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Sorry buddy, EPA shut that option down

Saw one on eBay last week. They don't list them as iron chunk, most don't even know the difference. Look for the rusted housing. The one I saw they tried to clean it up, but it's still orange.

So reading through this, I just wanted to clarify on the 18-21 cars the brace will not fit unless you lower the motor. Spacers or shaving the brace will not work since the gen 3 hood is too low.

Only problem with that is you throw handling out the window. I'm trying to find something that handles very well and provides at least some straight line traction. I have 325/30/19 4s on the back now and they take corners well, but straight line is terrible. Blew the tires off at 121mph.

5.9 60-130 9.86 at 142 1/4 2.7 0-60 On E 85 though On pump I ran a 10.14 at 139, but didn't draggy any runs

Haha, people who quote crank hp don't win a lot races

? I always order from Lethal or Beefcake. Better price and let them run down issues like this.

When I had that issue, Rob told me to do a trans relearn and go give it hell for about an hour. Problem solved

So for the iat, just tape to the firewall. You don't need that plug/sensor anymore. I never had the WHIPPLE tune, but on my install I want to say there were three plugs that didn't go anywhere. 1 was the stock sensor.

Don't know why yours poke, when I have the same fronts and bigger rears with no poke. What are your offsets?

Not as familiar with the nitto. Generally you have to give up one for the other. The better the straight line traction, the worse lateral traction. Str line trac likes a soft sidewall, cornering, stiff sidewall. Anything over 700 wheel and you need a dedicated drag to tire. Ie mickey, hoosier...

Are you running a spacer up front? I have the same front wheels on 285 and they are still inset a hair. In back I'm running 11.5 wheel on 325 with +56 offset.

To answer your question, I have heard the f14 beadlocks are a very good value for the money. I know a couple of guys who wore the D5 on the street and it worked fine

In that case, I'd have a street set of wheels, whatever looks nice, in a 19 and buy a drag set up for the track in a 17 and put skinnies and drag radials on the those. Personally I don't like driving drag radials on the street. They handle crap and R888 are not going to hold at the track

You really don't need Blocks for the street. You will never get enough traction to rotate the tire on the wheel.

They aren't that bad, lol. Taken them on and off is a huge PITA though. I swear their engineers had a meeting to come up with ways to annoy us. Let's start with a crappy plastic hub centric ring, then let's provide washers bent just enough so they only go on one way but not enough to tell. Hmm...

No I'm talking about the actual metal bar. I don't want the weight at the track

Is it ok to remove the front crash bar? Does it support the bumper in anyway?

305/45/17 at this power. 315/50/17 if you turn it up

I have heard about stage 2 melting cats, but not stage 1. It's been awhile since I looked, Whipple use to have it posted on their website