wtb6mtv8rwd
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As been said, add negative camber and wider/stickier tires.
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Square wheel/tire setup will help too. These cars are heavy, especially up front and poor camber curve there also. It needs at least 275 or 285 wide and -2ish camber to turn and grip. Square up the tires and do the alignment and watch your understeer go away I bet.As been said, add negative camber and wider/stickier tires.
For road manners maybe, but not for performance unless you prefer a more lazy turn in response. I've tried a few interations of slight toe-in and always preferred it at zero, personally. It can make the steering more twitchy but that's easily solved by an adjustment - avoiding making too many frequent corrections. It's personal preference really.^ No smidge of toe in up front?
I can't speak to the toe in. But I am basically running that alignment now. Spring rates similar to GT350R (BMR handling springs, Ford Performance dampers). I'm not running quite as much toe as they are calling for, but it feels great..Don't mean to hijack OP's thread. I'm getting an alignment tomorrow on mine.
Main goal beyond handling and grip (which the PP2 has plenty of) would be reasonable tire wear. I do a fair bit of mountain carving and as delivered the tires have been wearing more on the outside. The car doesn't have enough camber stock.
On previous relatively heavy front engine rear drive cars (with macpherson struts) I'd go -3, 0 toe front and -2 slight toe in rear. Worked well. I realize alignments aren't one size fit all but I was also looking at the '19 GT350R "track" settings (attached) and noticed it calls for a little toe in up front. Wasn't sure whether to go with that or not on the S550 platform.
I can't speak to the toe in. But I am basically running that alignment now. Spring rates similar to GT350R (BMR handling springs, Ford Performance dampers). I'm not running quite as much toe as they are calling for, but it feels great..
-2.2 front camber, 0.00 toe
Caster 6.9
-1.7 rear camber 0.20 toe.
Works extremely well for back roads at higher commitment levels.
this is crucial, with no background being explained that the right answer. As for my back ground I havenāt done anything with my GT yet, however my old STās have been around Road Atlanta, AMP, and VIR with a couple BMW experiences at RA with instructors. Basic car dynamics I know ok. My understeer incident this past weekend could have been much worse with someone inexperienced and panicking. The turn was a decreasing radius, I went in with a little trail braking easing off the brakes as I entered the sharper section, and the car plowed. At that point target fixation could easily occur, or standing on the brakes which would have resulted in a cliff face. Instead I gently gave some throttle to transfer weight off the nose and get the car to rotate some. The guys behind me said it just looked like the rear came out mid corner. They didnāt know what actually was happening.Y'all coming in with the mechanical changes....
90% of the time its driver mod. Don't brake too late into the corner or it will plow. Need to be letting off the braking just as or just before you're adding steering or you'll overload the front outside tire. Adding MORE steering after that just causes it to wash out more.
Ya, I was thinking the same thing. Unless the pace was really at the limit and your buddies are legitimately fast drivers, it's mostly a matter of user error.Y'all coming in with the mechanical changes....
90% of the time its driver mod. Don't brake too late into the corner or it will plow. Need to be letting off the braking just as or just before you're adding steering or you'll overload the front outside tire. Adding MORE steering after that just causes it to wash out more.
I drive my PP GT on mountain roads with a few friends that drive Evo X cars so to be able to drive with there pace is a challange however at the moment my car is neutral in balance so no Understeer or Oversteer of any kind. How I get that: Strut tower brace (not available in europe), Steeda front swaybar on full soft, Steeda Camber Plates and an agressive allignment (this made the most difference) -1.4 camber all around 0.20 toe in front and -0.20 toe out rear (this helped the rear to stop stepping out).this is crucial, with no background being explained that the right answer. As for my back ground I havenāt done anything with my GT yet, however my old STās have been around Road Atlanta, AMP, and VIR with a couple BMW experiences at RA with instructors. Basic car dynamics I know ok. My understeer incident this past weekend could have been much worse with someone inexperienced and panicking. The turn was a decreasing radius, I went in with a little trail braking easing off the brakes as I entered the sharper section, and the car plowed. At that point target fixation could easily occur, or standing on the brakes which would have resulted in a cliff face. Instead I gently gave some throttle to transfer weight off the nose and get the car to rotate some. The guys behind me said it just looked like the rear came out mid corner. They didnāt know what actually was happening.
I definitely donāt discount driver error, first run in a car with 2500 miles, thereās going to be familiarity issues. The guys I went with know the roads very well, I donāt. They claim their cars are ādialedā and maybe they are, or maybe theyāre just dumb for trying to push that hard on public roads, you decide.To put it more simply - if the car does something that surprises you, thats a driver training or familiarity issue.
If the car consistently does something that you donāt like, that could be car setup issue (or also still could also be a driver habit, it depends)
I'm saving your post to read up further on what the things you are saying mean at a later point.I drive my PP GT on mountain roads with a few friends that drive Evo X cars so to be able to drive with there pace is a challange however at the moment my car is neutral in balance so no Understeer or Oversteer of any kind. How I get that: Strut tower brace (not available in europe), Steeda front swaybar on full soft, Steeda Camber Plates and an agressive allignment (this made the most difference) -1.4 camber all around 0.20 toe in front and -0.20 toe out rear (this helped the rear to stop stepping out).
With this on my last mountain pass drive my car was on the tail of the Evo X's and was super fast and fun to drive.