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So the roll bar install is very straightforward until you have to line up the trunk legs. I reached out for help to the community and it seems everyone had the same problem. One leg is up off the floor about a quarter inch or so and the other leg is too far forward. Oh and the main hoop sits too high as it doesn't quite fit over the B-pillar brace.

1632753286689.png


@Scootsmcgreggor any further tips? As far as drilling, is it only the brake line that needs to be out of the way? It's hard to see under there.

I'll hopefully wrap it up this coming weekend. I don't like leaving my car unfinished. I am however, really liking the gutted look/feel! I really don't want to put the interior back in. I may just leave it out and enter SGC as Mod class rather than Street.

1632753235950.png
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Mine is from CMS so the down-tubes land in a different place than the Watson. If you need to could you clearance the main hoop mounting holes so you can cant the hoop back a couple degrees?
 
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Yep, the main hoop was the issue. I took the bolts out of the main hoop and adjusted the placement of the whole thing and it sits much nicer now. All front bolts thread fine and the legs sit flush on the trunk floor. Can finally wrap this up now. Between work and potty training our new puppy, I don't get much time to spend on the car
 
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So my worst fear came true....while drilling one of the last holes for the roll bar, the bit grabbed and pulled my drill in and knicked a hard brake line.

1633097699684.png


Everyone tells me brake lines are an easy fix. After looking into this, replacing the actual line does look easy BUT actually reaching the line is the tedious part.

1633097768116.png


The purple arrow is pointing at the brake line. Looks like I'd have to take apart the entire rear end to get to the line. :facepalm:
I think I'll let the dealer guys handle this one. First time it'll be back at a dealer since I drove it home the first day
 
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So my worst fear came true....while drilling one of the last holes for the roll bar, the bit grabbed and pulled my drill in and knicked a hard brake line.

1633097699684.png


Everyone tells me brake lines are an easy fix. After looking into this, replacing the actual line does look easy BUT actually reaching the line is the tedious part.

1633097768116.png


The purple arrow is pointing at the brake line. Looks like I'd have to take apart the entire rear end to get to the line. :facepalm:
I think I'll let the dealer guys handle this one. First time it'll be back at a dealer since I drove it home the first day
Can't be any worse then dropping the subframe a bit to do a stop the hop kit or alignment bushings?
 

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Can't be any worse then dropping the subframe a bit to do a stop the hop kit or alignment bushings?
It's so hard to reach in there and I can't even see the whole thing. I'm imagining lots of disassembling in the process.
And my wife wants to be able to walk in the garage sooner than later 😆
 

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Ah that sucks dude! Sorry to hear. I was just looking at replacing an evap line that runs across the chassis in the same area and it requires dropping the whole subframe. Wouldn’t be surprised if this does too. It will prob be a good bit of labor from the dealer. But not difficult if you can get a friend or two over to help lower the subframe. Might save a good bit of money if you bite the bullet and do it yourself.
 
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Ah that sucks dude! Sorry to hear. I was just looking at replacing an evap line that runs across the chassis in the same area and it requires dropping the whole subframe. Wouldn’t be surprised if this does too. It will prob be a good bit of labor from the dealer. But not difficult if you can get a friend or two over to help lower the subframe. Might save a good bit of money if you bite the bullet and do it yourself.
Yeah I'm sure I could get it done with some friends but I only have two weekends left before my next event and already have family plans. Running short on time.
I met a Ford dealer owner at an event once and got his contact info. I called him last night and he said he'd get me a deal. I'm curious what the quote will be
 

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It's so hard to reach in there and I can't even see the whole thing. I'm imagining lots of disassembling in the process.
And my wife wants to be able to walk in the garage sooner than later 😆
For sure, there's always other priorities
 
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Alright, roll bar finally done and car all buttoned up.

1633462929556.png


After calling numerous dealers, I found out that factory brake lines are on national backorder, just like everything else. Only four dealers in the nation had one in stock and luckily a dealer in Arizona was able to ship me one. Should be here tomorrow.

I'm liking this gutted interior look and feel. Much easier to access everything without having to first remove paneling. I may just remove all the carpeting once a race seat, HANS, and harness is in the budget.
 

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Have you driven it yet? I'd be curious to know how much more noise comes into the cabin without the lining
 
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Have you driven it yet? I'd be curious to know how much more noise comes into the cabin without the lining
I have not as the brake line is still busted. Not taking that chance.
Noise doesn't bother me as this car is 99% track use
 
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Car is coming home today!
Very excited to drive it with the new roll bar and gutted interior for the first time.
Also had an alignment done. New specs:
1634737617850.png

I asked for -3.0 camber front but this is as far as it would allow. Looks like I'll be cutting the strut tower hole next time to get passed -3.0

Also, I noticed the alignment settings from last year had changed when they took the initial "before" settings
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I ignorantly assumed the alignment wouldn't change unless you hit something, don't tighten lug nuts, ect. Seems logical that beating the car on the track and running over kerbs would slowly alter the alignment. I'll be adding this to regular maintenance now

Not sure when my next track day will be as the wife and I are trying to pay off wedding debts while the 0% interest on the credit cards is still active. On a strict budget for the time being and I don't know if that will include track days.
 

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Seems logical that beating the car on the track and running over kerbs would slowly alter the alignment.
flange nuts with serrated underside might be called for here. A paint pen too may also show the assembly sliding over at the strut mount. I wonder if a puck of aluminum that fits inset with the hole and equipped with a set screw/bolt could be used to lock out lateral movement. Then again the sheetmetal is pretty damn thin. I wonder how much of the drift is deformation of the mounting surface?
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