Good thing to post but unfortunately the 'Green' specifications allow for way too much variation on this car. It's pretty easy to have a F'd up handling car and still be within these specs.For those needing factory alignment reference points:
Yeah. I make sure the tech will align to my specs or I'm taking my car elsewhere. Green ain't good enough, especially for a car with firm, modified suspension with very little rubber left in it.Youâre absolutely 100% correct.
The problem is - the techs at Ford OR any âtire shopâ that only rely on seeing GREEN - and truly donât know anything about actual specs or how to align a car at all. Itâs a shame.... and the general population wouldnât or doesnât know a bad alignment from a good one - as long as their steering wheel is straight, they pay and go in their way.
Exactly. Thank you. I haven't seen a review like this before or I would have done the alignment dowels sooner. I experienced the same thing.Because of those gaping holes in the rear subframe, thereâs so much tolerance as far as subframe alignment goes from factory, itâs crazy. Anytime the rear subframe is moved, or even loosened, an alignment should be done as the rear alignment affects the front. I just did an alignement on my car the other day and itâs much better. Now instead of fighting a pull to the left, I just have to fight the tramlining from those 295âs
What alignment specs are you using? I have FRPP shocks/dampers and SP083's waiting to go on the car. I plan on changing them out this weekend. The only difference I see between my suspension set up and yours is I don't have the LCA bearings.Yeah. I make sure the tech will align to my specs or I'm taking my car elsewhere. Green ain't good enough, especially for a car with firm, modified suspension with very little rubber left in it.
Do you have camber plates?What alignment specs are you using? I have FRPP shocks/dampers and SP083's waiting to go on the car. I plan on changing them out this weekend. The only difference I see between my suspension set up and yours is I don't have the LCA bearings.
No I do not. I am going to assume I will need them, lol.Do you have camber plates?
Yup, camber plates ordered a few hours ago.Front camber is adjustable: the service bolts are smaller and not splined, allowing some adjustment. If more adjustment is required the manual shows opening up the upper strut holes 1 mm in either direction for this. Buying camber plates may be easier.
Btw, new bolts/nuts are specified and they are torqued to 184 lb*ft!!!
Btww, this got me interested so I checked my '19 GT: -0.6 RF and RR, -0.4 LF and LR. I will probably change it when the weather gets cooler.
Are front camber and caster differences pretty normal then for stock suspension from factory?^Agreed. Furthermore, I even noticed a difference after I did the Steeda alignment dowels. The rear subframe being off a little affected things.
Small toe changes I've also noticed minor differences. So as they said once you firm up the suspension and replace bushings with bearings, etc., the tolerance for alignment settings gets smaller and becomes more noticeable.
Also, I'd say most of those published specs aren't really ideal for the "spirited" driver let alone track specs.
Yes that's pretty normal.Are front camber and caster differences pretty normal then for stock suspension from factory?
My front cambers have always been 0.2 to 0.3 apart from each other even after proper alignments, obviously would be better if they mirrored each other more at like -1.3
My LF caster right now is at 7.0 and RF caster is 6.8, hoping that difference is fine too?