Bluemustang’s GT Road Car Build

[Bluemustang]

Well yesterday was fun (and interesting day). Was at Dominion Raceway trackcross with @Biggsy. Second time running this course so I was more familiar with it so that made a difference. The RE71Rs are a tremendous difference. I've gained more time from it than I expected. They're so much happier at the limit and promoting a controlled rotation. If they go over the line they come back so much more easily. Morning runs someone spilled fluids all over the track so we all lost a run and then run 3 they messed up the times for me and the 4 other drivers who were last like me. This seems to be a pattern with this organization - unable to consistently and accurate record times for folks. So I only got 2 official morning laps.

Get ready for the afternoon session - we do our touring lap, go back into the grid and prepare for our first "test" run. The first actual run never counts. But I decided to ramp it up from the start so I could get closer to what 9/10 or 10/10 would be, cuz you never know how many laps you get or when they'll screw up your time when you had a great lap. The lap was feeling really good, my best of the day. Come to straightaway and I'm in 4th the whole time, so I'm going at least 130 - I start the braking zone and then that's when the splitter broke. I don't know exactly what caused it but seeing as it only happened after I started braking, I think the brake dive changed the splitter angle of attack. It was actually the mounting for the PP splitter to the bumper that failed. The ZL1 splitter bolts are still intact.

So that incident ended my day before I could get any afternoon runs in. I was thinking I had a fast lap in me. On that particular section of the course my improvement was evident because my last time here on my best run I was only able to hit 4th gear on the very end of the straight, but this time I was in 4th gear entering the straight and full throttle all the way down.

All in all it was an up and down day, but mostly up. I had a blast and could see the improvement in me and the car. So even though I broke something, I broke it doing something I love. Lol

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[shogun32]

It was actually the mounting for the PP splitter to the bumper that failed.

you have support arms on the ZL1 extension?

 

[Bluemustang]

you have support arms on the ZL1 extension?

Negatory. That probably would have avoided an issue.

 

[Biggsy]

I want to see the tabs that mount the front lip to the bumper. That will tell what happened.

I second this because if the splitter came off with the PP lip then I dont see how rods would've kept the PP lip to the bumper. It might've prevented it from dragging but the back side of it would came off.

 

[Bluemustang]

Well, just thought I would update this. The failure of the splitter configuration was due to factory hardware that needed to be there to reinforce the PP splitter. This was an oversight by me. So feeling a bit stupid about now but I think have fixed using machine bolts, double sided washers and a nut.

The bumper is pretty weak although adequate for the car as manufactured by Ford. The only thing really holding the factory bumper on is several small 7mm and 8mm screws and those plastic tabs on the fender that everybody seems to break when removing their bumpers. I guess I feel a little more comfortable having the quik latches and bolts as they should hold much better than plastic tabs. Tbh though with enough downforce and not chassis mounting the splitter, the bumper plastic deforming seems like a much more likely scenario than the bumper mounts failing. Adding rods down the road will be a consideration.

Well, now I can drive the car and do my vacation and participate in the next trackcross event. So I'm happy. I also plan to swap to GLOC pads and replace my front rotors before the 26th.

I feel like I improved a little recently but still leaving a ton of time out there. It's really a blast driving this car, especially with everything coming together, particularly the RE71Rs. The tires change the way you drive it. I learned to push the car a little bit harder this past weekend, but there's still more in it.

These events are just really fun times and can't wait to get out there with the guys again! Thank you shout to Tim and Brian for all the help you've given me and to Warren for saving my ass on I-95 haha.

 

[Bluemustang]

Just got the GLOC R10 pads in for the front, along with new Raybestos rotors. Already has GLOC R8 for the rear that I picked up new for half price. Just got the magnetic autocross numbers in too, so no more green painters tape lol.

 

[Bluemustang]

Just got the GLOC R10s and R8s on in time for the event tomorrow. Also replaced front rotors with Raybestos (from RockAuto about $50/pc). Never changed pads on the 6 piston calipers before so ill be better at it next time.

Pedal became a little squishy and had longer travel after last event. Turned out it was the pads and rotors. Now with GLOC pads the brakes feel excellent.

 

[SlowStangGT]

Hey Bluemustang!

Hope your car is bringing you smiles throughout 2021

Quick question: How much clearance do you have between the strut bolt and the strut opening?
I ask this because I have pretty much the same as your setup, and want to do 2.0 degree or more camber in the front. I'm a little worried about the Steeda lateral link with extended ball joint pulling in the track and reducing the max camber. I was curious if you had to cut open your strut opening to get to the 2.2 degrees in your current setup.

I'm installing my parts now, but I want to make sure that I won't regret choosing the MM Caster/Camber plate over Vorshlag/Steeda/BMR/etc

I got the FRPP Track Shock/Struts + BMR SP083


Also another question: What made you decide to run 6.9 degrees of caster vs BMR's recommendation of 7.21? I see 6.9 is the same as the GT350R and PP stock caster

Thanks in advance

 

[Biggsy]

Hey Bluemustang!

Hope your car is bringing you smiles throughout 2021

Quick question: How much clearance do you have between the strut bolt and the strut opening?
I ask this because I have pretty much the same as your setup, and want to do 2.0 degree or more camber in the front. I'm a little worried about the Steeda lateral link with extended ball joint pulling in the track and reducing the max camber. I was curious if you had to cut open your strut opening to get to the 2.2 degrees in your current setup.

