Mach 1 HP Spoiler

[Charlemagne]

Thanks. I'll probably end up with oem sensors too when I'll have the remote at hand, I suspect it'd be less of a hassle in the long run than with aftermarket sensors. I think it should be fine for 3x 20 min track sessions once a year or so.

Found these in dark gray aluminum, but no idea how easy it would be to pair them with the car...
https://www.tyresure-tpms.com/pages/product_details.php?product=TYR-S509

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[SROhlms]

On the HP spoiler here in the US I ordered the black version since the magnetic grey doesn't seem to be an option. Took it to a ford body shop and another collision paint place to get it matched to oem, and weirdly neither wanted to to touch it. Both places said they couldn't guarantee a good paint finish and longevity.

Same here. I took the OEM GT500 spoiler in gloss black to a couple large chain paint and body shops known for doing top notch work. I provided them the proper paint code and dozens of close up pics of the finish of Mach 1 HP spoilers and they still weren't willing to attempt to replicate it.

 

[Atlas1]

Same here. I took the OEM GT500 spoiler in gloss black to a couple large chain paint and body shops known for doing top notch work. I provided them the proper paint code and dozens of close up pics of the finish of Mach 1 HP spoilers and they still weren't willing to attempt to replicate it.

did they give you a reason why? a paint shop i used to use stopped doing any work like this as well. they focus strictly on insurance repair work as its much easier and pays better than anything custom for guys like us.

 

[crzystang]

did they give you a reason why? a paint shop i used to use stopped doing any work like this as well. they focus strictly on insurance repair work as its much easier and pays better than anything custom for guys like us.

I believe you hit it on the head. Plus most people looking for some “custom” work normally have a higher standard. And let’s be honest color matching some parts is tough especially when they are factory vs let me see what I can do.

 

[Atlas1]

I believe you hit it on the head. Plus most people looking for some “custom” work normally have a higher standard. And let’s be honest color matching some parts is tough especially when they are factory vs let me see what I can do.

sad. fewer and fewer shops catering to hot rodders. most of the people getting their camry fixed probably wouldn't even notice if it was fixed correctly. we would know if the number of metallic flakes in the rear wing was accurate

 

[SROhlms]

did they give you a reason why? a paint shop i used to use stopped doing any work like this as well. they focus strictly on insurance repair work as its much easier and pays better than anything custom for guys like us.

Likely that exact reason. It's something they weren't used to doing and they said they wouldn't be able to guarantee the quality or longevity of the finish, so they didn't want to take on the project. Despite being an OE color they use on the regular, it was the satin clearcoat finish they wanted no part of.

 

[Rynoe]

Alright keeping this thread alive here! Just ordered the spoiler + gurney flap (M-16600-FP) and now to look into shops for paint. Hopefully Houston has a few shops that will be willing to take on the satin clear coat.

I have been told this is code M6 Magnetic Metallic with a “stage 4 Satin clear coat” and a dark grey primer base which sounds right. There are plenty of removal and install videos for this spoiler that I’m not too worried about issues there.

Is there anyone that has been through this and have any tips or notes I should be aware of?

 

[RandomTask]

Alright keeping this thread alive here! Just ordered the spoiler + gurney flap (M-16600-FP) and now to look into shops for paint. Hopefully Houston has a few shops that will be willing to take on the satin clear coat.

I have been told this is code M6 Magnetic Metallic with a “stage 4 Satin clear coat” and a dark grey primer base which sounds right. There are plenty of removal and install videos for this spoiler that I’m not too worried about issues there.

Is there anyone that has been through this and have any tips or notes I should be aware of?

Theres a guy over at TrackMustangsOnline that got his painted. Looks like he’s in Houston too, so at least somebody down there can get it done! hopefully you find the right shop to do it.

I just want to add I gave up and installed the gloss black. It actually looks pretty awesome imho, it matches up to the gloss black trunk piece, and the gloss black front bumper detail, along with the mach 1 black stripe, there’s enough black on the car, so I have not felt at any stage like chasing the magnetic color match since.

The install and removal of the oe spoiler was easy. Only thing to watch, is when you set the new one down, make sure you set the middle adhesive part first, and then the outside wings. On the ‘wings’, make sure you spread from the middle and front of the spoiler out, set the middle first and kinda flex and spread the spoiler a little out to the wings. I found this spread the wing out and allowed full adhesive contact. Don’t let the rear of the adhesive stick first otherwise the front of the adhesive can lift from the car. It’s super sticky once it’s down and difficult to reposition.

