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Ford Performance Track Handling Suspension Package - Advice

Crowd Hunter

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I had this kit on my 2016 and loved the stance. It was absolutely perfect and rode better than the stock PP suspension. I put some Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates on mine to get the alignment just right.
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Type550

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Just got the car back from the workshop where I had the FP FR3 Track Handling kit installed.

Initial impressions, still very comfortable on the street. A little firmer than OEM, but quite comfortable still.

Pushing the car around the local back streets and a few round-abouts, definitely much tighter handling and significantly less body roll and front-end sway. Much more confidence inspiring, and I can point the car where I want it to go and it does it more accurately. Really impressed with the driving dynamics and quality of this kit from Ford Performance.

Still looking to fit strut tower brace and subframe front/rear braces to further improve rigidity and handling.

Looking forward to taking it around some real twisties along the coastline to test it out more thoroughly :like:
 

Dave2013M3

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I have the full kit as well, had it on the car since the car was 2 weeks old. Love it...to be honest this is the way the car should have came from the factory. The cars rear shocks on the OEM PP1 cars was way to under damped.

12-5a.jpg
 

Type550

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I have the full kit as well, had it on the car since the car was 2 weeks old. Love it...to be honest this is the way the car should have came from the factory. The cars rear shocks on the OEM PP1 cars was way to under damped.

12-5a.jpg
Couldn't agree more. The OEM suspension setup is way too soft!

The FP FR3 kit makes the car feel like it's on rails whilst still maintaining comfort when cruising. Still perfectly tractable as a daily driver.

I can't wait to fit the front and rear subframe braces, then I'll go on a weight loss journey to further lighten the car! 😎👍🏼
 

Seanuf99

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2021 base 300a. I had mine installed and picked it up last night. 60 mile drive home on interstate, and then drove out of my way to hit crap roads and a couple of railroad crossings. The only time I felt any difference in the ride from stock was hitting the worst of the railroad tracks, which I hit a little faster than I normally would. It was bit rougher.

I do have a question, and you will have to forgive me for making a rookie mistake and doing too much at once... but basically, i feel like steering return is now not good at all.

Modifcations the shop did this week from OE base equipment/specs:
Installed my 18x10 Apex wheels with the 275/40 Continental Extreme Contact sports on all corners.
Ford Peformance Control arms
FP track handling pack
Steeda subframe alignment inserts
FP alignment specs
Dealer alignment printout shows:
Front before: Front after
L -2.0/7.0/-0.01 -1.5/7.2/0.0
R -2.1/7.0/-.07 -1.5/7.2/0.0

I am going to try to take it for a drive tonight and get a better feel for the steering return to see if I can quantify it or at least give a better explanation of the diminished return feeling.

Wondering if it was the combination of the FP lowering springs and the extra 1/4 inch drop (unintended, but that was my mistake for not fully thinking through a last minute decision) from the smaller diameter tires, the new alignment spec, or wider tires (I am not experienced with tires this wide on a car). Maybe it is possible they overtorqued something (maybe control arms).

Thanks,

20220405_172019.jpg
 

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DrZed

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I recently installed this kit as well, and did everything in my garage on jackstands EXCEPT the toe link bushings. I tried with a tool and just couldn't get it, so I went to a shop for an alignment and they pressed them out for me.

I absolutely love the kit. Yes a bit stiffer on the street, but it is so marginal compared to my PP1 suspension, I hardly notice it. Nothing bone jarring or uncomfortable, and no increased NVH. I have the front sway stiffest (hole farthest away from the bar end) and the rear sway bar softest (hole closest to end of bar).

The kit came with all the necessary new lock nuts, and I used blue locktite on the bolts I reused (shock bolts etc...). The kit was easy to install, and the rear subframe drop (one side at a time) made for the rear spring to come out very easily. I was also surprised at how easily the front sway bar came out, and the new one went in. CJPony and AM both have great videos on how to do this job.

