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Rodpwnz

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It seems like it was being a real bastard. I don't know if you were using a brass hammer, but that's what I use in those deals. The hammer face gets beat up, but the bolt is a lot harder than the hammer, so it doesn't. I don't know if that would have helped, but it's a thought.

I probably would have hit it with Kroil or some PB Blaster penetrating oil to try let it soak in to free it up. After that it would have been the blue wrench with MAP gas. You just have to make sure that you're not putting the heat into the damper. The puller is a really good idea, but I've never had one fight me that hard.
It was a real pain - mulitple PB blaster attempts, different weight/size mallets, turned wheel for better angle, took turns wailing on it, cursing at it, etc etc.

Also, Tim and @shogun32 - please let me know if you want me to send out my OEM dampers. I can't keep em in my office for long :wink:

On another note, took the car to a performance alignment shop and asked for 2.75 degrees front and 2.25 rear. They set the front to 2.75ish but then couldn't get the rear under 2.5. They said I would need rear camber arms to get it back into spec since I'm lowered. I'm barely lowered than OEM and I think they just had a hard time getting the camber dialed in. They said 2.5 on the rear is a bit excessive but shouldnt be a problem for performance or wear.


Thoughts?


Wheel alignment 5-07-2024.jpg
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Rodpwnz

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Just want to close this one out and let everyone know that I ended up needing to install the steeda rear camber alignment kit. Went to a different shop who got it done right. Rear was just not aligned properly initally.

As for the M-5300-W Springs and GT500 dampers - I'm used to the ride quality now, just wish the rears were a bit lower. I can still fit 2.5 fingers into the rear wheel gap, and 1.5 front - not a fan of this much rake between front and back. Might swap rears for a shorter spring.

Thanks again to everyone who helped!
 

DougS550

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Glad you got it all sorted out. Have fun!!
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