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Most Reliable 1500 hp Short Block??

WItoTX

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I'd be planning for a serious roll cage to handle the twist. These chassis are incredibly flexible compared to say the GM Alpha platform (Camaro etc...). On top of the suspension adds and so much other safety stuff.
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illtal

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Im building one right now the first online
I think the reason no one does these is because it costs more than just sleeving an aluminum coyote block Which in many cases after this depending on what you do to make it hold, it can support 2000whp.
 

80FoxCoupe

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I'd be planning for a serious roll cage to handle the twist. These chassis are incredibly flexible compared to say the GM Alpha platform (Camaro etc...). On top of the suspension adds and so much other safety stuff.
That's a good one I like that! Sort of like doing a wheelie over a pop bottle on the street. Grab a $100 off the dash. Them oldie stories are always a good chuckle.
 

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DougS550

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That's gonna be mid 30s and up PSI. The actual levels will be determined by your CR and what two 100lb/min snails you go with. Just by the fact that you will need two big snails will put you beyond 4000k RPMs for response. Which probably means you will need an extended rev range or maybe nitrous to help you at the start. What is your goal? Also 10R80 is not a long lasting transmission at that power level no matter what you do with it. You should look into a different setup.
Thanks for you help. So true on limitations on many parts such as the 10R80 capabilities.
 

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I'd put some good tires on it too.
 

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DougS550

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The Whipple 3.0 taps out about 1100. I would say we’ve maybe seen a little bit more but efficiency starts to drop.

The 3.8 1400 to 15 but again you’re spinning the heck out of it

Typically won’t get customer showing 1500 hp. We normally recommend the turbo or the crank driven supercharger.

my 2011 we were on mid sevens way back in 2015 with a gear driven

They’re definitely options that can make 2000 but I wouldn’t want to be with a billet block for that
Thanks Terry for your reply. Everyone has given great recommendations for me to consider. BUT, I have decided I need to have major surgery on my right shoulder in November just like I did on my left shoulder this past January. And it takes a Solid 6-8 months to fully recover/heal and during that time. So I will now have to factor in how I will upgrade my engine/supercharger etc. However I have decided I will use my OEM block, Upgrade pistons, crank, rods, sleeved, O-Ringed, cryogenically treated etc, have the heads completely upgraded to handle 1500hp (which is close to the Gen3 block capability) but only run it at around 1000whp on the street and maybe push to 1300whp when I take it to the IND Half Mile race or 1/4 mile. I want it built to handle more than I will ever push it to increase reliability as much as can be. I know with the engine being 1108chp its not a matter "IF" but when and how soon or limited use until boom, Boom.
 
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DougS550

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My wallet sure would be happier
O Hell Ya, but as I have learned, Life is short and we all Will die at some point and usually not of our choosing. So I told my kids, when I die, Contact Mecum and have a seller run it through the auction to sell, and never look back. BUT, I did tell them not to drive the car at all unless one of them wants to have it demodded to a more reasonable HP leave so they don't kill themselves while daily driving it.
 
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DougS550

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I'd be planning for a serious roll cage to handle the twist. These chassis are incredibly flexible compared to say the GM Alpha platform (Camaro etc...). On top of the suspension adds and so much other safety stuff.
I agree on the roll cage but, I sure don't want to drill, or mod my interior (Which is a conundrum to say the least). If I cannot make it fun/enjoyable to drive on the street and at the track, I will just reduce the boost and enjoy at that level. But, I know at my current HP and future HP one crash has a high probability of death unless I upgrade interior body protection. I don't drive stupid, I have had to many friends end up 6 feet under from their carelessness or lack of attention to safety. One thing in life you need to remember is, Not all "O-SHITS" Or WOW that was close are survivable.
 
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DougS550

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That's gonna be mid 30s and up PSI. The actual levels will be determined by your CR and what two 100lb/min snails you go with. Just by the fact that you will need two big snails will put you beyond 4000k RPMs for response. Which probably means you will need an extended rev range or maybe nitrous to help you at the start. What is your goal? Also 10R80 is not a long lasting transmission at that power level no matter what you do with it. You should look into a different setup.
Thank you for your help. I have decided I would have to many areas I would need to beef up which for me, would make it not as fun to drive on the street. So I will Build my OEM block to handle around 1500hp and run it at a safe level like 1000 street and 1300 at the INDY half mile or drag strip. I don't mind buying an extra set of wheels for the track to handle the higher numbers as long as I can switch back to my two piece forged wheels.
 
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DougS550

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If you want 100% reliability at that level I'd look into a cast iron block.

It won't be a 100,000 mile engine no matter what parts you use unless you never use the power.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6010-M50X
That is true but I have decided I will build my OEM block, heads etc and keep it below 1500hp. I told myself before I bought the car, I will mod everything BUT, Not to a point to where it is not as enjoyable to drive at any given time.
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