Just another oil change question.

[JimsFury]

My 2019 Mustang Gt now has 400 miles and I plan on changing my oil at 500 miles to get the factory oil out of it. I am aware that Ford says to use 5/20 but ive also heard of guys using 5/30 or even 10/30, I am sticking with Mobil 1 since that is what I have used for years. I live in a hot climate and dont need a super thin oil which 5/20 seems to be, if I go 5/30 or even 10/30 am I safe?

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[engineermike]

I’ve been using 5w40 for about 18,000 supercharged miles on my 2018. I check consumption each change and it doesn’t not consume a measurable amount. If I were na I would use either twinpower turbo 5w30 or Castro 5w30 a3/b4.

I’d leave the factory fill in there til at least 5k miles.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I would stick to 5w20 since you’re still in the break-in period.. just keep it as factory recommended. With the off chance something stupid happens with the motor I wouldn’t want the dealer or Ford to have any ammo in an argument as to why it wouldn’t be covered. 5w20 is fine for normal use even in hot climates. If you track the car or anything then a higher weight would make sense.

I also second not changing it so early.

Also, something worth looking into is Mobil 1 is not agreed as the best oil for Coyote engines.

 

[JimsFury]

What brand are people using in the Coyote's?

 

[TheReaper]

My 2019 Mustang Gt now has 400 miles and I plan on changing my oil at 500 miles to get the factory oil out of it. I am aware that Ford says to use 5/20 but ive also heard of guys using 5/30 or even 10/30, I am sticking with Mobil 1 since that is what I have used for years. I live in a hot climate and dont need a super thin oil which 5/20 seems to be, if I go 5/30 or even 10/30 am I safe?

Run the factory oil for at least 2000 miles. I'm on my 3rd Coyote and I run the factory oil for 7,000 miles and have never had a oil usage issue. Make sure you don't baby it while you break it in.

 

[SAL-E]

I would stay with Mobil1 if you have been happy with it. I have used it in all my cars almost since it was introduced. Never a problem... no oil consumption either.

 

[Dfeeds]

5w20 vs 5w30 comes down to how you use the car. I'd stick with 5w30 over 10w30, if it's between those two. 5w30 basically thins out at a higher temp than 5w20. Normal operating temp of the coyote is right around where the 5w20, especially a syn blend, starts to be stressed. The grey area comes into where not all oils are equal. Synthetics, generally, will be better. Without going too much into it, synthetics are better at resisting break down due to heat, something that can become an issue around bearing surfaces. This holds double true on an engine that's spinning up passed 7k RPMs.

There's some rather old quotes from ex Ford engineers that state 5w20 should not be used at all, because it doesn't provide enough adequate protection, and it's purely for CAFE purposes. 5w30, according to those quotes, is the bare minimum for street use in a modular engine. The problem with those quotes is that they're about 10 years old, and oil formulas have gone through major changes (some for better and some for worse) in that time span. The additive package of an oil is said to contribute more to protection than the viscosity itself (still a few unknowns about some of these theories). However, that being the case, I'm still a proponent of 5w30 for these specific engines.

Basically it comes down to this: if most of your driving habits are reserved and fuel efficient then 5w20 is perfectly fine, and probably better because the oil will be at its optimum temp faster than 5w30. If you're someone who frequently enjoys spirited driving or are cruising on the expressway at a speed that puts you at around 2500+ RPMs, then 5w30 gives you a better buffer for the heat. The other thing to note is that fuel dilution, as well as heat, can cause the oil the sheer. This means that the 5w30 you're running may quickly sheer down to 5w20. While a 5w20 is more resistant to sheering (usually), it will still happen and become even thinner than it originally was over a standard OCI. Again, synthetics are better at handling this than dino oil. Then there's also the fact that some 5w30s are just as thin as 5w20s between manufacturers. It's a bit ridiculous, to be honest.


So the best advice I can give to keep it simple is this: Use full synthetic, not synthetic blend. If you're driving is conservative stick to 5w20. If you're a spirited driver then use 5w30 for a better buffer of the aforementioned issues. 5w40 shouldn't be necessary for regular street driving, unless you are boosted like the above poster. Beyond all of that, the most important factor is just making sure you're oil is at its optimum temp before you start to open it up.

As for brand? I use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. It holds both the new API SN+ and Dexos Gen 2 certifications to combat LSPI. I know these engines are turbocharged from thje factory, and that's where that issue becomes biggest, but it's still a 12:1 compression engine so it's somewhat relevant. I mostly just like the idea of the formulas with both those certs to be brand new.

 

[Ghostrealm]

Mobil 1 here. Its the best. In tests its still stays liquid even in subbelow weather. Royal purple turns to molassis stay away from that stuff.

