Lug Nuts Compatibility

[mustanghammer]

Thought about this allot.

Ford uses the 2 piece design because the outer shell is stainless. So no issues with rust that can eventually happen with a solid chromed nut. While understand it still doesn't explain why Asian manufacturers, in my experience, don't do this. Perhaps because they buy better lug nuts on the supplier market than Ford does.

As far as standing the test of time, no one that works on cars for a living agrees with this. They hate them and I hated them when that was my job. The older the nuts get the more likely that they are to get stuck in an impact socket. A real PITA when you are trying to finish a tire rotation, which should be a simple process.

I will say that the ones that came on my 17 are better made than the ones that came on my 85. Still don't like them.

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[mustanghammer]

Interesting.......

https://www.autonews.com/fixed-ops-...-ford-lug-nuts-continue-complicate-dealership

Ford Performance sells open end lug nuts with a cone tapper like the OE two piece nuts. Steeda has the best price at 5 for 10.99. I am ordering some. I do see the value in having a wider cone seat.

Also regarding torque specs. I think it is safe to assume that 150 ft lbs is a dry spec. Meaning no oil, grease or anti seize on the stud, nuts or wheel seats. I apply anti seize to the wheel studs on all my cars, trucks, race car, trailer, etc. and have for years with no issues. As a result I torque my wheels to a lower setting - 125 ft lbs on my Mustang and my 1 ton van (it has 9/16" studs) for example.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Interesting.......

https://www.autonews.com/fixed-ops-...-ford-lug-nuts-continue-complicate-dealership

Ford Performance sells open end lug nuts with a cone tapper like the OE two piece nuts. Steeda has the best price at 5 for 10.99. I am ordering some. I do see the value in having a wider cone seat.

Also regarding torque specs. I think it is safe to assume that 150 ft lbs is a dry spec. Meaning no oil, grease or anti seize on the stud, nuts or wheel seats. I apply anti seize to the wheel studs on all my cars, trucks, race car, trailer, etc. and have for years with no issues. As a result I torque my wheels to a lower setting - 125 ft lbs on my Mustang and my 1 ton van (it has 9/16" studs) for example.

150 is a dry spec, that's correct.

Those open ended Ford Performance lug nuts are nice. They're durable, nice coating (over basically bare metal), and lightweight. I use a set for the race wheels which have a full sized seat. They seem to be holding up better than any of the others I've used.

My street wheels (Project 6gr 7s) have lug nut hole ~1.125" wide with a seating cone ~0.75" wide, while my racing wheels (Apex SM-10) are more like stock and have a 1.4" area for a socket with a ~1" wide cone seat.

Some lug nuts.....
Gorilla large 61148CX - 1.2" wide, 21mm socket - bought these to replace the poor factory lugs on stock wheels.
Ford Performance open-ended - 1.05" wide, 21mm socket
Gorilla small extended 45048BC - 0.935" wide, 19mm socket 'forged steel'
Gorilla small 41148BC - 0.87" wide, 19mm socket. 'black chrome' marked HT for heat treated. Good stuff and my go-to lug for small seat aftermarket wheels.

This 19mm socket is 1.02" diameter, the 21mm socket pictured is 1.22" at the rubber.

These have been used a lot. especially those small closed gorillas, so they show a little wear and minor chipping on the corners. None of it is really visible when they're on the car and IMHO should be expected for as much as I use and abuse them.

Its worth noting that for the Gorilla part numbers 91148BC are 'bulk where 91147BC would be sold in a plastic clamshell set. and 91147BCB would be sold in a bag.

 

[Fly2High]

Just posted this on my build thread, but also very relevant for this thread :



WD

post your wheels too. I will have to double check but on the PP2 wheels, it was different slightly more if I recall. The amount could be wheel dependent although it should be more based on seat angle and such. What could differ slightly is the depth of the seat and that will slightly change the contact area.

 

[S550_GTCS]

I ran into the bulging OEM lug this weekend. It's been in the 60's here and I still have my summer wheels/tires on the cars. Well, it's going to be in the 20's tomorrow so I went to change the wheels last Saturday. Get all 4 OEM wheels on hand tight and go to torque the first one. HMMMM..could have sworn these are 13/16th. Chalked it up to my bad memory and got a 22mm on the lug. It wasn't a perfect fit but not terrible. First turn of the torque wrench and I feel it strip and spin off. SHIT! Panic mode for 45 mins until I was finally able to get the lug off. Waiting on the Gorilla lugs to get here tomorrow. Wish I would have seen this thread first.

 

[Rash]

I ran into the bulging OEM lug this weekend. It's been in the 60's here and I still have my summer wheels/tires on the cars. Well, it's going to be in the 20's tomorrow so I went to change the wheels last Saturday. Get all 4 OEM wheels on hand tight and go to torque the first one. HMMMM..could have sworn these are 13/16th. Chalked it up to my bad memory and got a 22mm on the lug. It wasn't a perfect fit but not terrible. First turn of the torque wrench and I feel it strip and spin off. SHIT! Panic mode for 45 mins until I was finally able to get the lug off. Waiting on the Gorilla lugs to get here tomorrow. Wish I would have seen this thread first.

