Magnaride

[Hoofer]

Here are some wheel gap pictures I took tonight - Rear gap is pretty even side to side, but the front two are completely different height(prob due to failed strut).

Assuming I fix the strut and the fronts are level again, springs with 0.5/0.75 inch front and 1 inch rear drop would look great imo. Maybe Steeda DR up front and Steeda Lowering springs in the back would get me there. This would also be ideal/optimal spring rate setup according to many other forum members (Stiffer front, softer rear). Although not sure if that is still optimal with my OEM PP1 sways.

Two separate mechanics have told me that I probably have a failed passenger side front magneride strut.

Passenger side front (Failed strut)

Driver side front

Driver side rear

Passenger side rear

To get the correct measurement side to side, park your car on a flat surface. Measure from the ground vertically to the highest point of the wheelwell.

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[WItoTX]

Sure but if the results or goals are inadequate it's just wasted money..

For all their millions they didn't bother to live log a Camaro and learn from GM?

So after 200 miles of modest flogging my new M1 with the Steeda dual rates, the config is very much streetable. But it also drives very similar but a little improved over my duals+pro-actions.

I think the Ford springs are a perfectly safe choice.

If you're a.traxknrat or top10 autocross fiend you'll likely think differently.

But instead of springs, I would replace your pp1 dampers with the M1 set first and foremost. If you can afford both great, but if you're not going to do the dampers, just forget it.

What are the 1LE spring rates? It's not much different than the claimed Ford Performance spring.

But we are on the same page. If one is looking for a compromise between everything, FP are good. Steeda gets you closer to a decent rate, but realistically one needs to be north of 400 lbs up front to be worth a damn in an AutoX or track set up.

What OP is looking for, I think he would find FP is more than sufficient.

 

[WItoTX]

I get what you mean, but even then I'm not so sure I trust ford that much more than other aftermarket companies. And also less optimal for me that there is uneven drop... If anything, I'd want the rear lowered a bit more than front since the rear has much larger gap on my 19x10 square wheel/tire setup.

Btw, what do you mean by canned spring packages? As in off the shelf and non-custom? Most spring packages advertise even drop front/rear.

All canned spring packages drop the front more than the rear. You aren't going to find a dead level drop unless you mix and match.

I actually went to AJ hartmans front coil over conversion kit, which raised the front ~1/4" and leveled the car. Which gave more room up front.

On top of that, I can throw a shim in the front strut and it gets me 2" more splitter clearance and allows me to load my car so much easier.

 

[WD Pro]

Which spring set are you planning on installing? I was contemplating Steed DR, FP 5300-W or BMR SPH765.

The FP 5300 springs (with the FP MR kit)

WD

 

[shogun32]

You say the DR are streetable, but how did they compare to your M1 springs before?

The car came to me that way. But I did test drive a M1 stock and it was definitely softer.

I don't think a half inch qualifies for cg change. But I spell improved handling as superior damping, and less so spring, but obviously the two work off each other.

The Ford springs against inadequate damping isn't going to be very useful. Better you have greater damping and soft springs.

I'm surprised you cant change the order for the M1 dampers. Just do the fronts if money is tight.

 

[TeeLew]

You have to have the front stiffer to load it properly. The stiffer it is, the better you can load the front on corner entry.

Here's the counter-intuitive part. The understeer that people complain about with a stock car is not because the car has an "understeer" roll couple or pitch control. These are both significantly too front soft/rear stiff, both which promotes oversteer. The only thing that makes the stock car understeer steady state is a lack of front camber and an excess of front weight distribution. These cars are very oversteer prone transitionally, even lacking of camber.

Increasing the front spring rate controls the braking pitch better and this allows the driver to load the front end properly, which means you can present the car to the corner with the load forward and hit the apex at the proper angle without having to worry about chasing the rear of the car. If you've hit the apex with the car at the appropriate attitude, you want the car to hook up, which means softer springs in the rear. I don't give a damn if the car understeers around a skid-pad. This transient understeer is going to give me the ability to drive in a manner so the steady state understeer is minimized.

