Fore return fuel system install

[isedawishy]

I couldn't find any detailed install threads, so wanted to log progress as I go through the install.

I'll be installing,

• Fore level 1 return fuel system
  • F1i fuel pressure regulator
  • dual TI Auto F90000267 pumps
  • FC2 controller
  • -8 feed & return
  • 88mm inline cellulose filter
  • FCV checkvalve
  • pressure gauge

When I removed everything from the package I realized that I didn't order a filter bracket and ordered one from Amazon - LINK, though where I mounted the fuel filter there was not enough room for the mount.

You will need a couple extra things to complete the install,

• Highly recommend a vacuum block, especially if you plan on utilizing a Hobbs switch and/or manual boost gauge
• FC2 controller does not come with bolts or screws to mount it
• FC2 controller fuse does not come with bolts or screws to mount it
• Electrical tape for various wiring and cutting the fuel lines
• Highly recommend cable cutters to cut the fuel lines. I purchased some from Home Depot and they were only $18- LINK
• 5/16 rubber vacuum cap if retaining OEM fuel line
• E85 tester - LINK

• The goods!

• Housing with the 2 TI Auto pumps

• FC2 controller & wiring kit

• Inline filter

• F1i fuel pressure regulator

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[isedawishy]

• First, go ahead and get your car secure on jack stands

• Remove the strut brace if it's a performance pack car
• Remove engine cover

• Remove the battery and put it on a tender if you have one available

• Remove the back seat and place it somewhere safe

• Unplug both the electrical connection and the fuel line from the fuel pump assembly

• At this point you will need to remove the fuel pump locking ring by tapping the outside tabs counter clock-wise

• I was not comfortable using a screwdriver as my tap and a piece of wood did not work for me. I ended up going to the parts store and renting a kit which included a brass tap
  • If you wish to disconnect the OEM fuel line by the engine, this kit includes the tool to do it

• Once the locking ring is off, carefully lift up the fuel pump assembly at an angle, as the fuel level sensor is horizontal. Also, disconnect the line which attaches to the bottom left of the assembly

• Push down on the tab to disconnect the fuel level sensor, cut both purple wires about 2" above the sensor and remove the sensor

• Slide the fuel level sensor onto the Fore fuel pump assembly and crimp the purple wires onto the included connectors

• Drop the Fore fuel pump assembly into the tank and re-install the locking ring by tapping it clockwise

• Cut the two smaller wires from the OEM connection and splice them into the included connectors from the Fore fuel pump assembly

 

[isedawishy]

• At this point, it's time to find a location to mount the regulator
  • Unlike the S197 I could not mount it near the firewall on the driver side, so chose an OEM mount point on the strut tower

• Also purchased a 45 degree elbow to mount the fuel pressure gauge in a more friendly manner

• If you have a BAP installed, you'll want to go ahead and remove it

• You may now be left with a wire that's a bit short, so you may need to build some type of a T to reconnect it and provide remote to the FC2.
  • This violet/green wire is the one in which I used to tie in my BAP
  • Fore advised to consult with my tuner to ensure the trigger selection is aligned with their tuning strategy
  • Verified that the violet/green wire will constantly prime the pumps. You will want to tape into the yellow/grey wire for your remote wire as per TBR
    

• There may have been an easier way to create the T than soldering them together, but I didn't feel like running to the parts store

• Where circled I cut a piece of the seal off so the Fore wiring would fit through. I'm hoping this won't bring smells into the cabin. I'll report back if it does and figure out how to fix it then

• Remove your front driver-side wheel and remove the wheel liner
  • I only remove half of the push pins and just pulled it back out of the way
  • Circled is where i'll be passing the fuel lines through

• Moving underneath the car, there will be a couple covers which you'll need to remove on the driver-side
  • A couple of the bolts are torx, so have those bits handy

• With those trim pieces removed you'll have exposed an area in which you can mount your fuel filter and lines

• At this point I tried to remove the OEM fuel line, but was not successful. I believe the only way to remove it is to lower the tank, so i'm just going to leave the line as it is except disconnect it on the firewall

• Take your new fuel line and run it from inside the vehicle and pull it from underneath
• Route it as shown, pull up enough to ensure it'll reach your regulator and secure it for now

• Determine where you'd like your fuel filter mounted and mark it off. You will want to make the cut at the front of the vehicle, so the extra slack can be pulled up from inside the vehicle
  • You may want to mock the fuel filter up and then test fit the cover you removed earlier to ensure it fits

• Wrap the cut area in black electrical tape. It works much better than masking tape, as i've learned

• You'll now want to make your cut. I tried several different methods and finally got fed up and ran to the hardware store to find a better solution
  • Leave the tape on at this point! It's much easier to get the compression nut from the hose end on with it

• Save yourself the trouble and go buy these - LINK

• In regards to assembling the hose end onto the fuel line, Fore has instructions that come with the kit and I won't go into detail there

• Once the fuel filter is connected and secure, connect the line to one of the pressure ports on the regulator

• I found it best in my case to route the lines through here

• Cut the fuel line from within the vehicle and connect the line to the pressure port on the fuel pump assembly
  • Make sure you have enough slack before making the cut!

