now, lets talk oil!

[Nataphen]

Cold start wear is minimized by thinner winter weights like 0W and 5W. The advantages of running a 10W instead of a 5W is that the oil won't shear down as quickly after some mileage. I personally run a 10W in my stuff in the summer when it's always going to be 90°+. Once we start getting weather consistently under the 90s, I switch to a 5W.

At 104°F (40°C), a 10W is almost as thin as a 5W. So, you're getting similar cold start up protection with a little more shear resistance when using a 10W in hot climates. Like I said, oils aren't necessarily "one size fits all". It's better to adjust the weights depending on uses and climates. If you don't want to think about it, just run the recommended weight and forget about it.

Case in point, 2013-14 5.0 GTs WITHOUT a track pack had a 5W-20 recommendation. The ones WITH a track pack had a 5W-50 recommendation. The motor was exactly the same. Ford recommended a 5W-50 on the track packs for extra protection on track days because they expected people to do that more often in track pack cars.

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[mustang_guy]

I'm loving the discussion in this thread so far. I live in Cali where my area has never dipped below 25F in the past ~60 years. Would it be safe for one in never-freezing conditions to use a ~10W oil to help with engine wear on start ups? I can't imagine me ever needing anything less than that unless I am travelling into/through snow and cold conditions. The car would probably never be tracked or be in high-performance events, so with that being said, would a 10W40 be a good choice for my situation or what would you or others recommend?

I gave my recommended weights. If the car is still being driven hard on the streets 0w40 or 5w40 is good. 5w40 is better if someone plans to hit hpde events as well, unless they can drive like the stig then 5w50 is good for them. 5w50 is not ideal for the street unless.

 

[mustang_guy]

Cold start wear is minimized by thinner winter weights like 0W and 5W. The advantages of running a 10W instead of a 5W is that the oil won't shear down as quickly after some mileage. I personally run a 10W in my stuff in the summer when it's always going to be 90°+. Once we start getting weather consistently under the 90s, I switch to a 5W.

At 104°F (40°C), a 10W is almost as thin as a 5W. So, you're getting similar cold start up protection with a little more shear resistance when using a 10W in hot climates. Like I said, oils aren't necessarily "one size fits all". It's better to adjust the weights depending on uses and climates. If you don't want to think about it, just run the recommended weight and forget about it.

Case in point, 2013-14 5.0 GTs WITHOUT a track pack had a 5W-20 recommendation. The ones WITH a track pack had a 5W-50 recommendation. The motor was exactly the same. Ford recommended a 5W-50 on the track packs for extra protection on track days because they expected people to do that more often in track pack cars.

I do agree 10w can be good for hotter then typical climates.

 

[Voodooo]

Im a very firm believer of amsoil products, I'm in no way promoting them, but I've built many engines over the years and doing many tear downs and cylinder, piston, bearing and journal checks I myself have had a great experience with amsoil. If you are serious about protecting your engine you may want to consider a oil accumulator. Especially if your going to track your car. Although the voodoo holds 10 quarts of oil, has a baffled oil pan and windage tray the oil will and does still move around. If the pickup tube were to "ever" suck up air it could be the beginning of the end. An oil accumulator would help prevent this and also prevent dry starts. They are easy to install and easy to use. It's worth it's weight in gold really.

 

[Nataphen]

Accumulators are a great idea. I was very close to installing one on my last Mustang. Getting the oil pressure up before starting the car is a no brainer. The added benefit of keeping oil pressure up in the case of a starvation is icing on the cake too.

 

[Shift]

Thanks for the info so far guys.

Im a very firm believer of amsoil products, I'm in no way promoting them, but I've built many engines over the years and doing many tear downs and cylinder, piston, bearing and journal checks I myself have had a great experience with amsoil. If you are serious about protecting your engine you may want to consider a oil accumulator. Especially if your going to track your car. Although the voodoo holds 10 quarts of oil, has a baffled oil pan and windage tray the oil will and does still move around. If the pickup tube were to "ever" suck up air it could be the beginning of the end. An oil accumulator would help prevent this and also prevent dry starts. They are easy to install and easy to use. It's worth it's weight in gold really.

I've heard about Amsoil products for years but haven't tried it yet. I will definitely be using them for the GT350 though as I want it to last forever, so it'll be worth the extra cost. First time hearing about the oil accumulator, just watched a video on it. That's so damn cool! I think I'll have to add it to my very modest list of mods for the car.

