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Oil Pump Question

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eisenhauer01

eisenhauer01

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Let’s see that battery tray installed.
Here you go. I went back out there and installed it just for you haha
I was not ready to hook it up, but now, it is ready when I am!

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@eisenhauer01 cast or billet impeller on the 2200sl?
It is a stock Paxton Novi 2200SL from Beefcake with the "heritage" gears, so cast, right?
They don't come optional with billet impeller I dont think, and it has not been upgraded.
Please don't send me down another rabbit hole for the love of God
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80FoxCoupe

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Here you go. I went back out there and installed it just for you haha
I was not ready to hook it up, but now, it is ready when I am!

20251227_170606.webp




It is a stock Paxton Novi 2200SL from Beefcake with the "heritage" gears, so cast, right?
They don't come optional with billet impeller I dont think, and it has not been upgraded.
Please don't send me down another rabbit hole for the love of God
😆 I wasn't sure if the 2200sl had the billet impeller or not. Looked to be cast but I just assume I'd ask. It will rip either way!
 

NGOT8R

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What’s the weight savings compared to the factory battery? How much lower does it sit down in the box?
 
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eisenhauer01

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Well, I am tired and my joints are not too happy!
On Friday while waiting for the headers to arrive, I loaded the base tune from Wengerd.
The RTD4 is a pretty cool device, as is the TDN app.
I was having some issues with losing connection pretty frequently, but after a firmware update to the device I hope it is fixed.

The headers finally came Saturday afternoon, so I got to work installing them.

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What a step above in regards to quality these Ultimate Headers are.
The workmanship is outstanding. I really like the investment cast flanges.

So, I put the passenger side on first. It was not too bad.
I had left the AC Compressor un-mounted from the engine, to help give me some room to install the headers. It did help.

However, I missed something.
While I was waiting on the headers to arrive, I went ahead and installed the Paxton and it's bracket. Well, the AC belt goes around one of the support spacers on the bracket assembly, and there is no way to install the AC belt, without removing the entire supercharger and it's bracket assembly.
Not a huge deal, maybe 20min worth of work, but still..
After that was resolved, I installed the Gates Green 102 belt.

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.

I am running a 3.6 Griptec pulley, and the idler was in the 2nd hole (left to right).
That belt was not going on, no matter how hard I tried.
Ended up moving the idler into the 3rd hole (left to right) and it went on, barely.
It is not maxing out the factory tensioner, but it is close.

20260103_205853.webp


Finished installing the drivers side header, and tightened up the new Steeda Motor Mount bolts.
Then I worked on some coolant hoses and the CAC pipes.
I ended up buying all new silicone couplers for it, to give me a little more room to work.
The factory couplers from Vortech are just barely long enough to make work.

After the CAC pipes were all installed, I wanted to start it for a few seconds to verify I have good oil pressure, as that had not been done yet. That went well. Oil pressure shot up as soon as it started up. The walls of the garage shook pretty good with no cat-back exhaust installed yet.

Went ahead and installed the Borla Touring cat-back system I previously had on the car with the Pypes LTH's. It is a factory connect kit, so it was pretty straightforward.

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I cut the fan shroud to create clearance for the BMS shorty filter.
Installed the vented catch can.
Then I made some custom coolant hoses to get things plumbed up.
Got the coolant reservoir installed, and began putting some coolant into it.
I put 2 gallons in and stopped, because I am waiting on two barbed unions to arrive to complete the coolant system (small lines to the degas bottle). They should be here any minute.

That is about it. Hopefully I find no leaks of any sort of fluid, and no metal to metal contact creating false knock or anything. I feel confident that everything is 100% but you know how it is on a project of this magnitude to begin having doubts or thoughts that you possibly missed something.

A few more pics to share.

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20260104_170832.webp


Back to work tomorrow. Was a good long weekend. Happy New Years to all.
 

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80FoxCoupe

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@eisenhauer01 the fleet style green belts are designed to stretch. The opposite of what you want for a blower drive belt. Anything but green.
 
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eisenhauer01

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@eisenhauer01 the fleet style green belts are designed to stretch. The opposite of what you want for a blower drive belt. Anything but green.
That's really strange, I could have sworn I read in multiple places here that most were running the gates green belts on their setups like mine.
I bought the kit used and the belt was one thing that didn't come with it.
I'll look into this more, thanks for the info.
@beefcake any input on this?
 

beefcake

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we voice ran. The Greenbelt was pretty good luck.

It’s all personal preference though
 

80FoxCoupe

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That's really strange, I could have sworn I read in multiple places here that most were running the gates green belts on their setups like mine.
I bought the kit used and the belt was one thing that didn't come with it.
I'll look into this more, thanks for the info.
@beefcake any input on this?
Just because people run it doesn't mean its the belt to run. You can run whatever you prefer. Gates had a video out there describing all thier belts, the green belt is designed to stretch, a design feature to increase life in fleet vehicles. Do you want your blower belt to stretch? No. You don't.
 

robvas

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I remember the belt threads in the old days...

green vs rpm, dayco, Goodyear vs continental

stretching, breaking, squeaking....
 

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eisenhauer01

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Final update.
Car is running really great and everything is looking really good mechanically. No leaks, great oil pressure, etc.. so I can't complain.

Have done some logs for Wengerd and he is seeing some fueling issues.
So I'm in the process of installing a fuel pressure gauge on the car.
Going to do it right and output the analog signal to a HP prolink+ so it can be captured in the datalogs as well when my RTD4 is connected and I'm logging.
Also going to install a boost gauge because why not. I'm replacing the two factory performance pack gauges.
Anyways, that's a wrap.
 
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eisenhauer01

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Great work sir! Thanks for walking us through the process with you.
I had no plans of removing the engine over the winter whatsoever. But I'm glad I did. It is nice to know that it is bone dry and everything is clean, fresh, and ready for the business.
Good luck with your turbo build! I'll be following along that one. Thanks for your no-nonsense contribution to the forum.
 

DougS550

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strange it would come dry. i see no need to pull it apart to lube it up. Just pour oil into it and turn it By hand.
Yep, that's what I did, no issues
 

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Because people make mistakes.. even the experts. I see it every day. You can put your opg in dry, and we can agree to disagree. I'm not installing them dry. Basic mechanics say it's not a good idea. Came here looking for others opinions. Thanks for yours, it was very helpful.
Bam!
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