N/A performance

[brfdrums]

I have a 2020 premium PP1, all the options...I will be keeping the car N/A but do want to get all it has to offer staying N/A.
It is pretty much a weekend driver, and I do the HPDE as well. I have a feeling that the more I do the more I will be hooked. However, I do still want it as a street car. So far all I've done is MBRP cat back, JLT CaI and a tune. Im curious to what other N/A mods will add performance and be worth the money spent. I'm not interest in throwing money at it and no real gains. Like LTH, I really don't think the HP gains are worth the money spent.

I like driving the car, corners and such. I'm not a drag out on the hwy fool...

I'm currently putting together a list of all items I want/need to build it out to a nice race car that I can still drive on the street. Safety wise I have seats, harnesses. half cage and possible rear seat delete.

It has magna ride with Steeda 396 S550mag 3/21 on all corners.(came with the car). I do have track brake pads as well.

So, I may have babbled a bit but I hope my question is in there. Add performance parts that are worth the money/time spent and will actually give results in handling, and such. If I should just keep her as is, that's fine, if there are only one or two things, that's fine too. Is all I need some suspension parts...I'm down. Im in no hurry, but I do like to research and plan before spending...winning races is more in the driver than the HP and I'm way more interested in the driver than the HP...



On a side note, when I got the tune , she dynoed at 446hp. I know these may not always be true when the rubber actually meets the road, is there a way to know the actual numbers out in the wild?

Thanks1

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[BullittBoy]

I have a 2020 Bullitt, so it came with the GT350 intake, Throttle Body and air filter set up. I recently added Stainless Works LTH, H pipe and kept the factory active exhaust and then had it tuned by 5Star. I did not get any numbers before the exhaust updates but mine sits at 486Hp and 435 Ft Lbs. LTH and getting rid of the resonator box, along with the intake updates wilkl get you another 40ish Hp. So depends on what you want to spend, but I would do the intake mods (GT350 stuff) and updated tune if you don't want to do LTH.

As far as suspension stuff, since you have updated springs, get the stop the hop kit from Steeda. That really stiffens up the rear and makes it feel more like it is on rails.

 

[robvas]

Like LTH, I really don't think the HP gains are worth the money spent.

Other than an E85 tune, NA mods really aren't worth it if you are looking at $/hp. Headers are a good example.

On a side note, when I got the tune , she dynoed at 446hp. I know these may not always be true when the rubber actually meets the road, is there a way to know the actual numbers out in the wild?

The car makes what it puts down on the dyno. Numbers are going to vary by dyno, btw 446 is on the high side for just a cold air and tune. Like 20hp high.

You can also go to the drag strip, see what your trap speed is, and weigh the car+driver, and get an idea of how much HP you're making.

 

[Zrussian13]

Long tunes would get better gains than your cai. Any guy trying to hit 500hp na is using them.

E85 is by far the best bang for the buck na mod though.

 

[2015 Silver GT]

Longtubes are not a great bang for the buck. Very expensive with very little gains N/A.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

Long Tubes themselves are nice, but if you aren't putting them in yourself, can be expensive.
As far as bolt-ons, I agree, The GT350 parts and E85 will wrap up the N/A power adders.

Every Mustang can use the Steeda 555-4455 Mustang 'Stop the Hop' Starter Kit (15-26), but since you're doing HPDE, you may want to grab an Enthusiast/ Ultimate Kit.

Check out our Steeda 2018 Mustang Q500 HPDE Car | Steeda

If you need help placing and order or have some more question, I can be reached at EXT 2170 and [email protected]!

 

[junits15]

I also would agree to skip the long tube headers. Very expensive and barely noticeable gains.

do e85 that’s your absolute best bet.

 

[NGOT8R]

Long tubes are very pricey to purchase and for labor (unless you do them yourself). They sure sound killer though and would be a great addition if you will be looking to add boost down the road.

Before you pay out both ends, I suggest that you roll through the hood and see if you can find this lady to get a steep discount on installing them.

 

[Swtbabybilly]

Tuned for e85 and put the money in your suspension is the best bang for your buck till thats not enough power then go straight for boost that's what im saving for now, best of luck

 

[brfdrums]

Thanks everyone! I do have a quote for an e85/93 tune(93 for my usual every driving and on trips where e85 isn't readily available) and I am seriously considering it. I also do want LTH even if simply for the sound, but they will be down the road a bit. Right now I think you guys have given me some good places to get started and I can get a plan of action in place.

