Help Removing Surface Scratches By Hand

[sk47]

You won't be getting results by hand. Todays clear coat finishes require friction. In my shop I use #3000 grit wet sand followed by a 4 stage high speed compound and polish. I do this work daily. To do it with less than a high speed polisher, would be chasing your tail. Go see a pro instead of trying to save a buck.

Hello; I like you post. I have used 2000 grit paper but never 3000. Been a couple of decades since I painted a car. I figured things have changed and that is why i have not recommended specific products. I used 3M stuff back in the day.

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[DFB5.0]

The scratches are pretty light and not deep at all actually but they stand out in certain lighting because they are hairline scratches all closely together (like a barcode) making it appear like a scuff. I think I'll just wait until my next detailing wash that includes a polymer buff polish.
My go to shop calls it a "Full Synthetic Polymer Buff Polish", Will this be sufficient on it to remove?

That is a fancy way of saying "All-in-One", meaning it's a light abrasive polish combined with a polymer sealant. This will remove some of scratches and fill (disguise) any remaining.

I think you over thinking this, I know it can be daunting, but those scratches will be easily removed (by hand or machine) with a quality polish used on either an appropriate applicator or even a folded microfiber towel.

 

[ay1820]

That is a fancy way of saying "All-in-One", meaning it's a light abrasive polish combined with a polymer sealant. This will remove some of scratches and fill (disguise) any remaining.

I think you over thinking this, I know it can be daunting, but those scratches will be easily removed (by hand or machine) with a quality polish used on either an appropriate applicator or even a folded microfiber towel.

I tend to agree that this is something that can be easily addressed, but I also know from my own past experience that there are a lot of ways for a newbie to easily and quickly make thing much worse. A new Mustang is probably not the place for someone to start out unless they have a someone with some experience helping them out.

 

[lizardrko]

I am not a fan of All in One polishes. I want my scratches removed, not filled. I want to put my own protection on the paint afterwards.

 

[Firsttexan]

Hello; I like you post. I have used 2000 grit paper but never 3000. Been a couple of decades since I painted a car. I figured things have changed and that is why i have not recommended specific products. I used 3M stuff back in the day.

Papers go up to 5000 now. I use anywhere from 1500 to 3000 depending on the depth of the scratches. No need to go deeper than required. I use the 3m 0-3 system. 3m in most cases are superior to the other commercial competition.

 

[codemanstang]

In my experience polishing by physical hand not only takes more work, worse results but you can also cause damage because of uneven pressure too much and focusing on one spot.

a DA like griots 6in with some meguiars m205/105 will do wonders. And it’s mush safer to use. Watch a few videos the results are amazing and even newbs can get that result. It’s extremely hard to burn through clear coat with a DA

 

[Albertcado]

I am not a fan of All in One polishes. I want my scratches removed, not filled. I want to put my own protection on the paint afterwards.

Will this type of polish that my detail shop offers only fill/hide the clear coat scratches and not actually get rid of them? "Full Synthetic Polymer Buff Polish"
I guess I can show them the scratches and ask before I get the detail and hope they are honest...

 

[Ecto1]

Can I use a microfiber towel to apply and work in?

I've used various applicators. Started with cotton rags, graduated to what were known as foam applicators, then terry cloth enclosed foam, and finally microfiber wrapped foam. The microfiber wrapped foam seem to work great but the surface wears out quickly. The terry cloth wrapped foam were my favorite but I haven't seen these available in the last few years.

The all foam and microfiber wrapped foam gather dirt and small particles easily and are impossible to extract. Once the particles are in the pad or microfiber you'll end up adding more scratches than you remove. The terry doesn't collect the particles as easily and are much easier to clean out. The terry fabric also seems to hold up a lot longer than the microfiber.

You can certainly use a damp microfiber towel but I'd pick up a pair of terry or microfiber wrapped foam applicators. They're sized better and don't require lots of folding/turning/refolding while using them. I've gotten them at my local Walmart for only a few bucks.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Drive-Car-Wash-Microfiber-Applicator-Pads-2-Pack-Blue/16817502

 

[Jackismydog]

As you do not seems to know the paint correction process. Just pay someone to do it! I'm sure that in your area there is a detailer that has the knowledge and all the necessary tools and products to properly do the job. I also read that you plan to sell the car so for me a pro detailer is a no brainer.

 

[Damonfl]

I am a novice at this but I picked up Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound - 15.2 oz. and this Meguiar's Quik Scratch Eraser... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVL7YSG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I didn’t have scratches but some dull spots from sandpaper attempting to repair a touch up job gone bad. The ultimate compound with the foam pad drill adapter worked wonders. I would not want to steer you wrong but I achieved excellent results using a fairly powerful electric drill with the above. I did not achieve anything at all by hand or with a battery operated drill. I would defer to others here with more experience if my method is advisable.

 

[DFB5.0]

I am a novice at this but I picked up Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound - 15.2 oz. and this Meguiar's Quik Scratch Eraser... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVL7YSG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I didn’t have scratches but some dull spots from sandpaper attempting to repair a touch up job gone bad. The ultimate compound with the foam pad drill adapter worked wonders. I would not want to steer you wrong but I achieved excellent results using a fairly powerful electric drill with the above. I did not achieve anything at all by hand or with a battery operated drill. I would defer to others here with more experience if my method is advisable.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I feel using that drill attachment is going to be the riskiest of all the advice given in this thread so far, especially considering the OP's lack of experience or confidence in doing paint correction.

That attachment is effectively a rotary machine, a type of polishing best left to professionals or those with extensive polishing experience, even I'm scared of rotary. This is especially important for the OP of this thread as the he is concerned about the safety of using a polish by hand, let alone by a dual action polisher or an aggressive rotary method.

Not saying you didn't get the desired results, but it would be easy to burn through the clear coat unless appropriate care is taken. Last thing I would want is the OP coming back into this thread with clear coat failure.

 

[kilobravo]

Amen, brutha.

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