Advice: if you do this yourself get an 18mm ratcheting wrench for one of the driver's sway bar bolts accessed from the wheel well. Will make life a lot easier! I also rented a super-powerful battery operated DeWalt impact driver. Incredible how much less energy and more confident you can be doing jobs like this when the power tool breaks bolts loose so easily. Use a sharpy to mark each bolt you tighten and torque down... makes it very easy when you do a final once over.

You will not regret getting this kit, and priced well, and factory engineered parts!

Also, if you are not a PP1 car the toe link assembly is different than the standard GT.

My car dropped only about 3/4" not the 1" they advertise, but honestly it is perfect for me. The rear springs did not seem to "settle" over time. Car tracks as straight as before. Amazing, like a no compromise massive upgrade.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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1649268869917.jpeg
 
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NeverSatisfied

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Before you pull the trigger on this kit, consider the bilsteins, a linear spring rate, and some whiteline sway bars.

you’re getting mono tube shock performance for a similar price point.

I went with BMR handling springs and despite the high spring rate I would say the high speed damping rates deliver an improved daily ride in addition to the handling benefits over the base suspension.

I gave up on trying to do the toe link bushing swap on the car with a ball joint tool. I removed the knuckle and did it on my HF 20ton. It’s a piece of cake that way. You should be breaking most the suspension bolts loose anyway for torquing at the new ride height—you’re very close to knuckle removal.

Ford must be using the PP1 toe control arms across the board now as my ‘21 Gt had the correct arm.
 

Dave2013M3

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Before you pull the trigger on this kit, consider the bilsteins, a linear spring rate, and some whiteline sway bars.

you’re getting mono tube shock performance for a similar price point.

I went with BMR handling springs and despite the high spring rate I would say the high speed damping rates deliver an improved daily ride in addition to the handling benefits over the base suspension.

I gave up on trying to do the toe link bushing swap on the car with a ball joint tool. I removed the knuckle and did it on my HF 20ton. It’s a piece of cake that way. You should be breaking most the suspension bolts loose anyway for torquing at the new ride height—you’re very close to knuckle removal.

Ford must be using the PP1 toe control arms across the board now as my ‘21 Gt had the correct arm.

The Ford Performance shocks are awesome and the y springs are linear. Not to mention this kit is designed to work together instead of a mish mash of different manufacturers
 

NeverSatisfied

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The Ford Performance shocks are awesome and the y springs are linear. Not to mention this kit is designed to work together instead of a mish mash of different manufacturers
A mish mash of higher performing parts... open up a set of bilstein monotubes and compare them to the rebadged tokico's or whoever is making the FP twin tubes with meh damping curves.

Edit: and I'm not saying the FP kit is bad, All these setups are "budget" setups for the most part. I just believe you can do better for the same or slightly less money.
 
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Dave2013M3

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They're not Tokico's don't know where you got that from. They are based on the same technology for the Multimatic teams. You also thought the Ford Racing springs were progressive, they're not they are linear. You are commenting on something you didn't even know about.
The Ford Racing Track kit is basically a GT350 non R kit without the Magnaride. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just clarifying what you wrote. The Ford Racing Track kit is a great kit for the money and has a very OEM feel to it. Once again I feel this is the way the car should have come.
 

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Doug T

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When I installed mine I found the rear to be a little harsh for my taste. I put the stock rear sway in and it's perfect. I have a 2020 PP1. Hope this helps.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I hope you’re getting a kick back from FP!

Not sure where I said FP springs weren’t linear? I’m pretty sure I suggested looking at alternative linear springs.

Enlighten me on who’s making the mediocre FP twin tubes?
 

shogun32

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They are based on the same technology for the Multimatic teams
sorry man but you're WAY off. Multimatic damper are real dampers with a completely different valving setup from passive dampers the world over. The FP ones are bargain basement tech. I'm sure I could valve them better just looking at the factory shim stack without even modeling the piston.
Once again I feel this is the way the car should have come.
no argument there. The 'street' kit nee PP1 is a sick joke.
 

NeverSatisfied

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do you have the spring-rate equivalent measurements for those? I have a gap in my all-bars spreadsheet.
I've never seen wall thickness to approximate unfortunately.
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