How did you get it off? Same situation here - one lug "swollen", can't get 13/16 or 21 mm on, 22 too big. Was just going to hammer the 21 mm on and sacrifice it = cheaper than buying bolt extractor. Did you do something different? Also - where's the best place to buy OEM lug nuts ?

 

[Rapid Red]

I ran into the bulging OEM lug this weekend. It's been in the 60's here and I still have my summer wheels/tires on the cars. Well, it's going to be in the 20's tomorrow so I went to change the wheels last Saturday. Get all 4 OEM wheels on hand tight and go to torque the first one. HMMMM..could have sworn these are 13/16th. Chalked it up to my bad memory and got a 22mm on the lug. It wasn't a perfect fit but not terrible. First turn of the torque wrench and I feel it strip and spin off. SHIT! Panic mode for 45 mins until I was finally able to get the lug off. Waiting on the Gorilla lugs to get here tomorrow. Wish I would have seen this thread first.

Question, did you ever use an impact to remove the wheel in the past?

Here is the reason for the question, you can see the damage caused by an impact. Look closely and you can also see it was removed and installed with one. Top arrow install, bottom removal.

Further more 13/16th and 22mm are real close, it's possible the user, had the wrong socket. Not to blame the OP, but shops/dealers are loaded with half wits, that don't give a damn.

While on this rant, the use of an impact can be controlled and not damage the lug. What did I say, yes instead of using the impact like a jack hammer, short trigger burst will knock the nut loose

As to replacing, lower the air pressure or lower the impact toque. So the nut is just snug, use a ratchet if unsure. Then lower the car almost, so as the tire will not turn when final turque is applied.

Just saying

I'm trying to determine the likely hood of this type of lug nut failure. Thinking about all the Mustangs out here. I 'm having a tuff time picturing this problem.

I am sure when folks take a car to the dealer. For oil, rotation or tire replacement that they replace the lug nuts.

Then the other deal I am not all that confident with, the after market. At producing a replacement the duplicates the factory fit.

Reading some of the adds for after market wheels and inserts to center a wheel on the hub ..Not one that wants adapters or spacers to get things to work.

In other words, not interested in an almost, really close spec, part.

For now i'm asking question to make a decsion on the direction to take with the lug nuts.

Thanks for any information anyone wishes to pass along.

 

[BimmerDriver]

You're joking, right?

I am sure when folks take a car to the dealer. For oil, rotation or tire replacement that they replace the lug nuts.

 

[WD Pro]

I hope not, I've just got new ones for Christmas !

WD

 

[S550_GTCS]

How did you get it off? Same situation here - one lug "swollen", can't get 13/16 or 21 mm on, 22 too big. Was just going to hammer the 21 mm on and sacrifice it = cheaper than buying bolt extractor. Did you do something different? Also - where's the best place to buy OEM lug nuts ?

I got lucky and hadn't really torqued the one lug that much. I put the 22 on there and pushed down towards the ground as I loosened it. It was able to grab the lug enough to get it off. I think i got very lucky. I tried to hammer the socket on and they were too swollen for that.

I got the Gorilla lugs from CJ Pony.

 

[Rapid Red]

You're joking, right?

What do you think, not a hard one to answer right ?

 

[BimmerDriver]

What do you think, not a hard one to answer right ?

Sometimes sarcasm is difficult to detect.

 

[NotThatMechInclined]

Happy New Year everybody!

I have these wheels:

Would these lug nuts work correctly/look right:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/gorilla...yle-bulge-chrome-mustang-2015-2021/p/WHLLN29/

I tried the McGard link that WD posted on the previous page, but Safari says it can't get a secure connection to their server.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rapid Red]

Happy New Year everybody!

I have these wheels:

Would these lug nuts work correctly/look right:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/gorilla...yle-bulge-chrome-mustang-2015-2021/p/WHLLN29/

I tried the McGard link that WD posted on the previous page, but Safari says it can't get a secure connection to their server.

Thanks in advance!

Yes, and thanks for the find going to pick up a set myself.

 

[Genxer]

I changed over to the Gorilla 61148CX lugs last night. I already had their locks, so buying a lug nut kit yielded me 4 extras. I can’t believe how much better they look in regard to the finish. The ones I got are about .20” taller than the OEM lugs. They have a nice wide seat just like the OEM part. To get the old ones off I ran into the same issues with no socket fitting correctly. A 21mm or 13/16” was a no-go, and a 22 was too loose. My solution was a bit dark but it worked great. I have orphan tools from various kits I’ve collected (bought, given, found) through the years. I have several of those feeler gages you get in cheap Chinese tool kits. I cut one of them down to size and placed it in the flat of a 6 point 22mm socket. It snugged up the lug nuts enough to allow me to get them all off. On the new ones, a 13/16” fits perfectly. For reference:
13/16 = .8125”
21mm = .8267”
22mm = .8661”

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