 

[JimsFury]

Mobil 1 here. Its the best. In tests its still stays liquid even in subbelow weather. Royal purple turns to molassis stay away from that stuff.

Yeah im not using any Royal Purple but I have heard Amsoil is very good. I will most likely stick with Mobil 1 since ive been using it for so long with excellent results.

 

[JimsFury]

5w20 vs 5w30 comes down to how you use the car. I'd stick with 5w30 over 10w30, if it's between those two. 5w30 basically thins out at a higher temp than 5w20. Normal operating temp of the coyote is right around where the 5w20, especially a syn blend, starts to be stressed. The grey area comes into where not all oils are equal. Synthetics, generally, will be better. Without going too much into it, synthetics are better at resisting break down due to heat, something that can become an issue around bearing surfaces. This holds double true on an engine that's spinning up passed 7k RPMs.

There's some rather old quotes from ex Ford engineers that state 5w20 should not be used at all, because it doesn't provide enough adequate protection, and it's purely for CAFE purposes. 5w30, according to those quotes, is the bare minimum for street use in a modular engine. The problem with those quotes is that they're about 10 years old, and oil formulas have gone through major changes (some for better and some for worse) in that time span. The additive package of an oil is said to contribute more to protection than the viscosity itself (still a few unknowns about some of these theories). However, that being the case, I'm still a proponent of 5w30 for these specific engines.

Basically it comes down to this: if most of your driving habits are reserved and fuel efficient then 5w20 is perfectly fine, and probably better because the oil will be at its optimum temp faster than 5w30. If you're someone who frequently enjoys spirited driving or are cruising on the expressway at a speed that puts you at around 2500+ RPMs, then 5w30 gives you a better buffer for the heat. The other thing to note is that fuel dilution, as well as heat, can cause the oil the sheer. This means that the 5w30 you're running may quickly sheer down to 5w20. While a 5w20 is more resistant to sheering (usually), it will still happen and become even thinner than it originally was over a standard OCI. Again, synthetics are better at handling this than dino oil. Then there's also the fact that some 5w30s are just as thin as 5w20s between manufacturers. It's a bit ridiculous, to be honest.


So the best advice I can give to keep it simple is this: Use full synthetic, not synthetic blend. If you're driving is conservative stick to 5w20. If you're a spirited driver then use 5w30 for a better buffer of the aforementioned issues. 5w40 shouldn't be necessary for regular street driving, unless you are boosted like the above poster. Beyond all of that, the most important factor is just making sure you're oil is at its optimum temp before you start to open it up.

As for brand? I use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. It holds both the new API SN+ and Dexos Gen 2 certifications to combat LSPI. I know these engines are turbocharged from thje factory, and that's where that issue becomes biggest, but it's still a 12:1 compression engine so it's somewhat relevant. I mostly just like the idea of the formulas with both those certs to be brand new.

Im not going to track or race the Mustang on any tracks and ive had it for 5 weeks now and only 450 miles on it so when im not working it stays in the garage but I plan on going with 5/30 because of so much negativity ive heard about the infamous "tick" on these motors and hopefully I wont get that running a little thicker oil.

 

[engineermike]

To back up what Dfeeds posted, my view is that engine failures occur when something goes wrong. Engine overheated, detonation, some part out of tolerance, etc. higher viscosity are more likely to survive when something else goes wrong. 5w20 is fine for low stress use when nothing goes wrong. You know there is talk of 0w8 and putting in place load limiting controls to protect the engine for off-design operation.

 

[JimsFury]

Whats all the talk about on these Coyote's having the infamous engine tick?, What part of the engine cause the "tick"?

 

[Andy13186]

No one seems to know what causes it for sure, alot of people think its mild piston slap. I had it bad but ceratec added to the oil fixes it immediately somehow. I use amsoil 0w30 and a bottle of ceratec.

 

[PUNISHER7772]

2018 Mustang GT, first oil change was at 5k.
I can't confrim but there is supposed to be additives to assist with break in, kind of makes you wonder if these guys changing so early are actually causing issues.
I did hear rumors there was a bad batch of blocks (bore out of round).
Working on second oil change but planning on 7500 miles for this one.
I have no ticks or funny noises, I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 with Mobil 1 filter and get great MPG's.
I would also suggest adding a catch can on the passenger side if you haven't yet.

 

[Andy13186]

I had the engine tick at 300 miles on the odometer with the factory fill, so changing early has nothing to do with it. Also I believe ford factory fill is motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20. I probably had the tick at 0 miles but just didnt notice it because I wasnt listening for it.

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