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MGW Shifter Install

ChipG

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Hi all,

A few weeks ago, I installed my MGW shifter. First off, the MGW installation video (here) is excellent - if you're going to install their shifter, watch it, and follow it! I took photos anyway, but since the video is out there, I took fewer and my write-up will be leaner.

First fun step is getting the knob off. I struggled with it, as many do - I was initially able to get it moved maybe an eighth of a turn by hand, then nothing. I tried a strap wrench around a towel without luck. Then, I found and followed the advice from Auto Fanatic. I used a heat gun to heat the knob and was then able to remove the knob by hand. It still took effort and grip (I used mechanic's gloves) but it worked. If you're trying to get your shift knob off, I highly recommend this - I assume the heat breaks down the red loctite. Twisting off by hand should avoid any damage.

Here's the knob removed:
Knob Removed.jpg


You can see the red loctite on the handle and inside the knob.

Knob Loctite.jpg


I did have some minor damage to the knob from my attempts with the strap wrench - I wish I had used heat earlier!

Knob Damage.jpg


Ok, with knob removed, time to pull the console. First, removal of the side panels. One note is that they have magnets in slots on the inside to hold to the transmission tunnel. In my case, for one panel the magnet stayed behind.

Magnet.jpg

Panel Removed.jpg


No big deal, it just slides back in.

Magnet Replaced.jpg


Now take the console off - mine came off with shifter boot still attached. There are a number of clips, and one of the clips on mine was lost to the inside of the car someplace never to be found again, but there's been no noticeable impact to fit of the replaced console nor any movement or rattling.

Console Removed.jpg


Remove the shifter boot from the console. The blue clips you can see below are the ones I referred to earlier - one of which is apparently gone forever like a lost sock in the dryer.

Boot Removed.jpg


With this out of the way, remove the dust boot and sound padding.

Dust Boot Removed.jpg


Remove the reverse lockout.

Reverse Lockout Removed.jpg


and take off the lower boot.

Lower Boot Removed.jpg


Ok, time to get dirty! As my brother hasn't freed up time yet to build my detached garage mahal, I'm stuck doing this in the driveway, so up on jackstands she goes.

Jack Stands.jpg


Get the clip off of the linkage pin.

Linkage Pin.jpg


Remove the linkage pin.

Linkage Pin Removed.jpg


Now remove the rear bracket nuts.

Rear Bracket.jpg


And now it's time to drop the transmission. I don't have a transmission jack, and my floor jack doesn't have quite a long enough throw with the car up on jackstands, so I used press plates from my shop press to make up the difference.

Transmission Jack.jpg


I marked the transmission brace so I could get it back to the same position, and lowered the transmission.

Mark Transmission Brace.jpg


With the transmission lowered, the rear bracket can be removed.

Rear Bracket Removal.jpg


Next is the top arm bolt, which can be awkward to get to. I don't have skinny forearms or slender hands, but was able to get to it by coming at it along the driveshaft from the back rather than up from underneath. Just be ready for some scratches and bruises - typical wrenching damage.

Top Arm Bolt Removal.jpg


Next is removal of the linkage arm bolt.

Linkage Arm Bolt Removed.jpg


Then it's time to disconnect the center shaft so you can fish the stock shifter out in two pieces, one from below and one from above. Here's the stock shifter out of the car. It certainly looks a lot less beefy than the MGW!

OEM Shifter.jpg


Removal Done.jpg


Ok, "out with the old" accomplished, time for "in with the new"! First is installing the MGW linkage. This was the most frustrating step for me, which was surprising as it doesn't seem like it should be. However, it took me FOREVER to be able to get the linkage bolt to engage with the threads and get started. I probably wasted 30+ minutes just cussing this one up one side and down the other as it spun merrily without tightening. However, once it magically managed to grab a couple of threads, all was once again right with the world.

MGW Linkage In.jpg


Next, in goes the top arm.

MGW Top Arm In.jpg


Then drop in the shifter body from the top and install the support pins.

Shifter Body In.jpg


Connect the linkage.

Linkage Connected.jpg


And slip the rear support bracket on.

Rear Bracket In.jpg


At this point, raise the transmission, bolt the crossmember up (mine went back in the same position, no problem), then install the rear bracket nuts and tighten all the fasteners, apply the MGW-supplied heat barrier, then put the car back on the ground. Dirty part complete!

Now, one thing that isn't mentioned in the install video is that BEFORE you put everything back together, you should adjust the reverse lockout and ensure good 1-2 shift. THIS IS THE TIME TO DO THAT. They do have a good simple video how-to here.

Get the adjustment completed.