I found it helpful to cut the 3M backing paper into front and rear strips with an exacto first, and made little tabs to pull it off, once I got the front positioned.

Hope that makes sense! Good luck!

 

[Rynoe]

Theres a guy over at TrackMustangsOnline that got his painted. Looks like he’s in Houston too, so at least somebody down there can get it done! hopefully you find the right shop to do it.

I just want to add I gave up and installed the gloss black. It actually looks pretty awesome imho, it matches up to the gloss black trunk piece, and the gloss black front bumper detail, along with the mach 1 black stripe, there’s enough black on the car, so I have not felt at any stage like chasing the magnetic color match since.

The install and removal of the oe spoiler was easy. Only thing to watch, is when you set the new one down, make sure you set the middle adhesive part first, and then the outside wings. On the ‘wings’, make sure you spread from the middle and front of the spoiler out, set the middle first and kinda flex and spread the spoiler a little out to the wings. I found this spread the wing out and allowed full adhesive contact. Don’t let the rear of the adhesive stick first otherwise the front of the adhesive can lift from the car. It’s super sticky once it’s down and difficult to reposition.

I found it helpful to cut the 3M backing paper into front and rear strips with an exacto first, and made little tabs to pull it off, once I got the front positioned.

Hope that makes sense! Good luck!

Nice thanks! Awaiting to join the group to message him but I've been called by a few shops today saying that they can do it. Just waiting on quotes now. The gloss black would match better with the rear but I'm kind if attached to this matte magnetic metallic color now. It just seems to go so well with grabber blue.

Thats a great idea with tabbing the 3M paper though! I've seen guys eyeball it, use guides and such for the bolt holes but your way sounds the easiest/less stressful. I haven't heard about working outwards from the center but it makes sense. Thanks for the awesome tips and I'll post the outcome when its painted and mounted.

 

[svtfever]

I did something a little different with mine. came out nice. left the gurney portion gloss. Looks killer!

 

[Atlas1]

I did something a little different with mine. came out nice. left the gurney portion gloss. Looks killer!

Wow. A YouTube car channel that isn’t pure cringe, how refreshing.
You should do catted headers next with factory catback so I have more data to make my decision

 

[Rynoe]

Ok so After calming down (a lot) I’m taking this to the forums. I’m assuming this is not how the spoiler wings are supposed to fit correct?

all guide bolts are inserted and nuts tightened down. It almost seems like the trunk was formed incorrectly or the spoiler was formed terribly off.

Will be contacting Ford Performance and the Ford dealership that painted this spoiler.

 

[2BigPups]

Ok so After calming down (a lot) I’m taking this to the forums. I’m assuming this is not how the spoiler wings are supposed to fit correct?

all guide bolts are inserted and nuts tightened down. It almost seems like the trunk was formed incorrectly or the spoiler was formed terribly off.

Will be contacting Ford Performance and the Ford dealership that painted this spoiler.

Did you completely clean the trunk lid after removing the original spoiler (all adhesive, as well as the washer for the plastic clip)? Almost looks like the nut for that side was not tightened down.

I replaced the non-HP blade spoiler with the HP spoiler and had no gaps.

 

[Rynoe]

Did you completely clean the trunk lid after removing the original spoiler (all adhesive, as well as the washer for the plastic clip)? Almost looks like the nut for that side was not tightened down.

I replaced the non-HP blade spoiler with the HP spoiler and had no gaps.

Yup trunk cleaned perfectly and nuts tightened where one is almost stripped from me trying to adjust this out.

Either this is a bad part or my trunk lid is off at the molding or holes.

Update: My Ford body shop I had this painted said it’s a defective spoiler great. He said more than likely Ford performance will replace it and then pay to have it painted since I had it done at a Ford body shop. Since they are closed on weekends I’ll have to wait.

 

[CruiserT]

Could someone tell please if after installing the HP spoiler a Ford logo still would be visible somehow - maybe from underneath? It‘s not easy to get the spoiler street legal in Germany, but in case a Ford logo would be visible at least it could be identified as original Ford part.
Thanks in advance!

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