Long story short, it's easier to drive, better on tires and just plain faster.

 

[Rodpwnz]

The car came to me that way. But I did test drive a M1 stock and it was definitely softer.

I don't think a half inch qualifies for cg change. But I spell improved handling as superior damping, and less so spring, but obviously the two work off each other.

The Ford springs against inadequate damping isn't going to be very useful. Better you have greater damping and soft springs.

I'm surprised you cant change the order for the M1 dampers. Just do the fronts if money is tight.

I had ordered OEM dampers last week and they created a shipping label today - I'm requesting for them to hold the shipment if possible. They sent an email that orders will not ship out today due to MLK. I was already heavily contemplating going all 4 corners with M1/GT500 Magneride dampers, but I needed to make a quick decision as this is my daily car and want it fully functional ASAP. If they ship out, I can still return the OEM front magride dampers I bought @ $915 OTD, with 25% restocking fee that's $230 out of pocket. The M1/GT500 dampers would have been only $200 or so more for front, or $600 more for all 4 corners. If I go with M1/GT500 dampers on all 4 corners, I may be able to throw the Steeda sport springs on there for the drop I want while having the improved damping. Let's see what happens with the OEM and if I can get a full refund before ship out.

If I can't then - for the superior damping and spring rates - I'm heavily leaning towards the M-9602-M kit that includes the FP sway bars, 5300-W springs and Magneride VDM damper tuning.

Curious about skipping/selling the sway bars and just run the springs and VDM though...

I am also still contemplating steeda DR front, with Steeda sport progressive rear. This would get me around the rates you suggested and the drop/rates I am looking for.

Unfortunately, running out of time with the struts already shipped to install ASAP and still in analysis paralysis for the spring and kit, as well as which direction to go for IRS lockout since they will be dropping the subframe for spring install anyways. Keltrac posiloc? Steeda? BMR CB005? Whitelines?

 

[shogun32]

and still in analysis paralysis for the spring and kit, as well as which direction to go for IRS lockout since they will be dropping the subframe for spring install anyways. Keltrac posiloc? Steeda? BMR CB005? Whitelines?

Alignment dowels (any), white line inserts. The bracing you can add later. I prefer the bmr cb072.

 

[TeeLew]

I had ordered OEM dampers last week and they created a shipping label today - I'm requesting for them to hold the shipment if possible. They sent an email that orders will not ship out today due to MLK. I was already heavily contemplating going all 4 corners with M1/GT500 Magneride dampers, but I needed to make a quick decision as this is my daily car and want it fully functional ASAP. If they ship out, I can still return the OEM front magride dampers I bought @ $915 OTD, with 25% restocking fee that's $230 out of pocket. The M1/GT500 dampers would have been only $200 or so more for front, or $600 more for all 4 corners. If I go with M1/GT500 dampers on all 4 corners, I may be able to throw the Steeda sport springs on there for the drop I want while having the improved damping. Let's see what happens with the OEM and if I can get a full refund before ship out.

If I can't then - for the superior damping and spring rates - I'm heavily leaning towards the M-9602-M kit that includes the FP sway bars, 5300-W springs and Magneride VDM damper tuning.

Curious about skipping/selling the sway bars and just run the springs and VDM though...

I am also still contemplating steeda DR front, with Steeda sport progressive rear. This would get me around the rates you suggested and the drop/rates I am looking for.

Unfortunately, running out of time with the struts already shipped to install ASAP and still in analysis paralysis for the spring and kit, as well as which direction to go for IRS lockout since they will be dropping the subframe for spring install anyways. Keltrac posiloc? Steeda? BMR CB005? Whitelines?

My recommendation would be the M1/GT500 dampers and the Ford 5300-W spring kit. If you later decide you need to reduce roll, I'd go with either the bigger FP or BMR front bar. The rear is kind of 'salt to taste.' If you want less understeer, go bigger, if not, don't. If you want less oversteer, go smaller. It's not some magic combination, these are tuning tools to tailor the balance to the track, day, driver, etc.

