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Factory alignment specs within

Cobra Jet

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For those needing factory alignment reference points:
98CC8B02-57F7-407C-B02C-005D9F6F44E3.jpeg
B3E32458-23DC-4E47-9266-B2B7590AB750.jpeg
ED043F5F-699D-4D85-8CB1-1E2DD7158DC2.jpeg
C8803C38-E4A5-4CC8-BD3D-8928ECDBA8D2.jpeg
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BmacIL

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For those needing factory alignment reference points:
98CC8B02-57F7-407C-B02C-005D9F6F44E3.jpeg
B3E32458-23DC-4E47-9266-B2B7590AB750.jpeg
ED043F5F-699D-4D85-8CB1-1E2DD7158DC2.jpeg
C8803C38-E4A5-4CC8-BD3D-8928ECDBA8D2.jpeg
Good thing to post but unfortunately the 'Green' specifications allow for way too much variation on this car. It's pretty easy to have a F'd up handling car and still be within these specs.
 
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Cobra Jet

Cobra Jet

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You’re absolutely 100% correct.

The problem is - the techs at Ford OR any “tire shop” that only rely on seeing GREEN - truly don’t know anything about actual specs or how to align a car at all. It’s a shame.... and the general population wouldn’t or doesn’t know a bad alignment from a good one - as long as their steering wheel is straight, they pay and go in their way.
 
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BmacIL

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You’re absolutely 100% correct.

The problem is - the techs at Ford OR any “tire shop” that only rely on seeing GREEN - and truly don’t know anything about actual specs or how to align a car at all. It’s a shame.... and the general population wouldn’t or doesn’t know a bad alignment from a good one - as long as their steering wheel is straight, they pay and go in their way.
Yeah. I make sure the tech will align to my specs or I'm taking my car elsewhere. Green ain't good enough, especially for a car with firm, modified suspension with very little rubber left in it.
 

Bluemustang

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^Agreed. Furthermore, I even noticed a difference after I did the Steeda alignment dowels. The rear subframe being off a little affected things.

Small toe changes I've also noticed minor differences. So as they said once you firm up the suspension and replace bushings with bearings, etc., the tolerance for alignment settings gets smaller and becomes more noticeable.

Also, I'd say most of those published specs aren't really ideal for the "spirited" driver let alone track specs.
 

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ModularKid21

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Because of those gaping holes in the rear subframe, there’s so much tolerance as far as subframe alignment goes from factory, it’s crazy. Anytime the rear subframe is moved, or even loosened, an alignment should be done as the rear alignment affects the front. I just did an alignement on my car the other day and it’s much better. Now instead of fighting a pull to the left, I just have to fight the tramlining from those 295’s
 

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Because of those gaping holes in the rear subframe, there’s so much tolerance as far as subframe alignment goes from factory, it’s crazy. Anytime the rear subframe is moved, or even loosened, an alignment should be done as the rear alignment affects the front. I just did an alignement on my car the other day and it’s much better. Now instead of fighting a pull to the left, I just have to fight the tramlining from those 295’s
Exactly. Thank you. I haven't seen a review like this before or I would have done the alignment dowels sooner. I experienced the same thing.
 

NightmareMoon

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Unless you’ve done something to allow for front camber adjustment, front camber is fixed, and thats the only difference between the PP and Non-PP specs.

MP4S do seem to wear out on the insides on a lot of cars. Make sure your toe is correct, that can accelerate wear.

I found out two days ago that one reason my tires corded quite so soon on the inside edge was the same reason my car was pulling left a little after.a precision alignment... one front control bearing was failed and allowing a little movement and toeing out when in motion.
 

repins1911

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Yeah. I make sure the tech will align to my specs or I'm taking my car elsewhere. Green ain't good enough, especially for a car with firm, modified suspension with very little rubber left in it.
What alignment specs are you using? I have FRPP shocks/dampers and SP083's waiting to go on the car. I plan on changing them out this weekend. The only difference I see between my suspension set up and yours is I don't have the LCA bearings.
 

BmacIL

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What alignment specs are you using? I have FRPP shocks/dampers and SP083's waiting to go on the car. I plan on changing them out this weekend. The only difference I see between my suspension set up and yours is I don't have the LCA bearings.
Do you have camber plates?
 

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boB

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Front camber is adjustable: the service bolts are smaller and not splined, allowing some adjustment. If more adjustment is required the manual shows opening up the upper strut holes 1 mm in either direction for this. Buying camber plates may be easier.
Btw, new bolts/nuts are specified and they are torqued to 184 lb*ft!!!

Btww, this got me interested so I checked my '19 GT: -0.6 RF and RR, -0.4 LF and LR. I will probably change it when the weather gets cooler.
 
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repins1911

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Front camber is adjustable: the service bolts are smaller and not splined, allowing some adjustment. If more adjustment is required the manual shows opening up the upper strut holes 1 mm in either direction for this. Buying camber plates may be easier.
Btw, new bolts/nuts are specified and they are torqued to 184 lb*ft!!!

Btww, this got me interested so I checked my '19 GT: -0.6 RF and RR, -0.4 LF and LR. I will probably change it when the weather gets cooler.
Yup, camber plates ordered a few hours ago.
 

Albertcado

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^Agreed. Furthermore, I even noticed a difference after I did the Steeda alignment dowels. The rear subframe being off a little affected things.

Small toe changes I've also noticed minor differences. So as they said once you firm up the suspension and replace bushings with bearings, etc., the tolerance for alignment settings gets smaller and becomes more noticeable.

Also, I'd say most of those published specs aren't really ideal for the "spirited" driver let alone track specs.
Are front camber and caster differences pretty normal then for stock suspension from factory?
My front cambers have always been 0.2 to 0.3 apart from each other even after proper alignments, obviously would be better if they mirrored each other more at like -1.3

My LF caster right now is at 7.0 and RF caster is 6.8, hoping that difference is fine too?

1644874218094.jpeg
 

Bluemustang

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Are front camber and caster differences pretty normal then for stock suspension from factory?
My front cambers have always been 0.2 to 0.3 apart from each other even after proper alignments, obviously would be better if they mirrored each other more at like -1.3

My LF caster right now is at 7.0 and RF caster is 6.8, hoping that difference is fine too?

1644874218094.jpeg
Yes that's pretty normal.
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