Magnaride

[shogun32]

I'm also contemplating the M-9602-M kit with VDM update despite the price, or even just the M-5300-W springs in that kit alone.

I'll have to beg ignorance on Ford spring sets. We can't seem to find rate data on these springs. Or did I miss an update?

I would ask Levittown to see if they can order just a vdm updater. Like if the mailman ran over box with his truck. Ford obviously has a sku for it, I've just never seen it listed individually.

Sponsored

 

[shogun32]

And I sure AF wouldn't want the Steeda preprogrammed DSC in my car. Two stories I've heard now of the turner not working, and Steeda was either too lazy, or DSC too unresponsive to get the controller fixed in a reasonable timeframe

That's bloody unfortunate. "you had one job!"

 

[WItoTX]

I'll have to beg ignorance on Ford spring sets. We can't seem to find rate data on these springs. Or did I miss an update?

I would ask Levittown to see if they can order just a vdm updater. Like if the mailman ran over box with his truck. Ford obviously has a sku for it, I've just never seen it listed individually.

TMO, as well as M6G, has the fronts right around 250, and the rears somewhere around 600 (IMO this is wrong, its more like 800-900, but I digress). So take it with a grain of salt.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/m-5300-w-fp-spring-rates.91226/

 

[WItoTX]

That's bloody unfortunate. "you had one job!"

I was lucky enough to meet a friend, and track-mate, who knew the guy who developed the DSC. That friend helped me really understand the DSC.

The original developer of the DSC is more than fantastic with R&D and help, but he's since taken on a different role. The new guy that took over R&D is garbage. Everything is the operators fault, it cannot possibly be the board itself. And he refuses to do any troubleshooting, and blames the tuner for the failures. "(Tuner name) is the ONLY person to ever have these issues, and its because (Tuner name) is asking way more from the DSC and the shocks than should be expected."

Nevermind that (Tuner name) is someone who has been a huge contributor to suspension development on M6G, who can point out flaws in the DSC tuning, and knows more about what different pages do in the DSC than Tom at DSC.

Another reason why I am done with mag-ride when the next strut takes a dump. And I have more stories beyond just what I've dealt with, including one with an SCCA National Champion whose DSC crapped out at Nationals in Lincoln this year, but I will save them for another day. Rant over. Sorry.

 

[BAYoung]

You were probably joking this whole time. I'm so sorry. I have a difficult time telling jokes from serious. Im sorry.

It's all good. Now if you were tangling with @TeeLew he'd cuss your ass out.

Steeda says if my shocks are in good order, just keep using them.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I'll have to beg ignorance on Ford spring sets. We can't seem to find rate data on these springs. Or did I miss an update?

I would ask Levittown to see if they can order just a vdm updater. Like if the mailman ran over box with his truck. Ford obviously has a sku for it, I've just never seen it listed individually.

TMO, as well as M6G, has the fronts right around 250, and the rears somewhere around 600 (IMO this is wrong, its more like 800-900, but I digress). So take it with a grain of salt.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/m-5300-w-fp-spring-rates.91226/

Is this spring rate chart still still accurate?

I am seeing GT350 Springs at 194/914 front/rear....I see the R springs at 240/914 front/rear.

I just want a .25-.75 inch drop and slightly more aggressive rates/handling with nice street manners without having to pay $1000+ for springs, sways, and VDM reprogramming in the M-9602-M magneride handling pack from ford.

Maybe I'm missing something, but are there no springs that are comfy on street and good on track without being 350/1200 rate like the dual rate from steeda?

 

[WItoTX]

That would be the FIRST time ever I've heard Steeda

Is this spring rate chart still still accurate?

I am seeing GT350 Springs at 194/914 front/rear....I see the R springs at 240/914 front/rear.

I just want a .25-.75 inch drop and slightly more aggressive rates/handling with nice street manners without having to pay $1000+ for springs, sways, and VDM reprogramming in the M-9602-M magneride handling pack from ford.

Maybe I'm missing something, but are there no springs that are comfy on street and good on track without being 350/1200 rate like the dual rate from steeda?

F 400/R 800.

AJ Hartman makes a coil over conversion kit that will get you that combo. The 400 lb front springs are awesome on the street, if not a little too soft for track applications, but the coil over conversion kit itself allows you to use any 2.5" x 7" spring you want. Same for the rear.

 

[WItoTX]

@Rodpwnz Sorry, to answer you question, yes, I would assume it is, as it has been kept up to date.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I'll have to beg ignorance on Ford spring sets. We can't seem to find rate data on these springs. Or did I miss an update?

