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Ewheels

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TT, TT3 any TT, TA used to be T*ts and A** guess not here, LOL. 3R's, leading grids for TT's? Spec E... or A7's and so on. Likely it's one of these "well once you start tracking you'll learn.." things?

presently I'm Novice 1st Class.
@shogun32 nailed it but I'll go a bit more detail

TT is time trial, TA is time attack = both the same thing. Time attack is suede racing or qualifying. You race to see who sets the fastest lap time rather than who crosses the finish line first. It's generally safer as each driver isn't banging into each other for position. The safety requirements are identical as regular ol' HPDE's (High Performance Driving Event).
TT3 or TT# is just the classing designation. NASA (National Auto Sport Association) classes cars based on their power to weight ratio to keep things even and competitive. TT3 is limited to 10:1 or 10 lbs per every wheel horsepower.

3R: Goodyear tire as @shogun32 explained (fastest street tire currently available)

A7: Hoosier A7, fastest tire period. Crazy fast lap times, crazy expensive tire, lasts one weekend

Spec E: not sure on this one. There's Spec E30 or Spec E36, same as Spec Miata. These are just racing classes


Hope this helps!
 

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Was bored last night so I started day dreaming of competing in TT3. Started doing the calculator and got confused lol.
But hopefully I’ll be there next year
 

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Back at Auto Club Speedway for what might be one of the last times. They have already started tearing the grand stands down. This hasn't been my favorite track but I've grown to appreciate it so it will be sad to see it go.

This was my first time with Speed Ventures and I can say it was quite enjoyable. Not nearly as crowded as NASA events and still well organized. This was their first ever Mustang Driver's Club timed competition; no specific reason why but I was sort of expecting a bunch of car-show Mustang types to show up (the type who care more about their cars being clean than going fast.) I could not have been more wrong - my car was probably the most stock one there. Some seriously fast Mustangs showed up.

I wasn't necessarily expecting to be on podium as the handicap/point system was going through some growing pains and I'm definitely not the fastest driver out there so I was racing myself that day. My previous best time there was a 1:55, then another 1:55 with a passenger, so with my new seat and the lack of a passenger seat (roughly 75 lbs lost) I was aiming for a 1:53 but could only muster up a 1:54. Still beat my record but not quite what I wanted; I'll take it though. Watching the lap video, I found a couple spots I could have done better so I think a 1:53 is possible with my current setup.

Speaking of current setup....I know I praise the Toyo RR tires but I already want to get rid of these. I love them that they are so freaking cheap but man, they really are lacking in pace...or I'm over-driving them. I did notice the only spots I would have trouble with grip was low speed corner exits which could have been for a number of reasons.
1. I'm over-driving the car
2. The larger 350R rear sway bar is making the rear come loose too soon.
3. The Toyo RR's just suck
During the second session of the day, I was kicking the back end out almost every corner-exit trying to push for that 1:53 but noticed it was hurting my times more than anything. I dialed myself back and wham...instantly better and smoother corners. I'll have to watch my lap videos and compare times pre and post calming myself down.

As for my sworn enemy, I think I sort of got heel-toe downshifts down. The new seat position helped but I told myself this was going to be my deciding track day. I was still messing it up first session but after I knocked the cob webs off, I was getting decent downshifts by session two. Still not the most consistent but much better. My conclusion: buy the Xineering. I'm no pro driver and this will give me one less thing to think about. Just plant my foot on the brake pedal and let the electronics do the blip for me.

Last point: I was above 230° CHT and right around the yellow zone for oil temp pretty much all day. The last session of the day, I hit 237° CHT so I let off the gas. The discouraging part was this was a relatively cool day; 82° ambient at the hottest. I know I've needed to address cooling for awhile now but the equipment is expensive and puts a lot of weight right on the nose of the car. I've thought about E85 before but I've been against any sort of engine mod purely for reliability purposes. Well after talking with some folks, I might pull the trigger on E85. I would be doing it purely for the cooling aspect; the added power will be a bonus. If a simple tune and some different fuel get my temps to an acceptable level, that would be amazing! I know Patrick runs E85 and has no oil cooler and his car managed just fine so I have hope. I will likely add an oil cooler down the road for added insurance but this will buy me time.