 

[Voodooo]

Thanks for the info so far guys.



I've heard about Amsoil products for years but haven't tried it yet. I will definitely be using them for the GT350 though as I want it to last forever, so it'll be worth the extra cost. First time hearing about the oil accumulator, just watched a video on it. That's so damn cool! I think I'll have to add it to my very modest list of mods for the car.

Cheap and easy. Canton "accusump" makes a very nice one. I recommend them. Moroso also makes a good one. I have a accusump to install once I get time. Don't waste your money on amsoil filters. Stick with the motorcraft or use a wix. Amsoils filters are rebadged Hastings.

 

[Nataphen]

If you're serious about getting an accumulator, contact Master Lube. Here's their website, but it's best to just call and talk to the owner. He's very knowledgeable and committed to customer satisfaction. They are more expensive I believe, but they run good sales from time to time.

http://www.masterlube.net/

 

[Hack]

I gave my recommended weights. If the car is still being driven hard on the streets 0w40 or 5w40 is good. 5w40 is better if someone plans to hit hpde events as well, unless they can drive like the stig then 5w50 is good for them. 5w50 is not ideal for the street unless.

I do agree 10w can be good for hotter then typical climates.

When the car companies initially went from 10w down to 5w and 0w, it was solely for fuel economy. It didn't have anything to do with cold temperatures.

 

[mustang_guy]

When the car companies initially went from 10w down to 5w and 0w, it was solely for fuel economy. It didn't have anything to do with cold temperatures.

I never said what it had to do with. Im aware what the different oil weights are for. My oil education is great. Why you're trying to educate me when you think 5w50 is a good weight for street driving is beyond me.

 

[Hack]

I never said what it had to do with. Im aware what the different oil weights are for. My oil education is great. Why you're trying to educate me when you think 5w50 is a good weight for street driving is beyond me.

I think it's the weight Ford recommends for the Voodoo engine and I do trust their engineers. They know a lot more than I do. I have no idea what the bearing clearances are, what size openings are in the oiling passages in the different components throughout the engine, how exactly the oil pump is designed and manufactured, how oil splash moves in the engine to lube various parts... I really only know very basic information about the Voodoo, whereas Ford's engineers know every detail and have test data from many different temperatures, loads, etc. along I'm sure with tear down and extensive examination of the parts after many hours running under high loads and adverse conditions.

I'm really not trying to be a know-it-all here. Just putting my thoughts out there so others can make up their own minds. There's a lot of misinformation out on the ole interwebs.

 

[Hughespj47]

Hack is right. Ford knows more about this engine than anyone. Many of the above comments make sense, but when your engine blows and you ask for warranty coverage, you better have proof of meeting oil/filter specs.

I'll use their filter or an aftermarket filter that specifically meets specs for the GT350. Same with the oil: 5W-50 that meets Ford specs.

I like the idea of a pre-oiler and will look into it.

 

[mustang_guy]

You dont need to be an engineer to understand oil weights. This is comical. This reminds me of all the uneducated boss owners that couldnt fathom running other oil weights without hurting their engines.

 

[Trackaholic]

You dont need to be an engineer to understand oil weights. This is comical. This reminds me of all the uneducated boss owners that couldnt fathom running other oil weights without hurting their engines.

Understanding weights is one thing. Understanding WHY certain weights are recommended for this engine is another.

My take is that Ford put out a recommendation based on how they expected the car to be used. If using alternate weights was critical, they would have provided that info. I'm sure there are plenty of other weights that will work, depending on temperature range, application, oil change interval, etc.

I know my 350Z did have different recommendations based on typical ambient temperature ranges. I currently use Mobil 1 10W-30 and have had good success (car now has 194,000 miles). I will likely go with Mobil 1 5W-50 for the GT350.

-T

 

[Hack]

You dont need to be an engineer to understand oil weights. This is comical. This reminds me of all the uneducated boss owners that couldnt fathom running other oil weights without hurting their engines.

It may be comical to you, but I'm just a risk averse kind of guy. I understand in theory what you are saying about oil weights, and I agree with some of what you say. I don't think not agreeing with you means someone is uneducated. IMO it means they think for themselves.

Bottom line for me is I don't want to void the warranty. I think Ford's recommendation is going to be good enough. In 3/36,000 or whenever my warranty is up I might start using something different if I still own the car.

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