I would ask Levittown to see if they can order just a vdm updater. Like if the mailman ran over box with his truck. Ford obviously has a sku for it, I've just never seen it listed individually.

I called Levittown, spoke with Dave and he confirmed that there is no separate SKU for the VDM module.

I've been researching magneride lowering springs ad nauseam, and it seems reviews and experiences are all over the place. It's understandable to get wide variations with something as subjective as springs, different use cases and with other mods muddying the waters. It also makes it more difficult because many of the cars I saw with the lowering springs look like they sit higher than my OEM PP1 Magneride height somehow..Only explanation I can think of is that they didn't clock the springs properly or something to do with the bushings? It's perplexing.

It seems yourself, @WItoTX and @TeeLew are pretty well versed in this area and have shared opinions on this forum over the years. I would have sent you DMs but I feel like it would be more beneficial to others who are in the same boat as me if we spoke about it openly.

I want a stiffer spring than PP1 but am not sure which one to go with exactly. I want a .5-1 inch even drop front/back, with better handling and good daily streetability. I don't want a track spring that can be driven on street, I want a street spring that performs better than PP1 at the track.

So far I've narrowed options down to Steeda Dual Rate, BMR SPH765, or the FP 5300-W. Maybe I'll start my own thread too since I don't want to hijack this one.

 

[WD Pro]

It also makes it more difficult because many of the cars I saw with the lowering springs look like they sit higher than my OEM PP1 Magneride height somehow..

I know you are comparing MR to MR, but I do think the MR cars sit a little lower than a standard setup :

It would appear that UK MagneRide cars may actually be a little different ... ?

Make your own mind up :

This was the first MR car my local dealer got in and it was also the first facelift. Rear tyre gap doesn’t look as big as some I have seen :

But that could be very subjective due to my arse being sat in it and the angle of the photo etc but ...

Toady I got to view two new unregistered UK cars, sat side by side for comparison. The green one is a MR car :

Rear - two fingers are a tight fit / won’t go in ( ) :

Extra clearance on this one :

Exactly the same on the front :

Green MR car sits a little lower, even considering the fall of the ground :

It’s difficult to judge, but I also think the MR cars rears sit a little further out ? (Check the fist comparison photo looking down the side of them). Maybe it’s just a byproduct of being a little lower, but I don’t get the same feeling about the front ?

So what do you think ... ?

WD

Only explanation I can think of is that they didn't clock the springs properly or something to do with the bushings? It's perplexing.

My experience from clocking the toe link knuckle bushing only :

OK, I know this was on the rear, but after having some suspension work done and the car settling for approx three months, I finally decided to clock the toe link outer bushings.

It really surprised me …

Using the arch to the line in the tyre moulding, I dropped 5mm from the right side :

And 6mm from the left :

Remember, this is just from one bushing

WD

The kit you are discussing is what I will be getting (when I finally pull my finger out), and for the exact same same reasons you are looking for.

I have the spring rates (compared to the other ford offerings), but they are on my work pc - I will post them (tomorrow) if you want ?

WD

 

[WItoTX]

I called Levittown, spoke with Dave and he confirmed that there is no separate SKU for the VDM module.

I've been researching magneride lowering springs ad nauseam, and it seems reviews and experiences are all over the place. It's understandable to get wide variations with something as subjective as springs, different use cases and with other mods muddying the waters. It also makes it more difficult because many of the cars I saw with the lowering springs look like they sit higher than my OEM PP1 Magneride height somehow..Only explanation I can think of is that they didn't clock the springs properly or something to do with the bushings? It's perplexing.

It seems yourself, @WItoTX and @TeeLew are pretty well versed in this area and have shared opinions on this forum over the years. I would have sent you DMs but I feel like it would be more beneficial to others who are in the same boat as me if we spoke about it openly.

I want a stiffer spring than PP1 but am not sure which one to go with exactly. I want a .5-1 inch even drop front/back, with better handling and good daily streetability. I don't want a track spring that can be driven on street, I want a street spring that performs better than PP1 at the track.

So far I've narrowed options down to Steeda Dual Rate, BMR SPH765, or the FP 5300-W. Maybe I'll start my own thread too since I don't want to hijack this one.

IMO, the Ford package is the best one out there. It's still (too) soft enough on the front, but it really works well on the car. I go back to, out of all of these companies, who has the most to blow on R&D? Ford. And the refinement on their product vs another is obvious. I've ridden in enough of the cars with the other companies springs to conclude Ford just has it dialed. Again, not knocking the other companies. Just a simple analysis of what it takes to make a good spring.

