removing the upper rad cover plastic piece.

With that said, idk about a 2014, but I know on the S550, the PCM's cooling strategy is to do nothing until 212F coolant temp. And on the base cars with shutters, it runs them half closed for fuel economy reasons until you hit that magic 212 number.

Yes but my point is and he already confirmed that those air dams are missing. The lower dam is for cooling also because if you remove it you allow the air that goes through the grill to go under the car

 

[CJJon]

How about some pics OP? We might pick something up you missed.

Sounds to me like the original owner might have been having issues too when he monkeyed with air dams. Often cooling and airflow isn't intuitive. Opening things up by removing air dams and such usually isn't the solution.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

How about some pics OP? We might pick something up you missed.

Sounds to me like the original owner might have been having issues too when he monkeyed with air dams. Often cooling and airflow isn't intuitive. Opening things up by removing air dams and such usually isn't the solution.

I will have some pictures up today for you guys to look at. Also I will order the air dam that missing

 

[Procharged 5.0]

Here are a couple pictures of the bottom and of the fan/shroud. Let me know if there is anything more specific I should post. Please excuse how dirty the car is I have been thrashing on it the past few weeks trying to get it figured out.

 

[Jackson1320]

If he turns in the heater and the temps don’t come down we can rule out air flow since the heater is going to add 20% to the cooling capacity.

That 40 year mechanic buddy of mine uses the heater to diagnose cooling systems. Beyond the visual inspection that’s the first thing he does on a ride to see what’s going on. In most cars the heater is routed around the thermostat, so you can check a stuck thermostat with this method also(not OPs problem here). You can also check the water pump function with a thermometer in a vent. It the temps come down in the vent the water pump is not moving enough water.

Any good mechanic will use the heater as the first diagnostic tool in many cases.

Not in this diagnosis. He added a 30% larger radiator and that didn’t help. I understand what you’re saying and it’s a useful information but adding 20% to the cooling system will not help if you are not getting airflow through the radiator

 

[ice445]

Here are a couple pictures of the bottom and of the fan/shroud. Let me know if there is anything more specific I should post. Please excuse how dirty the car is I have been thrashing on it the past few weeks trying to get it figured out.

Oh I see, yeah air is just gonna shoot under the rad instead of going through it

 

[Procharged 5.0]

Alright so I did the leak down. Put 60psi in all the cylinders and no air is getting into the coolant system. So I think I can rule out a headgasket.

I ordered the air dam and will give that a shot. If it makes a significant difference while driving then I will look into upgrading the fan to keep it cooler at idle.

 

[FruityJudy]

Not sure I have read all the posts but I would check my coolant. Swap to a 70/30 mix of water/coolant. And swap thermostat to a 170.

 

[Basspro302]

I never had the lower tray on my 13 with a p1sc.
Why don’t you actually measure coolant temps with a pyrometer? Don’t always trust the scan tool or what ever you are using to read cht.
Good luck with it, maybe its time to let someone else look at it. Or when i get stuck come back and start from square one.

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