Fore return fuel system install

[doodguy]

Only one way to find out. Put fuel through it and check for leaks.

If this is the connector that plugged into the factory hat, then yes. Two smaller wires are for sending unit. Yellow/Grey == 12v+, White/Brown == Ground.

How many wires are coming out of the top of the hat? 4? 6? I have twin-pump hat and just have the 4-pin connector (two reds, two blacks -- one for each pump). If you have six wires coming out of the hat, then yes, I'd assume one black/red pair is for primary pump, the other two pairs are for second & third pump...or vice versa. 4 wires are for primary/secondary pump. Third pair is for third pump & hobbs switch.

For a ground, I used the chassis ground on the existing fuel pump relay (that big plug to the right of your fuel pump hat). The bolt nearest the door is chassis ground.

They're not silly questions. Did you get an opportunity to ask Fore? Purely a guess, so don't take my word as Gospel.

Battery Power == 12V off battery Here is the path I took to wire this https://imgur.com/a/FbWvK

Chassis Ground == You can run this through the same path above to battery, or you can go over to the chassis ground I just mentioned.

Pump 1, Pump 2, Pump 3 are the big 10ga red/black pairs in pictures 3/4. You need to figure out if you're going to run one or two pumps always on.

For the remote pump one, Yellow/Grey wire.

For the remote pump 2 & 3, hobbs switch.

I put my hobbs switch in the battery box. I put my regulator on the back of the blower. https://goo.gl/photos/zqizUNetTohGR8Q26

I'm reading through this with a fine comb. . . Can you please clarify a couple things for me?

When you mention the white/brown and yellow/grey is power, how do I know which is which on the fuel pump or does that matter? Out of the fuel pump they are both just black.

Also, I've called a few advance auto parts and oreilleys and they don't know what the locking ring tool is called. I got it off with hammer and screwdriver but getting it on seems to be a pain in the ass. The tool is $50 on amazon which I don't want to pay for 1 time use. Any tips there? Am I calling it the wrong name?

There are 6 wires coming out of the hat.

When you say I need to figure out if I will run 1 or 2 pumps always on, which is best? My street tune will be between 700 and 800rwhp my race tune will be around 1000rwhp with smaller pulley.

Last question for now is "for remote pump 1 yellow/grey" are you referring to the yellow/grey wire on the pump relay? I just cut that wire and splice it on on the side that comes from the car wiring right?

Thanks again for your detailed responses! Hopefully this will help others as well.

Sponsored

 

[esacteksab]

When you mention the white/brown and yellow/grey is power, how do I know which is which on the fuel pump or does that matter? Out of the fuel pump they are both just black.

If you're talking about the two lines for the sending unit, it doesn't matter which is which. If you're talking about the larger 10g wires for power/ground for the pump, it's documented elsewhere on the forum, and a manual would likely highlight it in a schematic.

Also, I've called a few advance auto parts and oreilleys and they don't know what the locking ring tool is called. I got it off with hammer and screwdriver but getting it on seems to be a pain in the ass. The tool is $50 on amazon which I don't want to pay for 1 time use. Any tips there? Am I calling it the wrong name?

Ran into this myself. Got it off with hammer & screw driver. To put it back on, it took two of us. A big pair of channel lock pliers and the same hammer and screw driver. Used the pliers to squeeze things together, while the other person drove the screw driver with the hammer. Keep at it, slowly but surely you'll get it.

When you say I need to figure out if I will run 1 or 2 pumps always on, which is best? My street tune will be between 700 and 800rwhp my race tune will be around 1000rwhp with smaller pulley.

This largely seems to be a personal preference honestly. I don't know anyone personally who has 3 pumps who isn't a shop car. And I know people who run two all the time, and I know people who run one always on and trigger the 2nd with a hobbs switch. The thing that bothered me, two pumps == more heat. But two pumps == redundancy. Seems like you're damned if you do and damned if you don't. Also, not sure who is tuning it, but people often say "ask your tuner". I know my tuner tunes both, he had no preference either way. Even with a hobbs switch, to be anywhere near that 700-800 HP, you're going to be in enough boost to activate the 2nd/3rd pump.

Last question for now is "for remote pump 1 yellow/grey" are you referring to the yellow/grey wire on the pump relay? I just cut that wire and splice it on on the side that comes from the car wiring right?

This is my belief anyway, but I'm a person on the internet who has never used Fore's block. Your best bet is to ask Fore or the shop who sold you this kit if you didn't buy directly from Fore. If you're not getting support from either, than I'd start to question why you just spent all that money with them.

 

[doodguy]

Hey guys should the main power fuse go close to battery or close to the fore wire connection hub?

 

[doodguy]

Another question. Can we run main power feed to fuse panel or does it have to connect to where the battery connects?

 

[doodguy]

Hey all, going to post a few questions in here maybe clear a few things up for all if you don't mind.

Is there anything wrong with me running the power wire for the fore controller to this spot on my fuse panel?

 

[doodguy]

I don't know what this piece is called, but is there any issue running the ground to the nut on the right side of this piece?

 

[doodguy]

Is this the yellow/grey wire I tap into to turn pump 1 on?

The wire goes into the connector. When I cut it there will be a side from engine bay and a side to connector. Will the side to connector need to be reconnected? I saw mention of T-ing this wire off. Just want to ensure I connect this properly?

 

[doodguy]

Last question; the hobbs switch has 2 wires, but the activator for pump 2/3 only has one slot. Do I plug both of these wires into the 2/3 spot or just 1 wire or what makes sense here?

 

[bklynpanman]

Any update?

 

[doodguy]

Any update?

What kind of update?

 

[bklynpanman]

Dos you figure out the right way to wire the Hobbs switch

 

[doodguy]

Dos you figure out the right way to wire the Hobbs switch

I think so. Need to get my motor back before I'll know for sure but fore advised me to splice 1 end of the wire into pump 1 activate on controller and the 2nd wrote goes into pump 2/3 activate.

 

[beefcake]

Looks like you can get -8 for both feed & return or you can get -10 for feed and -8 for return. If you have two different sizes, then bigger size is feed, smaller is return.

BTW, -10 == 5/8, -8 == 1/2.

Bottom of that regulator, smaller line, back to "return" port on fuel hat.

I put my fuel filter in-line on the feed line.

My advice, lay everything out on the floor and ensure you have the proper fittings before cutting anything.

Connecting the rails can be done many different ways, so it depends on fittings/lines/etc as to what the expectation was as to how that was supposed to be hooked up. But to give you some insight into how mine is done

Out of both sides of the regular, go to the front of the fuel rails. Rear rails are Y'd off the feed.

My phone/Dropbox are being stupid, but I'll try and get a picture if you don't understand.

https://goo.gl/photos/ELGnbKHveyaXPovF7 << "schematic" of fuel system.

yes, we offer the systems with 10 or 8 feed, for e85 guys, i usually say, spend the extra few bucks and get the 10, don't have to, but saves $ later if you get crazy and need more

 

[christian]

Install went well but now my battery is dying? Any ideas guys?

 

[doodguy]

How did you hook your power cable? I ran mine to my fuse box

Sponsored