muffler valve not functioning / drive modes not available

[galaxy]

I'm pretty sure Left Hand is drivers side. But someone will chime in shortly with the correct answer I'm sure.

Funny how this gets confusing sometimes. If it moves (boat, airplane, car, truck, what-have-you), EVERYTHING is from the drivers point of view. It matters not which angle you may be looking at said item.

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[WD Pro]

Right side.
UK drivers side.
US passenger side.

Is normally the problematic one

WD

 

[WItoTX]

Funny how this gets confusing sometimes. If it moves (boat, airplane, car, truck, what-have-you), EVERYTHING is from the drivers point of view. It matters not which angle you may be looking at said item.

I don't understand why we can't say drivers side and passengers side. That solves so many problems hahaha. On another car, I ordered a part, and LH was determined by looking at it from the front.

I've also had mechanics use LH and RH backwards, and when I say drivers side, they have to clarify. Prime example. Hey, my passenger side rear brake has fluid coming out the back side of the drum, the axle seal has likely failed and I would like to replace the bearing while you are in there. "Oh, you mean the left side?". No. WTF, I just told you exactly where the leak was.

First world problems.

 

[galaxy]

Right side.
UK drivers side.
US passenger side.



WD

Aaahhh, ya beat me to it! LOL.

 

[MiamiGT350]

My exhaust actuators stick from time to time, and require the exhaust to warm up before everything works fine again. If it's not working after a few minutes of warm-up, I would suspect wiring or a bad actuator.

Most lubricants/oils will burn off due to the heat, so I would recommend against WD-40, etc. I use copper anti-seize spray about once a month, which is good up to 1800 degrees. I purchased extended spray can straws on Amazon which lets me spray everything the moving parts without having to drop the exhaust.

I chase the copper spray with a bit of penetrating oil spray so it works the copper into the moving parts.

 

[lunatect]

My exhaust actuators stick from time to time, and require the exhaust to warm up before everything works fine again. If it's not working after a few minutes of warm-up, I would suspect wiring or a bad actuator.

Most lubricants/oils will burn off due to the heat, so I would recommend against WD-40, etc. I use copper anti-seize spray about once a month, which is good up to 1800 degrees. I purchased extended spray can straws on Amazon which lets me spray everything the moving parts without having to drop the exhaust.

I chase the copper spray with a bit of penetrating oil spray so it works the copper into the moving parts.

My 2016 does that sometimes in cold weather.

 

[WCKD350]

Have you checked the passenger side Active Exhaust harness to see if it has chafing on it? If so, a new harness or repair may be needed.

Hey, I have replaced both AE wire harness and both sides did indeed have burn damage from moving to close. But after both have been replaced with brand new OEM ones it still isn’t working. Do you have another solution i should try. Maybe cleaning out the muffler tips?

 

[WD Pro]

I posted this on another thread, maybe it could help ? :

If you are sure you have got all the mechanical side of things sorted 100%, maybe try this :

WD

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-nightmares.185324/#post-3728407

WD

 

[WCKD350]

I posted this on another thread, maybe it could help ? :



https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-nightmares.185324/#post-3728407

WD

i’m going to try this today

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