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Hpp vs regular

Some Random Guy

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Forum Team:
I’m having trouble researching the difference between the regular ecoboost and the HPP Ecoboost. I’ve seen the HPP has a larger turbo, but otherwise what are the differences? My amateur research leads me to believe I’m paying for access to the magneride and the factory performance/handling package. I’m capable of doing my own work, so if the turbo and maybe intercooler or radiator is the only engine difference I’m tempted to skip it and go nuts on mods. I’m willing to pay for magneride, but maybe not the full $8k for it. Even if you just help me google/forum search the right terms, I’d really appreciate it.

Edit: Here's what I have so far that isn't listed in the package. It's a different block, with different cooling channels and sleeved cylinders. The head gaskets are not compatible (suggesting the intake is a bit different too as Hanavarian points out below). The turbo is obviously different, but according to ford performance parts it's a direct swap with a standard ecoboost. So anything that works on the standard will work on the HPP.
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Hi-PO Stang

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The HPP has a chassis number assigned to it. There is a front strut tower brace. The fender has a 2.3 liter High Performance emblem on it. The High Performance emblem makes it all worthwhile.
 

JJSSI

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This is without the Handling Package.
2020
2.3L High Performance Package
• 3.55 Limited-slip Rear-Axle
• 19" X 9” Machined-face Aluminum with Low Gloss Ebony
painted pockets Wheel
• 255/40R19 Summer Only Tires2
• Active Valve Performance Exhaust
• Black Painted Strut-Tower Brace
• “Engine Spun” Aluminum Instrument Panel
• Exterior Mirror – Magnetic
• Gauge Pack (Oil Pressure and Boost)
• GT Performance Package Front Splitter and Belly Pan
• Hood Accent Stripe
• Heavy-duty Front Springs
• Larger Brake Rotors with Four-Piston Fixed Calipers
• Larger Radiator
• Raised Blade Decklid Spoiler – Magnetic (Fastback Only)
• Spoiler Delete (Convertible Only)
• Unique Chassis Tuning
• Unique EPAS, ABS and Stability Control Tuning
• Upsized Rear Sway Bar

compression ratio 9.37:1 vs 9.5:1
Larger turbo (same small intercooler)
Speed Limit 145 vs 121

https://media.ford.com/content/dam/...uct/2021/mustang/2021-Mustang-Order-Guide.pdf
 
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ICU812

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A few week ends ago, while at an event, Another Mustang owner with a e/b prem coupe, and I with the E/B hhp with handling package had a little fun on the tracks 5 lane road, that normally gets you to the parting and camping lots.
1500 feet sprint so a little longer than a 1/4 mile.
Both left the traction control and all nannies on, and put the cars in "D" and let the cars do the gear changing.
For Ford only claiming a 22 hp difference 310 to 332 for the HHP. it wasn't even close. It only got worse when we tried turning off the traction control and all nannies, I put mine in track mode 2 not the drag strip mode. and used the paddles, shifted at 6000 rpm.
The hhp might only have a "claimed" 22hp more but the torque curve is much beefer under the peak as it .
We took driver skill out of it, by swapping cars and try'n again.
Ford is mighty proud of the HHP and charges proudly for it. but gap'n the standard e/b by 2+ car lengths .
We may try to meet up at a road course and see what the HHP handling package lap times is over the e/b prem
 
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Some Random Guy

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Last I heard its the RS block that's beefier and sleeved with different top end as well. Nice linear power curve vs FPP and aftermarket tunes.

Access to Magneride on the coupe is huge plus.

I personally trust Ford's engine and chassis $BN car development tuning, especially since Ford is really good at it.

I did order a base, then a month later I added the HPP option, with the only planned mods new dampers and IC, possibly interior and seat upholstery.

