Procharged 2014 overheating issue HELP NEEDED

[Procharged 5.0]

Alright guys I am at a loss with this car and am looking for some help. Car is a 2014 procharged mustang. I bought the car already modified about 6 months ago. Car ran fine during the winter but as the summer started here in Las Vegas this car wont stay cool. I first noticed the cylinder head temps getting over 240 degrees while i was just cruising around not getting into boost or anything. then I logged the coolant temp and the car is definitely getting hot as i will see 225+ coolant temps again while just cruising.

So far i have changed from a 2 row cold case radiator to a 4 row radiator
changed water pumps to the gen 2 from a gt500 (supposed to flow 30% more)
changed thermostats (tried both 160 and 170 degree)
opened the hood vents
checked the fan and shroud and its working as it should
changed from anti freeze to distilled water and water wetter

and so far nothing has changed.

motor is fine I did a compression check and all is good. Car runs perfect but just gets way to hot.


Any ideas?

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[Procharged 5.0]

Changed cylinder head temp sensor last night. And no change. Still getting ridiculously hot just cruising around. And if I make a pull it will get to 255+ cylinder head temps before I shut it down.

 

[fuelforfire87]

OP, what are your IAT's? also which procharger kit do you have? The H.O. or the Stage II Kit? I know on the 11-14 cars the H.O. intercooler was pretty small and not up to the task of cooling the air, especially at higher than stock boost levels.

 

[SolarFlare]

So I think this is kinda beyond your capabilities to fix. Id find a good coyote shop near you and get it in to them to have them troubleshoot before motor is hurt.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

OP, what are your IAT's? also which procharger kit do you have? The H.O. or the Stage II Kit? I know on the 11-14 cars the H.O. intercooler was pretty small and not up to the task of cooling the air, especially at higher than stock boost levels.

My IAT's run about 5-10 degrees above ambient temperature while cruising. And they will climb pretty high if i make a pull. This car has the F1c head unit kit. I'm not sure which exact kit as it was already on the car when I got it.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

So I think this is kinda beyond your capabilities to fix. Id find a good coyote shop near you and get it in to them to have them troubleshoot before motor is hurt.

Thanks for the reply but im actually an engine machinist for a living and have built plenty of engines in the past. I'm new to this platform though and am just looking for any info on what to look into next. there are no signs of a headgasket issue and all cylinders have good compression. so im kind of at a loss at the moment. And I don't really want to start tearing this thing apart if I don't have to.

 

[silverbullet85]

Is the bypass valve on the procharger opening all the way in vacuum? If not it will build alot of heat

 

[Procharged 5.0]

Is the bypass valve on the procharger opening all the way in vacuum? If not it will build alot of heat

I know it's open but not sure if it's 100% open. I have the red race valve so it's very loud when open. I will check and see if it open all the way or not.

 

[kevinvan6000]

Try changing the Rad cap at all? Do you have access to a coolant pressure tester?

 

[CJJon]

Las Vegas?

You need to change the weather.

 

[silverbullet85]

If you still have cats I wonder of they are partially melted that would cause the engine to build up heat

 

[fuelforfire87]

OP does your car have a built motor? How much boost are you running? A F1C head unit is too much blower for a stock gen 1 bottom end.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

If you still have cats I wonder of they are partially melted that would cause the engine to build up heat

It does still have cats. I didn't think of that I will take a look. Thanks for the suggestion

 

[Procharged 5.0]

OP does your car have a built motor? How much boost are you running? A F1C head unit is too much blower for a stock gen 1 bottom end.

Car has forged pistons and rods. Thats it as far as I know. Boost Is currently at 12psi. Car also has a snow performance water meth kit that activates at 5psi.

 

[Rapid Red]

Don't know what the stock thermostat is, but 160 - 170 sounds low.

If the thermostat is full open at 170, and say normal running temp is 200.

What happens is the water never stays in the radiator long enough to dissipate heat. It's as bad as not having a thermostat .

Some thinking is the 160 - 170 means car should run happy, cooler rang, opening sooner.

Maybe a 6 banger, a V8 needs the water to stay in the radiator longer. 160-180 were a common thermostat setting many years ago now.

Also high flow water pump, pumps the water thru the radiator fast. So you have fast flow, no more cooling happening.

Cooling only happens with the ambient air flowing thru the radiator. Cooling the water in the core. Speeding that water up dose not make it cool more effectively .

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