Oil Pump Question

[fiveoboy01]

Yea this is a pretty stupid post. Why buy things from people you don't trust to manufacture their product?

It's far from stupid. I can't think of too many metal-on-metal moving parts in engines that are assembled dry, much less started up that way.

I don't know if the gears are coated, with anything, or what the specific metallurgy is, not my area of expertise, but I don't see the need to take any chances.

At the least I'd oil those parts before assembly, one step further would be assembly lube.

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[NGOT8R]

It's far from stupid. I can't think of too many metal-on-metal moving parts in engines that are assembled dry, much less started up that way.

I don't know if the gears are coated, with anything, or what the specific metallurgy is, not my area of expertise, but I don't see the need to take any chances.

At the least I'd oil those parts before assembly, one step further would be assembly lube.

That’s what I’ll be doing. I want assembly lube instead of oil on mine because it will stay in place until startup, whereas oil will drain or wick away after a period of time , especially if it’s a while before I do the startup.

 

[eisenhauer01]

Yeah I made sure that everything was well lubed before installing it, and this afternoon I'm planning on priming the engine with oil via the oil pressure sensor port.
I'll be using a small pump sprayer to do this.
Made a little progress on Wednesday morning before we began all of the Christmas activities.

Main bracket and head unit are on, as is the intercooler.
Funny story... I actually forgot to install the upper plastic tray (that goes under the upper radiator support) so I had to remove those angled support bars (PP thing) to install it.

Began to mock install the cac piping and figure out what needs to be bent / modified for clearance purposes (Paxton install thing). So far this side is pretty tight. It's touching the washer fluid reservoir in two places (top and bottom) and also the AC sensor.
I need to bend the AC line for clearance and pull the tubes out of the rubber sleeves a little bit (currently seated full depth) to extend the length of the assembled pipe.

That's a far as I've made it. Hoping to make some more progress today. Can't really button up the tubes and tighten things up yet, because I'm waiting on my new Ultimate Headers to arrive, which will require the engine to be lifted some (to remove motor mounts) so hard piping will need removed. But at least I can have some of it finished up.

 

[NGOT8R]

What exhaust are you installing with the Ultimate Headers? I just pulled all of mine a week and a half ago.

If you have a thread chaser, it would’ve a good idea to chase all header bolt holes and spray them with brake and parts cleaner. That’s what I did and it allowed me to screw each bolt in by hand until seated against the header flange. I also used anti seize on all bolts as well.

 

[NGOT8R]

Can you use a heat gun to carefully reshape the washer fluid reservoir for clearance? That might be easier than reworking the piping, unless you have really good fabrication skills and a welder to make easy work of it.

 

[eisenhauer01]

I did clean the exhaust holes in the heads when I had it on the engine stand, so it's ready.
I have a borla touring system, took me a lot of trial and error to find what I was looking for sound wise with the LTH's, but this system is it. Sorry for the disaster..

And I wasn't saying I would need to rework the actual cac pipes, but I thought I would need to bend the ac line a little bit. I just did get it all fitted up nicely. It was a combination of some slight bending and really you have to put the clamps at the end of the rubber sleeves to get as much length out of the components as possible. Longer silicone sleeves would have made it a little easier, but it wasn't too bad. Now just waiting on my headers.

I put some sticky back fabric on the corner of my washer fluid reservoir where the pipe was very close and actually ran a zip tie around it to lock it down nicely.

 

[fiveoboy01]

Yeah I made sure that everything was well lubed before installing it, and this afternoon I'm planning on priming the engine with oil via the oil pressure sensor port.
I'll be using a small pump sprayer to do this.
Made a little progress on Wednesday morning before we began all of the Christmas activities.

Main bracket and head unit are on, as is the intercooler.
Funny story... I actually forgot to install the upper plastic tray (that goes under the upper radiator support) so I had to remove those angled support bars (PP thing) to install it.

Began to mock install the cac piping and figure out what needs to be bent / modified for clearance purposes (Paxton install thing). So far this side is pretty tight. It's touching the washer fluid reservoir in two places (top and bottom) and also the AC sensor.
I need to bend the AC line for clearance and pull the tubes out of the rubber sleeves a little bit (currently seated full depth) to extend the length of the assembled pipe.

That's a far as I've made it. Hoping to make some more progress today. Can't really button up the tubes and tighten things up yet, because I'm waiting on my new Ultimate Headers to arrive, which will require the engine to be lifted some (to remove motor mounts) so hard piping will need removed. But at least I can have some of it finished up.

Same as my setup. I found the piping to be snug too but I have so far not have had any rubbing problems over about 9K miles.

I see the blow off flange is naked, what are you using?

 

[robvas]

And I wasn't saying I would need to rework the actual cac pipes, but I thought I would need to bend the ac line a little bit. I just did get it all fitted up nicely. It was a combination of some slight bending and really you have to put the clamps at the end of the rubber sleeves to get as much length out of the components as possible. Longer silicone sleeves would have made it a little easier, but it wasn't too bad. Now just waiting on my headers.

My $0.02

get some longer silicone couplers

I do not miss fighting with clamps etc on intercooler piping

 

[eisenhauer01]

Same as my setup. I found the piping to be snug too but I have so far not have had any rubbing problems over about 9K miles.

I see the blow off flange is naked, what are you using?

It's the vortech maxflow bv57 that comes with the upgraded @beefcake kit

 

[fiveoboy01]

It's the vortech maxflow bv57 that comes with the upgraded @beefcake kit

It’s a shame they hide it in the bumper.

 

[eisenhauer01]

Agreed

 

[eisenhauer01]

Worked on fitting the CAC pipes some more, and things are lining up pretty good now. Just took a little patience.

Then I went ahead and installed the UPR Dual Inlet Breather

Didn't get get any pictures, but I primed the engine with oil via the oil pressure sending unit port (1/4 NPT). It worked awesome and I could hear moving through the engine and coming out in the valvetrain under the cam covers.

Then I changed the oil on the Paxton (I bought it used from @Dyimon08) and routed the drain line. Modified the plastic tray to include a small notch for the drain line to come through.

After that, I spent a few hours studying the coolant system, and the vacuum system to figure out exactly how I was going to route those systems, and what I needed to do so.
I have a ported 18+ IM, so I already bought the 18+ purge valve and connecting hose for that part.. I am capping the PCV port on the manifold (don't need), and I bought 90deg J2044 quick connect fittings to cleanly hook up to the other two remaining ports on the IM.
One will be for the brake booster (with an additional check valve in line for security).
The other will be for the BOV signal.
Ordered some silicone vacuum hose and coolant hose and some other fittings.
Really, just waiting on my headers at this point.

 

[eisenhauer01]

Didn't want to sit around waiting on the headers today, so I went ahead and installed the 18 intake manifold, and a few coolant hoses

Followed up by the fuel rail, 2020+ GT500 Injectors, 18+ purge valve and connecting hose

Then I installed the throttle body, and extended the purge valve circuit and replaced the connector with the new 18+.
I am really happy with how clean this ended up being

Then UPS came, and dropped off the new battery & custom tray I bought from @AcceptableNebula so I put it together and am real impressed. It is a nice assembly and it is pretty nuts how light it is.

I am at a stopping point now.
There is nothing really else I can do until the headers make it here.
Hopefully these pictures help someone someday.
I know I search this forum looking for pictures like this sometimes.

 

[NGOT8R]

Let’s see that battery tray installed.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

@eisenhauer01 cast or billet impeller on the 2200sl?

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