If yo up love modding and can do the work yourself and don't care about magneride then HPP is only worth it for mod free resale liquidity and price.
Thanks, I was worried it was the same block with a larger turbo being marketed as a “new engine”. I do care about Magneride, but not $8k for it and a turbo with everything else being work I could have done myself for less.
I have a Wrangler and am kicking myself for buying the Rubicon when I found out I had to tear off everything I paid extra for anyway. The upgraded transfer case and steel bumpers were all that was left of the exterior factory upgrades. Suspension, steering, differentials, wheels, tires, and fenders all replaced or modified.
 

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Some Random Guy

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This is without the Handling Package.
2020
2.3L High Performance Package
• 3.55 Limited-slip Rear-Axle
• 19" X 9” Machined-face Aluminum with Low Gloss Ebony
painted pockets Wheel
• 255/40R19 Summer Only Tires2
• Active Valve Performance Exhaust
• Black Painted Strut-Tower Brace
• “Engine Spun” Aluminum Instrument Panel
• Exterior Mirror – Magnetic
• Gauge Pack (Oil Pressure and Boost)
• GT Performance Package Front Splitter and Belly Pan
• Hood Accent Stripe
• Heavy-duty Front Springs
• Larger Brake Rotors with Four-Piston Fixed Calipers
• Larger Radiator
• Raised Blade Decklid Spoiler – Magnetic (Fastback Only)
• Spoiler Delete (Convertible Only)
• Unique Chassis Tuning
• Unique EPAS, ABS and Stability Control Tuning
• Upsized Rear Sway Bar

compression ratio 9.37:1 vs 9.5:1
Larger turbo (same small intercooler)
Speed Limit 145 vs 121

https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2021/mustang/2021-Mustang-Order-Guide.pdf
Thanks, I missed the radiator upgrade. I think I saw elsewhere the package increases brake cooling too. I do hate body work, I’m pretty bad at it.
 

Son of SVO

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Coyote Chase

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Forum Team:
I’m having trouble researching the difference between the regular ecoboost and the HPP Ecoboost. I’ve seen the HPP has a larger turbo, but otherwise what are the differences? My amateur research leads me to believe I’m paying for access to the magneride and the factory performance/handling package. I’m capable of doing my own work, so if the turbo and maybe intercooler or radiator is the only engine difference I’m tempted to skip it and go nuts on mods. I’m willing to pay for magneride, but maybe not the full $8k for it. Even if you just help me google/forum search the right terms, I’d really appreciate it.
I went with the base Ecoboost Mustang and added my own mods. This has worked for me, mostly due to having only one primary purpose for my car, 1/4 mile track racing.
However, if I was looking for a nice weather driver... I'd probably go with the HPP (premium) Mustang, and keep it factory stock and garaged.
 
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Some Random Guy

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Yeah Ford has their bundling and value perfected in the end I added HPP for the engine, wheels, brakes, front styling plus I drove the vert and it was so impressive overall.
I love the vert, but I can’t get Magneride. I’m also worried I’ll find the chasis not strong enough. The loss of antimatter blue made it easier to plan for a coupe, I loved the blue on blue with the interior stitching on the vert but can’t get it now.
My main goal is a car that I can enjoy on public roads. Speeding is fine to me when nobody is around, but ideally I want to be able to toss it around at low speeds without understeer then punch it when I need to pass or I emerge into an open straight. I never tracked my BRZ like I wanted to, but I might actually get to it with this car now that I’m only working 1 job.
 

TeeLew

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Thanks, I was worried it was the same block with a larger turbo being marketed as a “new engine”. I do care about Magneride, but not $8k for it and a turbo with everything else being work I could have done myself for less.
I'm convinced that the HPP is the same block with a slightly larger turbo & rad and a slightly different head gasket. It also has a little more frisky engine tuning, similar to the FP upgrade map for the base Eco. It is not a closed deck block. FWIW, I dyno'd mine when completely stock and the mapping at WOT was atrocious.

I own an HPP and like it, but I think the best bang/buck is probably a base Eco with mods.
 