With this combo, you won't need to change the VDM programming, but you will have much better damping control than the base tuning. You get spring rates that are at least directionally better handling balance than stock with a small bit of extra spring stiffness. The front bar will flatten roll much more than the springs. Both will give you better directional response. The dampers will do a much better job of controlling the front dive on brakes and lift on throttle and the reduce the Mustang rear hop.

I highly recommend the Keltrac stud kit. Do *something* to control the rear subframe. CB005 or Keltrac, IMO. The only extra thing I'd say is the rear toe-link sphericals from FP. This combo would be a really nice daily car with the option of being competitive on AutoX and capable to get around on a track day. It'll be biased toward the street, but plenty frisky. I think this is the car that Ford should have delivered from the factory in the first place.

 

[Rodpwnz]

My recommendation would be the M1/GT500 dampers and the Ford 5300-W spring kit. If you later decide you need to reduce roll, I'd go with either the bigger FP or BMR front bar. The rear is kind of 'salt to taste.' If you want less understeer, go bigger, if not, don't. If you want less oversteer, go smaller. It's not some magic combination, these are tuning tools to tailor the balance to the track, day, driver, etc.

With this combo, you won't need to change the VDM programming, but you will have much better damping control than the base tuning.

I checked if I could cancel or swap the order and they are holding the order and likely will be able to fully put the OEM PP1 damper credits towards a new order for M1/GT500 dampers.

Now I have a couple questions and options with rough prices:

All are some variation of OEM or GT500/M1 dampers(not S197 GT500 magride), 5300-W springs, and/or full M-9602-M kit with VDM calibration.

1. Replace fronts with OEM PP1 dampers and be done with it for $950 total
2. Replace fronts with OEM PP1 dampers and add 5300-W springs for $1300 total
3. Replace fronts with OEM PP1 dampers and add M-9602-M kit for $2200 total
4. Replace fronts with GT500 dampers and be done with it for $1100 total
5. Replace fronts with GT500 dampers and add 5300-W springs for $1450 total
6. Replace fronts with GT500 dampers and add M-9602-M kit for $2300 total
7. Replace All dampers with GT500 dampers and be done with it for $1600 total
8. Replace All dampers with GT500 dampers and add 5300-W springs for $1950 total
9. Replace All dampers with GT500 dampers and add M-9602-M kit for $2800 total


@TeeLew @shogun32 @BmacIL @luc - I appreciate all your help so far in previous threads and this thread now. I am leaning heavily on yours and other forum members expertise for how to move forward for my daily driven car and wallet.

My questions about GT500/M1 dampers now are:
1. What are the correct SKUs for GT500/M1 dampers front(FR3Z18124AE?) and rear(KR3V18W002AB?)? and are they indeed confirmed plug/play? iirc, they are plug and play, and the OEM VDM would be fine since the damping is enhanced on these with the same current as OEM tuning?
2. That said, would M-9602-M VDM tuning and sways + Springs be a good fit with these? or just throw on 5300-W?

I know these are a ton of options and questions on something somewhat vague and niche. Again, my goal is the best value performance improvement for a comfortable DD that occasionally sees casual track days.

Thank you all in advance!

 

[shogun32]

4. Replace fronts with GT500 dampers and be done with it for $1100 total
5. Replace fronts with GT500 dampers and add 5300-W springs for $1450 total

your use case doesn't call for spending $$$$ unless you really just want to.
I just reconfirmed with BMR that the SP084 spring is a 1"+ drop (ick) and 246lb/in. So since the -W springs are similar rate but 20mm drop, go for those.

You don't need sway bars and I wouldn't buy bonded-bushing ones anyway. The VDM would have been nice to have but I think it only really matters for Track mode, and not the lower levels. So not really of any great importance.

