Input needed, no real confidence in the car

[Nagare]

Definitely agree, he's already got MR, lowering springs, cradle support. Either it's the lack of clocking all around, something isn't torqued quite right, or the alignment is fighting itself and it's compounded by all of the above and the wider tires pulling him with the road.

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[Cardude99]

Oh, well there we have it. I only mentioned that because my understanding was the Magneride dampers were designed more for comfort as opposed to pure performance which the dual rate springs are for. Glad to hear it's working out!

Oh yes they are comfy, but they are the same shocks on the pp2 and gt350 just a different tune for them if I'm not mistaken. So they are not as performance oriented as the pp2 or gt350 but they are still vastly better at performance than the non magneride shocks. They are also very good at adapting to the environment, I believe the dual rate springs allows the magneride system to just work better

 

[USMC 005]

Are you hearing a ticking or knock when you first drive off in first or put in revers and start backing up? I been having the same issue with my car and its stock on the rear suspension. If I am driving on the highway and I hit any kind of bump the car gets all lose and it scares the shit out of me. I just now about 30 mins ago got my car back from the dealership and they are saying my bushings need to be replaced and its not covered under power train warranty. They want 4K to fix it and basically remove the back end to do all this work and replace parts. I am like WOW. I dont hot rod my car. Never even done a burnout in it. How does this happen to a 2015 Mustang GT. I bought it brand new. Everything you discribed is what I have experienced with my car. Only difference is mine is stock. No mods to the suspension.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Are you hearing a ticking or knock when you first drive off in first or put in revers and start backing up? I been having the same issue with my car and its stock on the rear suspension. If I am driving on the highway and I hit any kind of bump the car gets all lose and it scares the shit out of me. I just now about 30 mins ago got my car back from the dealership and they are saying my bushings need to be replaced and its not covered under power train warranty. They want 4K to fix it and basically remove the back end to do all this work and replace parts. I am like WOW. I dont hot rod my car. Never even done a burnout in it. How does this happen to a 2015 Mustang GT. I bought it brand new. Everything you discribed is what I have experienced with my car. Only difference is mine is stock. No mods to the suspension.

USMC 005 - Your issues sound exactly like a rear hub has gone out (I’ve had 3 go). I’ve also had a actual torn rear control arm bushing on my car, but I drive pretty hard.

‘Ting’ noises and pops at low speed are the rear hub, which can also cause erratic handling under power. Torn bushing is harder to ID because it wont usually make noise, but can throw off your alignment and cause odd alignment shifting under load.

I’d get a second opinion if they’re asking to replace all the bushings, but indeed fixing a torn LRCA bushing involves basically disassembling the entire rear suspension on that side, no joke. Hubs arent nearly as bad and it does at least sound like that could be part of your issue.

So maybe go get a second opinion and ask them to look for torn bushings and bad wheel hubs. Our cars are heavy and rubber doesn’t age well. They’ll go eventually. The hubs dont last forever either, just a fact of owning an aging car. Then we can talk about shocks wearing out.

 

[BmacIL]

USMC 005 - Your issues sound exactly like a rear hub has gone out (I’ve had 3 go). I’ve also had a actual torn rear control arm bushing on my car, but I drive pretty hard.

‘Ting’ noises and pops at low speed are the rear hub, which can also cause erratic handling under power. Torn bushing is harder to ID because it wont usually make noise, but can throw off your alignment and cause odd alignment shifting under load.

I’d get a second opinion if they’re asking to replace all the bushings, but indeed fixing a torn LRCA bushing involves basically disassembling the entire rear suspension on that side, no joke. Hubs arent nearly as bad and it does at least sound like that could be part of your issue.

So maybe go get a second opinion and ask them to look for torn bushings and bad wheel hubs. Our cars are heavy and rubber doesn’t age well. They’ll go eventually. The hubs dont last forever either, just a fact of owning an aging car. Then we can talk about shocks wearing out.

I've got the popping occasionally (MUCH better after replacing the axle nut) under load changes, but when I inspect for wheel bearing degradation or failure it feels as tight as new. No slop when trying to push the wheel planar to the face.

 

[brl0301]

I was having a very similar feeling on my car after lowering springs were installed. The fix for me was the steeda roll center correction front control arms. They come with longer ball joints installed and help bring some of the front end geometry back in line with the stock setup. My car was borderline unsafe before them and is on rails after. Was defienently worth the expense on my setup.

 

[USMC 005]

USMC 005 - Your issues sound exactly like a rear hub has gone out (I’ve had 3 go). I’ve also had a actual torn rear control arm bushing on my car, but I drive pretty hard.

‘Ting’ noises and pops at low speed are the rear hub, which can also cause erratic handling under power. Torn bushing is harder to ID because it wont usually make noise, but can throw off your alignment and cause odd alignment shifting under load.

I’d get a second opinion if they’re asking to replace all the bushings, but indeed fixing a torn LRCA bushing involves basically disassembling the entire rear suspension on that side, no joke. Hubs arent nearly as bad and it does at least sound like that could be part of your issue.

So maybe go get a second opinion and ask them to look for torn bushings and bad wheel hubs. Our cars are heavy and rubber doesn’t age well. They’ll go eventually. The hubs dont last forever either, just a fact of owning an aging car. Then we can talk about shocks wearing out.

thanks man I will have my tech check that. I am taking it to some one else.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

I have the 18 PP1, Magneride with FP M-5300-W springs, CB005, subframe alignment kit and diff bushings. Nothing done to the front of the car more than the lowering springs. Don't have the strut tower brace as those are not standard on the export models.