Adjustment.jpg


and it's time to start buttoning things up. Put on the dust boot - I stretched it out by hands for a few minutes before installing which made it much easier.

Dust Boot Replaced.jpg


Put on the MGW pad and OEM sound pad.

MGW Pad.jpg


Sound Pad.jpg


Before the last few steps, a couple of tweaks. First, I decided to line my console with head shielding before putting it back in.

Console Heat Shield.jpg


Then in it goes.

Console Replaced.jpg


and then you need to remove the reverse lockout piece from the shifter boot and replace with a grommet.

Boot Modified.jpg

Boot Grommet.jpg


Finally, put the boot back on...

Boot Replaced.jpg


Install the knob, and finished!

Finished.jpg


Now that I've had some time driving it, throws are shorter, more positive, and MUCH firmer - it definitely takes more force to move the shifter, and especially to get it into reverse. That said, you can really bang into the next gear with confidence.

A good project with not too many snafus, hope this is helpful for anybody considering it.

Next up, a few more installs I hope to get to before my first track day in this car at Road Atlanta in two weeks - front and rear ZL1 tow hooks, and Xineering downshift blip module.

Oh, and an exciting one - my Signature wheels arrived today! Can't wait to see them on the car!
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Rapid Red

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Smart thinking marking the trans cross member location. Ford manual writes, a must be done reference when removing, lowering the box.

MGW good as it gets.. nice thing about the knob an easy find . :thumbsup:
 

DrumReaper

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Nice job. Just a question... it looks like your Jack stands are and different heights, placing the car at an angle. Did you put any blocks behind the rear tires? Looks sketchy from here.
 
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ChipG

ChipG

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Nice job. Just a question... it looks like your Jack stands are and different heights, placing the car at an angle. Did you put any blocks behind the rear tires? Looks sketchy from here.
Yes, I have 2 sets of jackstands, and one set is shorter. There are sturdy wheel chocks behind the rear tires. I pushed and shoved on the car before crawling underneath - nice and sturdy. I have no interest in getting a rapid closeup of the underside.
 

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Yes, I have 2 sets of jackstands, and one set is shorter. There are sturdy wheel chocks behind the rear tires. I pushed and shoved on the car before crawling underneath - nice and sturdy. I have no interest in getting a rapid closeup of the underside.
Couldnā€™t make out the chocks. Glad to hear that. Was worried you were tempting fate. Lol
 

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Epiphany

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Great job documenting your install Chip.

Of note, I filmed the video you linked while George did the install. George is a good friend and the car used was another friend's R model that drove over from South Carolina. George didn't want his feet in the video because he wasn't wearing shoes and didn't want to hear it about his socks so I filmed it vertically on a phone. We get done and move onto other things. A few days later I had returned home to NY and he calls me and asks why would I ever film that way. I said because you didn't want the world to see your socks! He then edited it, using the blank space on each side to include text, etc, and it worked out perfectly. Lemons from lemonade!
 

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Great job documenting your install Chip.

Of note, I filmed the video you linked while George did the install. George is a good friend and the car used was another friend's R model that drove over from South Carolina. George didn't want his feet in the video because he wasn't wearing shoes and didn't want to hear it about his socks so I filmed it vertically on a phone. We get done and move onto other things. A few days later I had returned home to NY and he calls me and asks why would I ever film that way. I said because you didn't want the world to see your socks! He then edited it, using the blank space on each side to include text, etc, and it worked out perfectly. Lemons from lemonade!
Was that Timā€™s car? I wonder if he still has his R.
 

Epiphany

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Yup.

I think he crashed it and then rebuilt it as more of a hardcore track bitch.
 

wingnutt

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Oughta be a sticky...

...good stuff sir!

EDIT
and by the way, your pics helped during my ā€œbolt-fell-outā€ conundrum yesterday :wink:
 
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Tank

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Oughta be a sticky...

...good stuff sir!

EDIT
and by the way, your pics helped during my ā€œbolt-fell-outā€ conundrum yesterday :wink:
Agreed. Next best thing is adding it to the GT350 Basics sticky- look for it under the How-To section.
 

DrumReaper

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Some poor dude just bought a Barton shifter. Hope he didnā€™t have any regrets. :wink:
#MGWShiftersRule:muscle:
 

wingnutt

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Some poor dude just bought a Barton shifter. Hope he didnā€™t have any regrets. :wink:
#MGWShiftersRule:muscle:
im told the Barton has more adjustability than the MGW, the flat stick is slightly reminiscent of some random cars from his past, and also more than a few bucks cheaper...probably the same poor lost soul :crazy:
 
 




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