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Some Random Guy

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The increased resale value is appealing in case I go nuts and make the jump to a used Blackwing later.
So $8k gets me the following that I wouldn’t be able to do myself (or I lack confidence in doing it well): some minor engine upgrades (cylinder head, turbo, radiator it sounds like), a much better tune, magneride, active exhaust, and some body upgrades I’d be hesitant to do myself.
The following things I’m just saving time on: Sway bars, strut brace, limited slip diff, and upgraded brakes.
I’m having issues finding tunes for the HPP. Do you need an HPP specific tune? This will be new for me. All the computer work I did on my Jeep was just sensor related from the diffs/tires, nothing to adjust engine behavior.
 

ICU812

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Just to have the RS motor DNA in a comfortable package is an emotional plus haha.

No one really knows how's it's evolved since 2019 or what it is today apparently made in USA now, presumably with same tooling and parts they always make ample extras of, especially for active motorsport engines.

@ ICU812's results are really the only thing that matters and the gap is unbelievable frankly. Sure the gearing is different but the bottom end pull really seems to make the difference.

Both are nice cars. I would have been happy with the base , an extremely smooth and quiet car, but thought what the heck, I'll take the extras 200 lb over my 19" wheel spec's base, and tack on PP.

Far easier and zero outcome risk than all the down time and hassle of FPP at dealer, new dampers / springs and various bits, and other stuff that would only depreciate the car at sale time even though I plan to keep for a while and may send to EU at some point (where mods are a no go or must be TUV approved)

It's just a cruiser for me, though I do floor my cars most of the time off the line if have the room so bottom end is most important to me...0-30 street race haha.
I got the E/B HHP because I priced/built a e/b prem the way I'd want it, then a GT prem the way I'd want it.
Thought 53k+ for a pony car a tad much not including the covid upcharge the dealers later wanted over the msrp.
The Left over E/b HHP was cheaper than the E/B prem the way I would option it out, and the E/B HHP I bought had all the stuff I'd have checked off anyways. So it was like getting the HHp engine paackage and HHP handling package/magnaride for free. Ya it was a year old new left over, but I tend to keep vehicles long term so the value loss buying a last year model year was not a down side.
For a fair weather car it is more than fast enough, And unlike my other fast vehicle that is a tad temper mental to start, and deal with in traffic (late 80's cup 357 v8) As it doesn't like rpm under 3000 rpm, heck it doesn't really get up on the cam till 5300rpm
 

ICU812

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The increased resale value is appealing in case I go nuts and make the jump to a used Blackwing later.
So $8k gets me the following that I wouldn’t be able to do myself (or I lack confidence in doing it well): some minor engine upgrades (cylinder head, turbo, radiator it sounds like), a much better tune, magneride, active exhaust, and some body upgrades I’d be hesitant to do myself.
The following things I’m just saving time on: Sway bars, strut brace, limited slip diff, and upgraded brakes.
I’m having issues finding tunes for the HPP. Do you need an HPP specific tune? This will be new for me. All the computer work I did on my Jeep was just sensor related from the diffs/tires, nothing to adjust engine behavior.
I learned a while ago, Even if I can do the upgrades, and have the funds, finding time gets in the way, with family,work,life,etc. Sometimes it is just best to get it already factory hot rod'd, than get it, order parts, wait till you have them all, then try to find time to get it done.
Sure the install directions state over a week end, but that is with all the fancy tools and no one needing you for anything else all week end. Life rarely works that way.
 
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Some Random Guy

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I learned a while ago, Even if I can do the upgrades, and have the funds, finding time gets in the way, with family,work,life,etc. Sometimes it is just best to get it already factory hot rod'd, than get it, order parts, wait till you have them all, then try to find time to get it done.
Sure the install directions state over a week end, but that is with all the fancy tools and no one needing you for anything else all week end. Life rarely works that way.
Yeah, I’m pretty sure I’m just smarting from the Wrangler. I also have a LOT of vacation built up thanks to COVID, but maybe I’ll go nuts and use it for track time instead!
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