Ford Performance Track Suspension - No Rear Drop

Exploded_Muffin

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Hi all,

I installed the Ford Performance Track Suspension on my 2020 Mustang GT about 3 months ago. I installed this along with the BMR CB762 and BMR CB010 kits.
While the front end of the car dropped, the rear end hardly dropped and hasn't in the 4,000 or so miles I've put on.

I did not have the suspension loaded when I was torquing down the bolts at the front or rear end and I've seen some threads about 'clocking the bushings':

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...hose-bushings-after-lowering-your-s550.44129/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt-suspension-torque-numbers.47084/

I mentioned this to the tech guy while I was getting an alignment but he didn't really know what I was talking about.

I just need some input if I'm on the right track to sorting this out (regarding clocking the bushings) or if it could be something else (Wrong springs from Ford? BMR kits raising ride height? though these seem unlikely)

I'll be getting ramps and clocking the bushings myself at home as a first step

Thanks for any input

Front wheels & Tires (SVE SP2 19x10 with Michelin PSS 275/35/R19)
Rear wheels & Tires (SVE SP2 19x11 with Michelin PSS 305/35/R19)

20210522_113932.jpg
20210522_113852.jpg

 

Roadway 5.0

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Interesting; with those sized staggered tires you should have nearly identical gap front and rear.

Clocking bushings can certainly help...you really need a lift though if you do it on your own. That is a serious workout requiring odd access angles and a bunch of leverage.

Have you removed any weight from the rear of the car?
 

1 old racer

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Are you sure it didnt drop it a little? The F.P track set up does drop it a little more in the front then in the rear. and the 305/35-19's are about the same dia as the stock 275/40's. The gap looks about right to me.
 
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Exploded_Muffin

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Interesting; with those sized staggered tires you should have nearly identical gap front and rear.

Clocking bushings can certainly help...you really need a lift though if you do it on your own. That is a serious workout requiring odd access angles and a bunch of leverage.

Have you removed any weight from the rear of the car?
Don't have access to any lifts where I can work on the car myself and the two alignment companies I spoke to hadn't heard of 'clocking bushings' even after explaining it to them and it's purpose.
I did my headers on jack stands so I should be able to tackle this on ramps if I need to.
I haven't taken out anything at all from the rear, just changed the exhaust system which is negligible weight pertaining to the ride height


make sure the rear springs are in their perch correctly
I believe I did so correctly when I did the install but I'll take some pictures when I get under the car and post them here to verify

Are you sure it didnt drop it a little? The F.P track set up does drop it a little more in the front then in the rear. and the 305/35-19's are about the same dia as the stock 275/40's. The gap looks about right to me.
It dropped very slightly and you're correct that the F.P. track suspension has a bit more drop in front but the front dropped significantly more than the rear. The wheel gap difference is more pronounced in real life, I'll get some actual measurements.


Thanks for the input and help guys, I'll verify that the springs are seated properly before getting into clocking the bushings
 

NightmareMoon

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You really do have to clock the bushings, the car won’t completely settle w/o doing that, the bushings are powerful enough to keep the car lifted that much (unless they’re damaged).
 

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What bushing do you need to clock on the rear when all you did was remove the bolts that homd the subframe , lower the suframe and remove the shocks and sway bar. Remove the oem spring and put in the new one. Then everything goes back togather. Am I missing sonething?
 

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And sorry about the poor texting on my last responce.iam using a cell phone with small button with fat old fingers
 

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If you look closely at the splitter it is angled up. This caused front end rise at speed. I left my rear at stock height and lowered the front. This stopped my front end floating at speed.

This is on my car 2017 yours may not be angled up, but I would think they all are.
 

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wangfuco

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Sorry for reviving this thread, but I have also seen this lack of rear drop. The stance of my car is exactly the same as yours. I'm on the latest revision of the track spring. M-5300-YA
 
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Exploded_Muffin

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Sorry for reviving this thread, but I have also seen this lack of rear drop. The stance of my car is exactly the same as yours. I'm on the latest revision of the track spring. M-5300-YA
Yea it's the springs. A couple other forum members had the same issue as well.
Ford possibly changed something recently, not sure why.
I switched the springs out for the BMR SP083 and the car sits perfectly now
 

wangfuco

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Yea it's the springs. A couple other forum members had the same issue as well.
Ford possibly changed something recently, not sure why.
I switched the springs out for the BMR SP083 and the car sits perfectly now
TBH this is so annoying... Who would've looked this up before buying OE upgrade springs?

With this ride height it's hard to put the rear camber even pass -1.5deg. I'll probably also go SP083 if I didn't see anything wrong with the rear arms themselves.

Cheers!
 

PC_GUARD

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TBH this is so annoying... Who would've looked this up before buying OE upgrade springs?

With this ride height it's hard to put the rear camber even pass -1.5deg. I'll probably also go SP083 if I didn't see anything wrong with the rear arms themselves.

Cheers!
Sp083 linear spring is pretty firm, great track spring apparently. I went with steeda ultralites on my car, and hardly notice a difference from the steeda progressive springs that were on before... Other than no baby carriage and more road noise/feedback.
 

 
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