Next autocross mods…help!

[NightmareMoon]

General guideline would be to keep it ~3/4" lower than OEM and not much if any lower than that. Its not likely you're too stiff, but probably just don't have any travel before you're on the bump stops.

My front springs are 66% stiffer than yours, for example, and I have more front swaybar. Crazy huh? I'm not as low though, so I'm not hitting bump stops.

The difference between a 295 on a 10.5" wheel and a 305 or 315 on a 11" wheel is small. If you have the right tire that won't be a big difference. That said, my fast wheels are 11' front and 12" rear FWIW. I'd fit a 12" front too but cutting would be involved, and I'd have to switch coilover brands.

Don't underestimate shock tuning. If you're full stiff or full soft or just haven't explored your shock settings, they can be a big part of if a car feels too stiff or too soft.

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[Whozyodaddy]

General guideline would be to keep it ~3/4" lower than OEM and not much if any lower than that. Its not likely you're too stiff, but probably just don't have any travel before you're on the bump stops.

My front springs are 66% stiffer than yours, for example, and I have more front swaybar. Crazy huh? I'm not as low though, so I'm not hitting bump stops.

The difference between a 295 on a 10.5" wheel and a 305 or 315 on a 11" wheel is small. If you have the right tire that won't be a big difference. That said, my fast wheels are 11' front and 12" rear FWIW. I'd fit a 12" front too but cutting would be involved, and I'd have to switch coilover brands.

Don't underestimate shock tuning. If you're full stiff or full soft or just haven't explored your shock settings, they can be a big part of if a car feels too stiff or too soft.

Thank you! I’ll play with the coilovers a bit and see what I can figure out.

 

[WItoTX]

As soft as possible, as stiff as necessary is a good rule of thumb. Your coilovers should have come with a dyno sheet and a number of clicks off full stiff or full soft to start. If you don't have that, I'd start in the middle, and then feel what the car is doing.

It's been a couple years, but at nationals, a bone stock FS M1 raw timed the CAMC field. So 90% of it comes down to the driver.

One other thing I'd suggest. Get some seat time in on track. It will completely change your perspective when you go back to an AutoX event. Things start happening much slower at AutoX, and the challenge of AutoX is being on the limit at all times, where as track time, you have breaks between points where you are at the limits of your car. It helps understand where the car needs to be positioned, when it needs to be there, and where you need to be looking.

Finally, go into AutoX events with 2-3 goals. Nothing more, don't want to be solving all problems at one time. Get a good instructor, and tell him/her your goals. He/she will focus feedback on those goals, unless they see something way out of wack.

Report back. I would love to hear the progress made, and places you identify you can learn. AutoX time should be fun, and the problem solving is always the most fun.

 

[SBR70.3]

F that is a beautiful car.


I hope one day I can work up the courage to cut into my fender and hood to install the Race Louvers I bought that are just sitting on a shelf in my garage.

 

[kz]

I hope one day I can work up the courage to cut into my fender and hood to install the Race Louvers I bought that are just sitting on a shelf in my garage.

Look for another hood. I bought one off marketplace for $100 with slight damage, it was black so color neutral.

 

[SBR70.3]

Look for another hood. I bought one off marketplace for $100 with slight damage, it was black so color neutral.

Good idea. That is what I did with my GTI. It's really the fenders that get me. But the pic of his Shelby certainly motivates me.

 

[mavisky]

F that is a beautiful car.


I hope one day I can work up the courage to cut into my fender and hood to install the Race Louvers I bought that are just sitting on a shelf in my garage.

Thank you. Luckily I'd had previous experience cutting hoods so wasn't as nervous this time around.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

No current alignment data. The last one was a very generic street alignment at a tire shop for my daily driver wheel set. Looking for a good alignment shop locally currently. The car isn’t a dedicated track car, but I know I need a more aggressive alignment.

Thanks again!

Yeah, so this is a huge issue by itself. Not having specific alignment specs or a recent alignment check. The very first thing you need to do is get a good alignment. People can suggest all sorts of hard part modifications or tuning of dampers, but it won't matter if the fundamentals aren't right. Besides being not optimal it's possible your alignment has slipped. Imagine if your rear toe is out-the car will have issues power on no matter what and if you try to tune around that you'll create other issues. Start with the fundamentals: good mechanical condition in suspension no torn bushings or loose bearings or sloppy joints, a good alignment, and good tires. Otherwise it's like calling up a tuner to make changes to your coyote when it has an unresolved misfire or vacuum leak.

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