I honestly must say I don't feel confident at all with at least how the car feels on the street when being pushed. It feels "wobbly" sometimes it feels like the backend steps out but it is not the tires slipping. Do you know what it can be. I am thinking of installing a bumpsteer kit to ease the front a bit at least. Apart from that I am not sure, don't think caster/camber plates and adjustable camber arms in the rear are needed. Maybe this is the way these cars are? Has something been installed incorrectly? I have yet to find a shop that can clock my bushings....Also I assume I have quite a lot of mechanical grip from the wider tires and the PS4S compound but still slthe car feels unsettled.

Thanks Maz

My guess is you have toe-out on some or all of your wheels.

A bumpsteer kit helps settle the steering very well, adding the full bumpsteer/roll center correction kit is premier.

 

[808muscle]

I have the 18 PP1, Magneride with FP M-5300-W springs, CB005, subframe alignment kit and diff bushings. Nothing done to the front of the car more than the lowering springs. Don't have the strut tower brace as those are not standard on the export models.

I honestly must say I don't feel confident at all with at least how the car feels on the street when being pushed. It feels "wobbly" sometimes it feels like the backend steps out but it is not the tires slipping. Do you know what it can be. I am thinking of installing a bumpsteer kit to ease the front a bit at least. Apart from that I am not sure, don't think caster/camber plates and adjustable camber arms in the rear are needed. Maybe this is the way these cars are? Has something been installed incorrectly? I have yet to find a shop that can clock my bushings....Also I assume I have quite a lot of mechanical grip from the wider tires and the PS4S compound but still slthe car feels unsettled.

Thanks Maz

Before I got my bushings clocked my car felt so wobbly and unsettled. After clocking it was night and day difference. I am 100% satisfied now with my setup. If you cant find a shop to do it then get your car into the air high as possible and do it yourself. You will need an alignment after the clocking. Clocking settles the drop completely and evenly. .I gave the tech a print out of the clocking procedure from the 6g stang forum so he would know exactly what to do. He told me he saw it literally drop and he loosened the hardware.

 

[Mazman]

Hi all

sorry for my absence, I have been traveling through work and it has been quite crazy workload and working hours.
Thank you all for your inputs so far.

I will do an alignment on way or the other.


I contemplating of removing diff bushings to get rid of the NVH and the If I can find a place that can clock the bushings then I'll do that. If I cannot find a place I have to make some higher wheel cribs and try it myself and then do the alignment.
I guess lowering the subframe for the diff-bushings can have some impact on alignment?? The clocking will have impact on the alignment and I don't want to pay for an alignment twice.

I am willing to travel a bit to get some help if need be just need to find a place that knows what they are doing.

Do we have any numbers on where to sit with regards to the alignment for the toe front and rear and the camber on the rear for a more planted feel?

Thanks
Maz

 

[BmacIL]

Hi all

sorry for my absence, I have been traveling through work and it has been quite crazy workload and working hours.
Thank you all for your inputs so far.

I will do an alignment on way or the other.


I contemplating of removing diff bushings to get rid of the NVH and the If I can find a place that can clock the bushings then I'll do that. If I cannot find a place I have to make some higher wheel cribs and try it myself and then do the alignment.
I guess lowering the subframe for the diff-bushings can have some impact on alignment?? The clocking will have impact on the alignment and I don't want to pay for an alignment twice.

I am willing to travel a bit to get some help if need be just need to find a place that knows what they are doing.

Do we have any numbers on where to sit with regards to the alignment for the toe front and rear and the camber on the rear for a more planted feel?

Thanks
Maz

Front Camber and Caster will be where they'll be without plates/bolts. Should end up around -1.4-1.7 camber. Front toe, target 0.00-0.05 per side, steer ahead 0.00. Rear camber target -1.3-1.5, even both sides. Rear toe target 0.10-0.12 per side, 0.20-0.23 total, and thrust angle 0.00.

 

[Bluemustang]

Front Camber and Caster will be where they'll be without plates/bolts. Should end up around -1.4-1.7 camber. Front toe, target 0.00-0.05 per side, steer ahead 0.00. Rear camber target -1.3-1.5, even both sides. Rear toe target 0.10-0.12 per side, 0.20-0.23 total, and thrust angle 0.00.

+1. I bet once the OP gets the bushings re-indexed and following this as a guide for alignment, the aforementioned issues will go away.

 

[Mazman]

Thank you!

Scheduled a visit to a wheel/tire shop for next week. I specifically asked if the can do the clocking and they said yes(fingers crossed)

I'll bring those alignment numbers with me.

Front Camber and Caster will be where they'll be without plates/bolts. Should end up around -1.4-1.7 camber. Front toe, target 0.00-0.05 per side, steer ahead 0.00. Rear camber target -1.3-1.5, even both sides. Rear toe target 0.10-0.12 per side, 0.20-0.23 total, and thrust angle 0.00.

 

[JKL1031]

.1 deg RR toe in..

 

[JKL1031]

These cars r still squatters. Just relax back and enjoy the show..(and be prepared for any counter steering)lol

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