@Steeda-Sergio I am already in contact with someone there, not sure who but once I go through my research I will certainly get up with you. I can say, the springs on the car have it sitting at a perfect height and she handles really well...so I'll be adding a few components in the future.

 

[junits15]

Thanks everyone! I do have a quote for an e85/93 tune(93 for my usual every driving and on trips where e85 isn't readily available) and I am seriously considering it. I also do want LTH even if simply for the sound, but they will be down the road a bit. Right now I think you guys have given me some good places to get started and I can get a plan of action in place.

@Steeda-Sergio I am already in contact with someone there, not sure who but once I go through my research I will certainly get up with you. I can say, the springs on the car have it sitting at a perfect height and she handles really well...so I'll be adding a few components in the future.

LTH do sound really good, I always felt the stock headers sounded a bit "truck like". Definitely the right choice to put other handing related mods above LTH in terms of bang for buck.

 

[Doug V]

I have a 2020 Bullitt, so it came with the GT350 intake, Throttle Body and air filter set up. I recently added Stainless Works LTH, H pipe and kept the factory active exhaust and then had it tuned by 5Star. I did not get any numbers before the exhaust updates but mine sits at 486Hp and 435 Ft Lbs. LTH and getting rid of the resonator box, along with the intake updates wilkl get you another 40ish Hp. So depends on what you want to spend, but I would do the intake mods (GT350 stuff) and updated tune if you don't want to do LTH.

As far as suspension stuff, since you have updated springs, get the stop the hop kit from Steeda. That really stiffens up the rear and makes it feel more like it is on rails.

Advanced Fuel Dynamics has a ProFlex Commander that allows you to any variation of E85 and gasoline. It will automatically make adjustments to compensate. It is plug & play on a gen 2 Coyote but requires some wiring modifications on a gen 3.

I would like to try it but I'm not sure if I want to modify the harness.

 

[Craig Brown]

I put LTH on my car, doing the install myself, the cost was $1400.00 for Stainless Power 1 7/8" catted set up and coupled with a 2018 intake manifold with lock outs and the cost was $458.00. I did the Auto Mafia performance tune. Also, MBRP cat back race exhaust. Exhaust cost was $585.00 and the tune was $360.00. That comes to $2,803.00. All work was performed by me. This spring I will get it dynode to see what power the car makes. I can already tell that it is a considerable increase from stock. If I could get E85 fuel, I will before the dyno run. This week I will be adding a Calimer stage 2 transmission and a Mcleod twin disc ceramic RXT clutch with aluminum flywheel, Mcleod Hyd line, new piolet bearing, new TOB, new flywheel bolts. The cost of the clutch was $1,330.00 and $66.00 for the bolts and piolet bearing from Ford. The TOB cost was $170.00. The transmission and Hyd line cost was $3,857.00. I do get a $500.00 core for the old transmission and Calimer pays for the return shipping. That will be another $4,923 so if you are keeping track I am at $7,726.00. Oh yeah, this doesn't add any performance, but it is another mod that I did, a DDS one piece aluminum drive shaft. The cost was $770.00, new total is $8,496. I know what you are thinking, why not just supercharge it. LOL. The answer is easy. I didn't want that. Still a N/A car and I should be at or close to 500 RWHP. Not the wrong way just my way.

 

[robvas]

Advanced Fuel Dynamics has a ProFlex Commander that allows you to any variation of E85 and gasoline. It will automatically make adjustments to compensate. It is plug & play on a gen 2 Coyote but requires some wiring modifications on a gen 3.

I would like to try it but I'm not sure if I want to modify the harness.

The question becomes will the car advance timing enough to make performance using this? Will you have to combine it with an aftermarket tune? Does this even make sense to try?

 

[Doug V]

The question becomes will the car advance timing enough to make performance using this? Will you have to combine it with an aftermarket tune? Does this even make sense to try?

I have seen posts that argue both sides, but I feel the engine will respond without a tune. If you have ever run a bottle of 104+ in the tank, you will understand when I am saying IMO, I think Ford tuned these engines on higher octane fuel and the coyote computer's OAR (Octane Adjust Ratio or Advanced Octane Logic) will change advance based on the fuel you are using. Now I am not an expert here but run 104+ octane boost, it runs like it has more power, and throttle response in normal mode give you response like sport or track mode. I based my comment on this experience.

From my understanding of past threads on tunes and OAR, and documentation from the ProFlex Commander, the OAR will advance timing while the ProFlex Commander automatically adjust the fuel flow to compensate.

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