It isn't fun, but I've pulled mine in and out several times (I have a BMR swaybar). You do have to squeeze it past the radiator hose and you have to have the right orientation, but it's doable.
All can be shipped at buyer's expense (almost all are already boxed up) or picked up near Nashville, TN. Most are New in Box never installed.
Pair of GT350 steering knuckles ('15 - '19): $625
Ford front control arms with Cortex Monoball bushings installed (NIB): $525
Ford rear lower...
If you aren't tracking or driving hard it may be fine to just swap back at the next oil change, but it's a gamble you'll have to determine for yourself.
Have to agree with this concern. I replaced my oil plug thinking I was upgrading and ended up blasting it out of the oil pan (despite being safety wired) and requiring a new oil pan. Expensive lesson - stick with OEM or similar plastic. Aftermarket metal expands at a different rate under heat...
For reference, here is some info when I installed studs:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-studs-install-front-and-rear-lots-of-photos-plus-a-wildlife-visit-and-a-screw-up-for-entertainment.159924/
I did the first time I tried the AG battery, and it didn't help. Didn't do it this time, but with the OEM battery that obviously wouldn't be the problem. Was the BCM reset all you needed to make your AG happy? From my side, I want to get rid of the charging issue error before going to a next...
When I had this issue the first time (which ended up being the alternator pigtail), the dealer did a PCM reflash to no avail. I am thinking I may be left with the unsavory option of taking it to a dealer to see if they can figure it out - though I'm concerned they won't actually diagnose...
Ok, an update on this issue (and not a positive one):
At this point I have replaced the engine wiring harness, the battery harness, and the alternator (with a new OEM unit) since last post. The only change in behavior is that now the message comes on pretty much immediately and then the battery...
Full thread on replacing the hubs front and rear:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-studs-install-front-and-rear-lots-of-photos-plus-a-wildlife-visit-and-a-screw-up-for-entertainment.159924/
I use a trim tool to pull the spring down, then slip a brake fitting wrench head over the tangs, pop it out. I get them on and off in less than a minute. Examples below shown off the car for ease of picture taking and clarity.
I use the Z26 on the street and they're fine even for aggressive mountain road blasts. OEM pads are actually quite good for the track - I've only recently changed to Hawk pads on track because I get contingencies :)
I wasn't able to look at them at the time (car was smoking hot), but will at next oil change. That was my concern. Plug seemed to seat and snug up well, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I assume you had to replace the oil pan.
Never came back to this thread, but since it's back up - my safety-wired Ronin plug popped out of the pan on track in September. I've replaced with an OEM style plastic plug, no problems.
The fuel pump I'm using is, I believe, pretty tolerant of running dry. That said, I keep it on a switch I only turn on for the track session, so the amount of time it potentially runs dry (when the passenger side is empty) is limited. If I were running a track that is the opposite of my home...