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New headers before supercharging?

Wolvee

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For the Mac Cat delete guys, are there any drivers side header available that is just just a bolt on to the Mac Pipe or is this a weld only solution?
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I've been considering the same thing and overall the factory headers/cats are decent and not restrictive enough to warrant changing them unless you're aiming for 800+ bhp. You're looking at $2k to do it right, spend that money on tires instead.
Thanks for the advice - although your 2016 GT with a "performance package" may have better factory headers than my 2015 "standard" GT. Either way, upper 700s would be fine with me. :-)
 

aleccolin

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There's no difference in the headers, the PP is just brakes, 3.73 Torsen, and some suspension bits - the engine and trans are the same.
 

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There's no difference in the headers, the PP is just brakes, 3.73 Torsen, and some suspension bits - the engine and trans are the same.
And GT350 radiator
 

TheHydro

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For the Mac Cat delete guys, are there any drivers side header available that is just just a bolt on to the Mac Pipe or is this a weld only solution?
I did Mak’s not because they were cheaper but it is easier to go back to stock cats when necessary. I installed a 2014 driver side header and had the Mak pipe flange welded to match the 2014 manifold angle. Worked out a lot better for me than cutting the stock cats off and welding the flange to the 2015 manifold.
 

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bluebeastsrt

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90% of people dont have the time, the knowledge, or the space to install something as complicated as headers, boosts, opg's realistically. Assume OP has to take it a shop, install will run him 500 at the minimum. And $550-700 will get you a set of ebay headers, not kooks, arh, stainless works etc
If he wants a reliable 650rwhp daily and is not trying to reach the 900 wheel mark, there is nothing wrong with the cat deletes and by no means would it be considered "cheaping out". Regardless the cat deletes have been proven by companies like procharger to be fine for your typical boosted mustang (not someone who eventually wants to go balls to the wall).
Ok so your trying to tell me. Of all the people replying in this thread. I’m the only one with the basic mechanical ability to bolt on a set of headers? Anybody else replying to this thread work on their own cars beside me? If 90% of people can’t bolt on headers. I doubt they have the skills to weld in cat deletes. You can spend two grand on a set of kooks. Or you can spend $550-700 on a set of BBKs or stainless power header. And they do the exact same job! Check LMR or Beefcakes sight if you don’t believe me on the cost. No need to shop EBay. If you want to leave horsepower on the table. That’s your prerogative. OP I find most people that go the boosted route. Aren’t happy with 600-650hp for long. Everybody says I just want a 650 daily. Until they figure out how easy it is to make 800! I recommend playing the long game.
 

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I was in the same boat yesterday. When I saw what cat deletes look like after some use (Rust), and the $775 price on Stainless Works headers at Lethal Performance, I went with the headers. Resale valve was a factor as well if/when I decide to go turbo.
 

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Ok so your trying to tell me. Of all the people replying in this thread. I’m the only one with the basic mechanical ability to bolt on a set of headers? Anybody else replying to this thread work on their own cars beside me? If 90% of people can’t bolt on headers. I doubt they have the skills to weld in cat deletes. You can spend two grand on a set of kooks. Or you can spend $550-700 on a set of BBKs or stainless power header. And they do the exact same job! Check LMR or Beefcakes sight if you don’t believe me on the cost. No need to shop EBay. If you want to leave horsepower on the table. That’s your prerogative. OP I find most people that go the boosted route. Aren’t happy with 600-650hp for long. Everybody says I just want a 650 daily. Until they figure out how easy it is to make 800! I recommend playing the long game.
The only reason to not get headers and remove your cats is if you're trying to save warranty. He is way past that. It's time to get fun with it but also upgrade or remove anything that could cause bigger problems down the road. Catless headers is the obvious choice. Like you said... check out beefcake and I'm sure they can put together a nice inexpensive package.

Edit: Looking at beefcakes site they do have a very cheap stainless BBK long tube and mid pipe catless combo for like $1000. Not a bad option
 
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crcpdx

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The only reason to not get headers and remove your cats is if you're trying to save warranty. He is way past that. It's time to get fun with it but also upgrade or remove anything that could cause bigger problems down the road. Catless headers is the obvious choice. Like you said... check out beefcake and I'm sure they can put together a nice inexpensive package.

Edit: Looking at beefcakes site they do have a very cheap stainless BBK long tube and mid pipe catless combo for like $1000. Not a bad option
No, the reason we go cat deletes is so we can bolt up the cats come emissions time. Stock headers flow well, the cat is the main restriction. I take Those HP numbers with a grain of salt. It's like saying you gain 25hp with a tune required cold air intake. Sure but 20 of those are from the tune. I've done all my own work, and headers look like about 10hrs of knuckle busting hell.... For 5hp? No thanks. If your are looking North of 850hp sure go ahead, should pull the motor anyway at that point.
 

CompOrangeFanatic

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I picked up a set of Stainless Power catless longtubes for sale at BeefCake Racing a couple weeks ago for $785. That's a good deal and they're quality headers that a lot of people are running. I also picked up a pair of G-Sport Gesi ultra high-output green cats that I'll be installing with the SP LT's. So for less than $1500, I'll have a set of green catted headers for a lot less than the Kooks green catted headers.
 

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No, the reason we go cat deletes is so we can bolt up the cats come emissions time. Stock headers flow well, the cat is the main restriction. I take Those HP numbers with a grain of salt. It's like saying you gain 25hp with a tune required cold air intake. Sure but 20 of those are from the tune. I've done all my own work, and headers look like about 10hrs of knuckle busting hell.... For 5hp? No thanks. If your are looking North of 850hp sure go ahead, should pull the motor anyway at that point.
We don’t have emission tests here. I forgot about that.. good point. Removing the cats would be my primary. I know multiple 18+ Roush guys who have had to get theirs replaced already. Mainly because those are usually the guys keeping theirs for warranty purposes.
 

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No, the reason we go cat deletes is so we can bolt up the cats come emissions time. Stock headers flow well, the cat is the main restriction. I take Those HP numbers with a grain of salt. It's like saying you gain 25hp with a tune required cold air intake. Sure but 20 of those are from the tune. I've done all my own work, and headers look like about 10hrs of knuckle busting hell.... For 5hp? No thanks. If your are looking North of 850hp sure go ahead, should pull the motor anyway at that point.
4 hours, but you got the knuckle busting hell part right.
 

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bluebeastsrt

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Lol, you haven't watched me work. I'll turn that into a 10hr job no problem
I tip my hat to anyone that’s willing do the job.:like:
 

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Do you like the way your exhaust sounds now? That's the boat I'm in. I have Borla cat backs. I like the way it sounds and sure headers will give me more power but I'm already somewhere in the 700-800 range which is plenty (for me right now).
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