• Run the remaining fuel line through the same area as before from within the vehicle and follow the routing of the other

• Connect the line to the return port on the regulator, cut the fuel line from within the vehicle and connect to the return port on the fuel pump assembly

 

[isedawishy]

• Now that the fuel lines are ran to the Fore assembly re-install the seal. Keep in mind there is an arrow which helps you to align it in the proper manner

• As I mentioned earlier, I had trouble removing the OEM fuel line. I believe that it's necessary to lower the fuel tank to get it out, which I did not want to address at the time. What I could do though was remove the line from the fuel rail and use the rental tool I got to remove it from the firewall

• Next, you'll want to build your fuel line and connect from the regulator to the OEM rail
  • Ensure that you have some slack in the line, as your motor will move around and the last thing you want is to rip it out
  • Test fit your engine cover along the way to set it up how you'd like
  • I need to grab a cap from the parts store to close off the OEM fuel line, circled

• Now that all of the new fuel lines are installed, let's move back underneath the car to tuck them away
  • I highly recommend to zip tie the lines to mock out placement and ensuring the OEM covers fit before screwing the mounts in

• When installed, you should have something that looks like this

 

[isedawishy]

• Lund was quick to respond when I asked where I should tap for vacuum. They responded the next day and highlighted some spots
  • They advised that anything after a check valve won't see boost

• I chose the location on the right and had to end up going to the hardware store to build a 1/2x1/2x1/4 barb to run the line
  • I would highly recommend picking up a vacuum block to keep everything nice and clean. In addition, it'd make life much easier if trying to run a Hobbs switch and a manual boost gauge

• I also picked up a variety pack of vacuum caps to cap off the OEM fuel line
  • I believe it to be a 5/16 cap

• It's now time to move to electrical work and Fore advises to either tin the wires or use pin terminals. I don't have any pin terminals handy, so am just tinning

• After prepping, go ahead and remove your passenger side wheel and pull back the wheel well

• Push the power wire, terminal side, through the existing opening. I found it much easier to lay underneath to feel for the wire on the other side of the frame to pull it through

• Pull enough to ensure it will attach to the battery and then go back underneath the vehicle. Trim the OEM firewall grommet and push the wire through

• After a few attempts you should see the wire go through the grommet and you can now guide it all the way through

• Push the grommet back into place and tape up the area to ensure it's re-sealed

• Re-install passenger wheel well and wheel

 

[isedawishy]

• I chose to mount my FC2 where the BAP was installed to utilize some of the existing holes
  • I ordered some Fatmat and touch up paint, as there are some extra holes now and it may quiet down the exhaust from inside

• Re-install your battery, load your tune and give it a go!

• Some final notes,
  • Whatever fuel system you're thinking about getting, do yourself a favor and get the next stage. I ended up later adding on fuel rails and honestly should go with triple pumps
  • Upon triggering ignition power for the first time I had a leak at the regulator, which sprayed fuel everywhere. Ensure all your connections are snug!
  • I originally tapped into the violet/green wire as remote to the FC2, as I had my BAP tied in there. The violet/green wire will constantly prime your pumps. TBR advised to use yellow/grey, so I will swap it over
  • Where I mounted the regulator the strut brace won't fit. I purchased some metal brackets from Amazon and bent them to shape. Fits now!

Overall, the install will take a bit of time to hide everything away and do it cleanly. I'm hoping this thread will help you through the process and make it a bit quicker than it took me.

Good luck and don't forget some ibuprofen; you're going to be spending a lot of time in some awkward angles inside the car! :lol:

 

[evo8904]

Wow! Thanks bro! You make this look easy! I might make the switch to e85 now.

 

[isedawishy]

Next up is doing the lines and wiring everything. It's really not too terrible, getting the locking ring off was the most difficult.

It probably didn't help I was trying to loosen it the wrong way at first :(

I'd highly recommend getting the FC2 if doing dual pumps and the FC3 if triple. It will make the wiring a lot easier.

 

[bklynpanman]

You are running 2 pumps all the time ? I was advised against this big time

 

[isedawishy]

Yes, Fore did advise that I'd be generating 450 watts of heat into the fuel. I don't daily drive the car though.

Maybe I'll switch to a Hobbs switch later if needed.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Excellent tech DIY - precise instructions, describes tools needed and great pics for folks to follow along - really great info for future reference.

Slightly off topic:
Being the previous owner of a few BMW's, it's great to see Ford implement the access to the fuel pump via the interior from under back seat - sooooo much easier!!! If any of you owned a Mustang prior to 2005, you all knew the only way to access a Ford fuel pump on Mustangs (and other Ford products) was to drop the entire tank down...

 

[isedawishy]

Easier for sure! I had the pleasure of changing a couple fox body fuel pumps in the past.

 

[Dark Horse GT]

Great write up! I really appreciate the attention to detail and the photos are great! :cheers:

 

[terryj]

You ran the power through the cabin or under the car? I couldn't really tell. I like that light under your hood. I'm old and blind I definitely need something like that.

 

[isedawishy]

You ran the power through the cabin or under the car? I couldn't really tell. I like that light under your hood. I'm old and blind I definitely need something like that.

It's ran in the cabin. The grommet is about where the top of the floormat rests.

I picked up the light from Amazon and I love it. I use it a lot underneath the car as well.

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