As for the added power: I might have to rethink my TT3 build. I have two options:
1. 91 octane tune, passenger seat installed, Goodyear 3R tire, potential cooling issues.
2. E85 tune, no passenger seat, +1.0 tire (maybe A052's or Rival S 1.5), potentially NO cooling issues. I like this plan better

ACS - 10.1.22 - MDC.jpg
 
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Great update Eric congrats on the new PB.

I did 350r bars on my car a while back and it was way too much rear bar, I’d drop back to stock rear and see how it is.
 

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Great update Eric congrats on the new PB.

I did 350r bars on my car a while back and it was way too much rear bar, I’d drop back to stock rear and see how it is.
and the only thing weaker that is a convertible bar, or not even run it at all.
 

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and the only thing weaker that is a convertible bar, or not even run it at all.
Really? What size is the 350R RARB? I run a 20mm rear bar off an older V6 car and I've got the 24mm one it came with. I've also run with it disconnected, which has some real positives on a low grip surface. Mostly though, that 20mm option is my go to.
 
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Great update Eric congrats on the new PB.

I did 350r bars on my car a while back and it was way too much rear bar, I’d drop back to stock rear and see how it is.
I sold my oem PP bar 😭

@Biggsy I bought the Xineering this morning! Said 14 days to build so it might just barely come in time for my next event.
 

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@Biggsy I bought the Xineering this morning! Said 14 days to build so it might just barely come in time for my next event.
don't begrudge you the auto-blipper, but if you're just slow and patient on the clutch you can drag the motor up to speed without messing up chassis balance or breaking traction.
 

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@Biggsy I bought the Xineering this morning! Said 14 days to build so it might just barely come in time for my next event.
lol so you gave in as well huh.

It wasn't a bad install especially for my first time doing anything electrical on the car. Just make sure you get extra posi taps (trust me on this) and a switch you like. I went with a toggle switch (DPST from Home Depot) and a separate LED light (Amazon). The clutch switch wasn't bad as people made it out to be, but after watching videos and the other threads, I knew what I was looking for. I didn't want to bring my laptop to the track and I have an iPhone so when I went to the track I couldn't adjust so I was forced to heel toe. I think I have it where I want it now (80% blip and 200ms duration). Everything is in the glove box. Can't wait to try it out again.

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don't begrudge you the auto-blipper, but if you're just slow and patient on the clutch you can drag the motor up to speed without messing up chassis balance or breaking traction.
I'm sure you're right, but I just don't care anymore. I'm so over having messy downshifts. Let the computer do it for me so I can focus on other aspects on the track.

@Biggsy, the switch and light is just for turning the device on and off?
 

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@Biggsy, the switch and light is just for turning the device on and off?
Yup. The downside of the Xineering compared to the Auto Blip is that you have to wire in your own switch or it will stay on. I could've done without the light but I wanted a quick indicator that the module was on. It looks too bright because I park in an underground garage but its off most of the time and during a sunny track day, it is bright enough. You can get a simple switch with a built in LED though. Also you can think about the easiest location for you to reach it when strapped in. I read that the center console is not the best place because after being strapped in, it is too difficult to get to.

At least while its being built you can shop for good pair of wire strippers (if you dont have already), switch, extra 20-24AWG wire, and posi taps
 
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Yup. The downside of the Xineering compared to the Auto Blip is that you have to wire in your own switch or it will stay on. I could've done without the light but I wanted a quick indicator that the module was on. It looks too bright because I park in an underground garage but its off most of the time and during a sunny track day, it is bright enough. You can get a simple switch with a built in LED though. Also you can think about the easiest location for you to reach it when strapped in. I read that the center console is not the best place because after being strapped in, it is too difficult to get to.

At least while its being built you can shop for good pair of wire strippers (if you dont have already), switch, extra 20-24AWG wire, and posi taps
Thanks for the tips!
I know I have plenty of wire taps from the trailer wiring so should be good there. I'll look for a nice switch online.

Does it drain the battery at all if left on all the time?
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