I'm installing my parts now, but I want to make sure that I won't regret choosing the MM Caster/Camber plate over Vorshlag/Steeda/BMR/etc

I got the FRPP Track Shock/Struts + BMR SP083


Also another question: What made you decide to run 6.9 degrees of caster vs BMR's recommendation of 7.21? I see 6.9 is the same as the GT350R and PP stock caster

Thanks in advance

I run a similar set up to him minus the camber bolts. With the steeda lateral arms I max out at -2.3 or -2.5. I am not where close to hitting the strut hole. I believe the way to get more with those arms is to run a bigger spacer (if applicable) otherwise just have to take off the arms.

 

[SlowStangGT]

I run a similar set up to him minus the camber bolts. With the steeda lateral arms I max out at -2.3 or -2.5. I am not where close to hitting the strut hole. I believe the way to get more with those arms is to run a bigger spacer (if applicable) otherwise just have to take off the arms.

Awesome, thanks! That's reassuring I will definitely take a look at your build thread!

Seems like the specs you, bluemustang, bmac, and others run are the best way to go for a non-coilover handling setup

 

[Bluemustang]

Well guys, I've been out of the game for awhile, as it's been a crazy few years. Life intervened. Covid hit, then I lost my job... Got a new job, and then my mom got sick shortly after and she passed away last year. So I haven't spent much time working on the car and haven't been to the track in a while.

But now I am getting back into the game. I am going to The Tail of the Dragon in NC next month and plan to do some HPDE events this year or next year, after I do a few mods to the car. I need to upgrade the cooling in the car and will be doing a few other things to get it ready for longer sessions I'll see in HPDE. At 76K miles, the engine still feels as strong as ever!

I just got back from a trip to Yellowstone! I drove all the way from Maryland. I hit Mt. Rushmore and The Badlands on the way and I drove through Yellowstone Park on the way in. WOW. These roads and scenery are unreal. If you've never been out there, you got to. Driving in the Mustang was 100% worth it. I also hit the Grand Tetons which was also awesome.

I figured since I'm going to carve those curvy roads in NC next month, I thought this would be a great opportunity to do what I've been planning for almost 3 years. Coilovers. I was going to wait until next year to do it, but life is now. Why wait? Good chance to test them out.

I went with the Ohlins R&T kit from hotpart. Installing them on Tuesday. I considered a custom Ohlins kit from J&M, but after some conversations with Vorshlag on how I plan to use the car, they strongly suggested I use Ohlins' stock rates (515F/800R). It is my daily driver after all and I don't intend it to be racecar. I'm excited to see what having some real good dampers can do, as well as the stiffer front springs.

I will report back on my thoughts once I have them installed.

Future mods planned:

-Mishimoto radiator
-MFR splitter (so I can chassis mount)
-Racing seats, roll bar, harness

 

[SlowStangGT]

Congrats on the Ohlins! I'm looking to buy the same set too

I'm curious to see how much camber you end up with, as the slotted top strut-to-spindle connection should allow you to bring the top of the wheel closer. Curious if you can make full advantage of it without the tire rubbing the strut

I also plan on keeping my rear BMR 980 lb/in spring instead of using the 800 lb/in one, as I plan on adding some aero later on

 

[Bluemustang]

Just picked the car up today with the Ohlins coilovers installed, J&M plates, and J&M bumpsteer kit. Just in a short drive, I can tell you it rides amazingly.

I can't even tell that my spring rate in the front went from 250lbs./in. to 514. It actually feels smoother. The ride feels completely different. The biggest difference I notice is over sharp bumps the damper reacts immediately and with much less drama. That is the DFV working. Much less drama overall, in fact. Flat, smooth and drama free. I have yet to really test it out on backroads or anything so I look forward to that and playing with the damper settings.

I had shop set the coilovers to stock preload which equates to ~25mm lower than stock car. I figure I can adjust later after everything settles and I get a chance to get comfortable with the setup. It appears slightly lower than the BMR SP083 did. Probably similar to the FRPP track kit. My 275/40R19 Michelins tuck ever so slightly in the wheel well. And there is a slight rake to the stance. Also . If I do anything later I might raise the ride height a few mm, but we'll see.

I was able to eek out a little more camber and tech said he thinks I could go further. But for a street car I think this is pretty good.

*** An extra note: the Steeda rear shock mounts - yeah, they don't fit. I had to go back to the OEM shock mounts for now. I thought they would fit considering the FP dampers fit both the OEM mount and the Steeda and the Ohlins were made to fit the OEM shock mounts. Well, I thought wrong. I think J&M has a solution that I now realize is made specifically for the Ohlins.

 

[Biggsy]

*** An extra note: the Steeda rear shock mounts - yeah, they don't fit. I had to go back to the OEM shock mounts for now. I thought they would fit considering the FP dampers fit both the OEM mount and the Steeda and the Ohlins were made to fit the OEM shock mounts. Well, I thought wrong. I think J&M has a solution that I now realize is made specifically for the Ohlins.

I know it cost more but I would consider Vorshlag mounts as it give you some shock travel back.

 

[SlowStangGT]

Glad you had a great first impression!!! I'm looking forwarded to getting mine

BTW, do you know how the shop did the camber? (maxed in the plate & adjusted at the spindle, or vice versa). And did they say anything about the wheel-to-strut clearance?

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