Procharged 2014 overheating issue HELP NEEDED

[Procharged 5.0]

Turn the heater on high when it start to overheat and see if that cools it down.

forgot to mention I already tried that. Do difference. But thanks for the suggestion

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[Procharged 5.0]

Are the fans turning in the right direction?

Yes. The fan is pulling air through the radiator

 

[Basspro302]

If you have gone threw everything sounds like an air pocket from a blown head gasket or crack in the cylinder and or cylinder head. Leak down test with the radiator cap off and block test. Just had a car in same issues passed a block test but leak down tested and found it pushing air in the coolant although it was a 3.5 ecoboost. Car had no misfires no signs of anything besides overheating. Also check the fan resistor, they are know to burn up on the gen1s my low side would work but the terminal for high speed burnt up.

 

[luc]

That is incorrect

That is incorrect and not the purpose for a thermostat that is incorrect the purpose of a thermostat to keep a engine at operating temperature. Without the thermostat your engine will increase and decrease in temperature based on ambient conditions

A t-stat control the minimum engine temperature, not the maximum
Once the t-start has opened , the maximum temperature is controlled by the system Btu’ s capacity

 

[fuelforfire87]

I didnt even know an s197 cant use the stock fans and radiator with a procharger...

You can use the stock radiator but the fan gets replaced with whe fan shroud in the kit.

 

[Rapid Red]

Let’s say you have a 170 thermostat at 170° the thermostat is wide open it doesn’t regulate it doesn’t open and close “it’s just wide-open. it will not close again until the temperature goes below 170 then it will close and allow the temperature within the engine to rise back up to 170 before opening again. If you are above 170 it will never close. So above 170 it is exactly the same as not having A thermostat

NO it IS not....

The thermostat has a built in restriction. I am sure you have seen that, no ?

@ full open it is STILL slowing the coolant flow so it can dissipate heat as it travels.

Coolant entering the core is hotter from the block. @ the pump it has less heat.

Just the way it works.

 

[Jackson1320]

A t-stat control the minimum engine temperature, not the maximum
Once the t-start has opened , the maximum temperature is controlled by the system Btu’ s capacity

A thermostat controls minimum operating temperature and without one the temperature will depend on the temperature outside but will run cooler the BTU will determine the overall capability of the system. correct

 

[Jackson1320]

NO it IS not....

The thermostat has a built in restriction. I am sure you have seen that, no ?

@ full open it is STILL slowing the coolant flow so it can dissipate heat as it travels.

Coolant entering the core is hotter from the block. @ the pump it has less heat.

Just the way it works.

Never mind you don’t get it and I’m tired of teaching class

 

[Jackson1320]

If you have gone threw everything sounds like an air pocket from a blown head gasket or crack in the cylinder and or cylinder head. Leak down test with the radiator cap off and block test. Just had a car in same issues passed a block test but leak down tested and found it pushing air in the coolant although it was a 3.5 ecoboost. Car had no misfires no signs of anything besides overheating. Also check the fan resistor, they are know to burn up on the gen1s my low side would work but the terminal for high speed burnt up.

I don’t think it has a blown head gasket because it doesn’t get all the way hot just really warm. With a blown gasket it would just continue to get hot. I’m confident it is a lack of air flow

 

[Procharged 5.0]

I don’t think it has a blown head gasket because it doesn’t get all the way hot just really warm. With a blown gasket it would just continue to get hot. I’m confident it is a lack of air flow

I really hope you are right. I looked under the car and it is missing the air deflector. But with cylinder heads temps still getting over 210 just idling i'm not sure that's my only problem. Maybe I also need a fan upgrade along with the air deflector reinstalled.

 

[Basspro302]

I don’t think it has a blown head gasket because it doesn’t get all the way hot just really warm. With a blown gasket it would just continue to get hot. I’m confident it is a lack of air flow

Well i’m not there to diagnose it in person. So cht never goes over 240
Then?

go buy a fluke meter and thermocoupler and get a real reading, check the iat, ect, and ambientair temp sensors after a cold soak make sure they read within a few degrees.
Ive had cars with cracked heads run hot but not overheat. The new escape with the 1.6 has done it to be before. It can happen and does.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

The heater extracts enough heat by itself to keep these cars cool while idling. If you are cruising down the highway and kick on the heater and your temp doesn’t move down, your radiator isn’t the problem.

You can throw money at this but you need to start at square one and use the process of elimination. It’s probably a simple problem.

Have you checked the inlet side of the water pump to see if the hose is collapsing? Easiest way to tell again is turn on the heater with a thermometer in a vent and see if the air starts to cool down after sitting and idling with the heater on while it’s in the very hot range.

I have not tried turning the heater on while driving on the highway. I live in vegas and its been over 110 degrees outside haha. I turned it on while idling though and it didn't change the temps any. I don't believe its the radiator because it was already changed.

I have already checked for a collapsed hose and all is good there. I went over the basics before I started changing parts. Trust me i'm tired of throwing money at it.

 

[ice445]

Do you even have heat? These cars have a tendency to trap air pockets in the heater core when you dump the coolant which causes a significant flow restriction near the CHT sensor.

 

[Procharged 5.0]

Do you even have heat? These cars have a tendency to trap air pockets in the heater core when you dump the coolant which causes a significant flow restriction near the CHT sensor.

Yes the heater work just fine.

 

[ice445]

Welp, pretty strange then. Best guess is that you have a blockage somewhere, or a compression leak into the water jacket somewhere. Compression test won't necessarily show it either, you need to do a leakdown test on all the cylinders.

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