One other thing to add. The Ford springs I had on my car, they only dropped the rear like 12 mm if I recall (I'd have to dig out my notes to validate), where as the front dropped 20 mm.

A little research found that this is actually pretty common across all the canned spring packages.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I know you are comparing MR to MR, but I do think the MR cars sit a little lower than a standard setup

The kit you are discussing is what I will be getting (when I finally pull my finger out), and for the exact same same reasons you are looking for.

I have the spring rates (compared to the other ford offerings), but they are on my work pc - I will post them (tomorrow) if you want ?

WD

Which spring set are you planning on installing? I was contemplating Steed DR, FP 5300-W or BMR SPH765.

Yes, exactly - I am only comparing MR to MR cars. I remember your post though, and it was really insightful. I had never compared to non MR car right height but always felt my car sat lower. It was helpful to confirm that it was indeed MR cars that were lower than non MR.

It may be my blown front strut(assuming level ground), but I took some rough measurements a few days ago and my wheel gaps are kind of all over the place. I'll share some pictures tomorrow.

IMO, the Ford package is the best one out there. It's still (too) soft enough on the front, but it really works well on the car. I go back to, out of all of these companies, who has the most to blow on R&D? Ford. And the refinement on their product vs another is obvious. I've ridden in enough of the cars with the other companies springs to conclude Ford just has it dialed. Again, not knocking the other companies. Just a simple analysis of what it takes to make a good spring.

One other thing to add. The Ford springs I had on my car, they only dropped the rear like 12 mm if I recall (I'd have to dig out my notes to validate), where as the front dropped 20 mm.

A little research found that this is actually pretty common across all the canned spring packages.

I get what you mean, but even then I'm not so sure I trust ford that much more than other aftermarket companies. And also less optimal for me that there is uneven drop... If anything, I'd want the rear lowered a bit more than front since the rear has much larger gap on my 19x10 square wheel/tire setup.

Btw, what do you mean by canned spring packages? As in off the shelf and non-custom? Most spring packages advertise even drop front/rear.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Here are some wheel gap pictures I took tonight - Rear gap is pretty even side to side, but the front two are completely different height(prob due to failed strut).

Assuming I fix the strut and the fronts are level again, springs with 0.5/0.75 inch front and 1 inch rear drop would look great imo. Maybe Steeda DR up front and Steeda Lowering springs in the back would get me there. This would also be ideal/optimal spring rate setup according to many other forum members (Stiffer front, softer rear). Although not sure if that is still optimal with my OEM PP1 sways.

Two separate mechanics have told me that I probably have a failed passenger side front magneride strut.

Passenger side front (Failed strut)

Driver side front

Driver side rear

Passenger side rear

 

[shogun32]

I go back to, out of all of these companies, who has the most to blow on R&D? Ford.

Sure but if the results or goals are inadequate it's just wasted money..

For all their millions they didn't bother to live log a Camaro and learn from GM?

So after 200 miles of modest flogging my new M1 with the Steeda dual rates, the config is very much streetable. But it also drives very similar but a little improved over my duals+pro-actions.

I think the Ford springs are a perfectly safe choice.

If you're a.traxknrat or top10 autocross fiend you'll likely think differently.

But instead of springs, I would replace your pp1 dampers with the M1 set first and foremost. If you can afford both great, but if you're not going to do the dampers, just forget it.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Sure but if the results or goals are inadequate it's just wasted money..

For all their millions they didn't bother to live log a Camaro and learn from GM?

So after 200 miles of modest flogging my new M1 with the Steeda dual rates, the config is very much streetable. But it also drives very similar but a little improved over my duals+pro-actions.

I think the Ford springs are a perfectly safe choice.

But instead of springs, I would replace your pp1 dampers with the M1 set first and foremost. If you can afford both great, but if you're not going to do the dampers, just forget it.

Unfortunately too late - I already ordered the PP1 replacement front dampers last week. Not sure if I'm keen on spending another $1500+ for GT500/M1 dampers.

For springs, I'm thinking ford 5300-W or Steeda DR now. You say the DR are streetable, but how did they compare to your M1 springs before? Aren't the DR springs at 350/1200 front/back with the car on them? and then the lower rate only kicks in during inside wheel cornering when there is less weight?

I'm on soft MR PP1 springs now and although the ride is very compliant, I wouldn't mind lower center of gravity and bit more handling performance.

Sponsored