The POINT is to replace the old GT350/PP1 dampers with the new ones because there is where the benefits are.

I can't confirm the M1/GT500 SKUs but your parts department can. And yes, they are totally plug+play.

 

[TeeLew]

I'll echo Shogun. W springs. Hold off on bars until you know you want them. You can buy the aftermarket ones separately, and that would probably be best. I question how necessary the bigger rear bar is.

The new GT500 dampers are 'dumb' 2-wire devices, so completely plug and play. They look identical. Because you're changing the physical damper, you don't need to change the VDM. The current the VDM supplies to produce the damping forces will stay the same as it ever was, you'll just have more damping force everywhere, because the dampers make more force for a given input.

Changing bars is not a particularly big job. They can be done whenever. You'll want to do the springs and dampers together, though.

If you're pinched on cash, then just do the springs and struts. The rear dampers are also a relatively easy swap and can be done later. Since you're not throwing a bunch of rear spring rate on it, it will still be acceptable with the stock rear. The GT500 version will help keep the rear overall motion more controlled, particularly on larger, 'roller' bumps.

 

[kz]

Two cents - bars is the FP set do not have bonded bushings (FP sells replacement bushings) - I think that is a feature of PP1 stock front bar. And they're massive, especially front one. Both have only two adjustment holes compared to 3 or 4 in typical aftermarket bars.

@TeeLew - do you know how much more damping force those dampers make for the same current ?

 

[TeeLew]

@TeeLew - do you know how much more damping force those dampers make for the same current ?

Roughly twice for a given current/shaft speed.

 

[Rodpwnz]

your use case doesn't call for spending $$$$ unless you really just want to.
I just reconfirmed with BMR that the SP084 spring is a 1"+ drop (ick) and 246lb/in. So since the -W springs are similar rate but 20mm drop, go for those.

You don't need sway bars and I wouldn't buy bonded-bushing ones anyway. The VDM would have been nice to have but I think it only really matters for Track mode, and not the lower levels. So not really of any great importance.

The POINT is to replace the old GT350/PP1 dampers with the new ones because there is where the benefits are.

I can't confirm the M1/GT500 SKUs but your parts department can. And yes, they are totally plug+play.

I'll echo Shogun. W springs. Hold off on bars until you know you want them. You can buy the aftermarket ones separately, and that would probably be best. I question how necessary the bigger rear bar is.

The new GT500 dampers are 'dumb' 2-wire devices, so completely plug and play. They look identical. Because you're changing the physical damper, you don't need to change the VDM. The current the VDM supplies to produce the damping forces will stay the same as it ever was, you'll just have more damping force everywhere, because the dampers make more force for a given input.

Changing bars is not a particularly big job. They can be done whenever. You'll want to do the springs and dampers together, though.

If you're pinched on cash, then just do the springs and struts. The rear dampers are also a relatively easy swap and can be done later. Since you're not throwing a bunch of rear spring rate on it, it will still be acceptable with the stock rear. The GT500 version will help keep the rear overall motion more controlled, particularly on larger, 'roller' bumps.

Thanks for the advice @shogun32 and @TeeLew

I've been working with a fantastic member of the parts department and he was able to pull the VIN and parts catalog for a 2022 GT500. There are different damper levels(2/3) to choose from, would either of you be able to steer me in the right direction?

Here are the SKUs that shows up for him based on a 2022 GT500 VIN 1FA6P8SJ0N5503439:
Front: KR3Z-18124-B ($310)
Rear: KR3Z-18125-D($390)
(previously thought it was KR3Z-18125-E)

Here are the SKUs that I have found online:
Front: FR3Z-18124-AE ($380) - GT350R damper?
Rear: KR3Z-18125-D ($370) - GT350R damper?

From another mustang forum member's GT350R SKUs: Front Strut is: FR3Z18124T, Rear: FR3Z18125S

oddly enough, the fronts for the GT500 are less expensive than OEM PP1 front....

Are M1, GT350R and GT500 dampers the same functionally?

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