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GT500 engine + DcT in a GT350 doable?

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T7TheLama

T7TheLama

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Is the pedal box of the GT350 different to the GT etc.?
The GT etc. habe this clutch spring assist:
As far is i know the pedal box assembly is the same. I also have the same clutch spring in place as you have, but i need a second one because now i don't have the hydraulic pressure from the slave cylinder.
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The clutch is no longer there or is a dummy, you don't need the pedal, right?
Then remove the spring and guide and stow the pedal in the actuated position.
Should be good enough to be out of the way.

No clue how much effort it would be, to change to the AT pedal box?
Maybe worth confirming?
 
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The clutch is no longer there or is a dummy, you don't need the pedal, right?
Then remove the spring and guide and stow the pedal in the actuated position.
Should be good enough to be out of the way.

No clue how much effort it would be, to change to the AT pedal box?
Maybe worth confirming?
I still plan on using mine. I technically don’t need it but this tcu controller allows you to manually acutate the clutch inside the auto gearbox for clutch kicks and revving. So i need to mount a spring instead of the hydraulic pressure with an additional sensor (linear position sensor) for the controller.
 

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@mavisky Drag racing is not so big over here.
NĂĽrburgring and other larger and smaller circuits are, what we build cars for over here.
Of course there is also a drag racing community or a drift racing community etc. over here, but 'propper' racing is more a thing for the masses.
My impression is, this is OPs goal, not to go fast in a straight line.
...and than there are still special niches like hill climp etc. where a modified Mustang would also be a fun thing, if there is a matching class.
 

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@mavisky Drag racing is not so big over here.
NĂĽrburgring and other larger and smaller circuits are, what we build cars for over here.
Of course there is also a drag racing community or a drift racing community etc. over here, but 'propper' racing is more a thing for the masses.
My impression is, this is OPs goal, not to go fast in a straight line.
...and than there are still special niches like hill climp etc. where a modified Mustang would also be a fun thing, if there is a matching class.
I posted that in the wrong thread. Had too many windows open.
 

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OP, when I put the built 4r70w with trans brake in my 03 Cobra years ago I re-used my clutch pedal in a similar way except it activated the trans brake when pushed in. I went to a farm supply store and bought a few different coil springs with different spring rates that had an open eyelet hook on each end. I drilled a small hole in the top of the pedal arm hooked the spring in it and stretched it slightly up to another hole already in the brackets above and hooked the other end there. It took a couple different springs to get the right feel, but found one perfect to return the pedal to the fully released position. I ended up adding a rubber bump stop to lessen the harsh return when the pedal would release and it slammed open. Voila a clutch pedal that will return despite being connected to nothing. Not sure how similar the wiring would be but I cut the clutch position sensor wires from the switch and used them to trigger the neutral/start safety when starting the car. I then took the clutch position sensor switch (continuity switch) and wired the ground wire off the trans brake relay so it would trigger the trans brake when the clutch pedal was depressed. Dump the clutch pedal and it’s go time. If your E-clutch needs the same and is just an On/Off type switch you could do the same. However if the E-clutch uses a variable position and is not just an On/Off switch then you will need to do something similar to a drive by wire throttle sensor switch. Hope something above helps. BTW it took me 3-4 different springs to find the right one lol.
You also have changed my direction I was going to take with putting a BMW 7 speed DCT in my Cobra and am now going with the ZF 8HP after reading more up on it. I eventually am going to get a GT350 and probably follow your lead with either the 8HP or the DCT as well. So I am following your progress quite closely.

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Why not just put the GT350 fenders on the GT500 and save a lot of hassle.
 

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OP, when I put the built 4r70w with trans brake in my 03 Cobra years ago I re-used my clutch pedal in a similar way except it activated the trans brake when pushed in. I went to a farm supply store and bought a few different coil springs with different spring rates that had an open eyelet hook on each end. I drilled a small hole in the top of the pedal arm hooked the spring in it and stretched it slightly up to another hole already in the brackets above and hooked the other end there. It took a couple different springs to get the right feel, but found one perfect to return the pedal to the fully released position. I ended up adding a rubber bump stop to lessen the harsh return when the pedal would release and it slammed open. Voila a clutch pedal that will return despite being connected to nothing. Not sure how similar the wiring would be but I cut the clutch position sensor wires from the switch and used them to trigger the neutral/start safety when starting the car. I then took the clutch position sensor switch (continuity switch) and wired the ground wire off the trans brake relay so it would trigger the trans brake when the clutch pedal was depressed. Dump the clutch pedal and it’s go time. If your E-clutch needs the same and is just an On/Off type switch you could do the same. However if the E-clutch uses a variable position and is not just an On/Off switch then you will need to do something similar to a drive by wire throttle sensor switch. Hope something above helps. BTW it took me 3-4 different springs to find the right one lol.
You also have changed my direction I was going to take with putting a BMW 7 speed DCT in my Cobra and am now going with the ZF 8HP after reading more up on it. I eventually am going to get a GT350 and probably follow your lead with either the 8HP or the DCT as well. So I am following your progress quite closely.

Thanks,
Ken
I’m was planing something similar. Found a old rusty spring and tried it out today and it works! Just need a higher force spring the one i currently tried is just 6 kgs.

First i removed the clutch master which is no longer needed. ( Now I need to print a backplate that seals the open hole)
For the spring mount itself i use the existing bolt that the clutch master cylinder uses and the other end the metal core that holds the dashboard that already had a convenient hole in place.

The only thing is i need to extend the stopper pin because otherwise the pedal retracts 2cm above the brake pedal.
The neutral safety is just a push button that stays in place and works as it should.

Later down the line when i wire in the linear position sensor i will probably also use the bolt for the master cylinder to the printed backplate.

I included a stock photo from ebay to illustrate the setup(Linear position sensor and backplate not in the drawing)

IMG_9111.jpeg
 

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Regarding the springs you can find some info there: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/clutch-adjustment.192403/post-3862379

I can imagine, that installing a stronger spring than the one fitted from factorsy on the GT will overstress the entire mechanics of the pedal box.
The stock pedal spring stays in place. The other Spring should approximatly have the same force as the hydraulic pressure on the pedal. So i think mechanically it should be fine. -knock on wood
 

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Ok, thought you wanted to replace the normal spring with a stronger one. 👍
 
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Finished the outside of the car. Everything works and no more errors on the dash. The shifts are smooth in program mode 1 and no more weird gearbox sounds.

The last things i do is the clutch pedal linear position sensor which i already have and the paddle shifters that arrive tomorrow.

I also changed brake rotors, pads and calipers.

When it its warmer i will do a proper test and i hope the car will pass the TĂśV technical inspection :D

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