Ewheels Road Course Build

[SlowStangGT]

@Ewheels, do you have the Steeda roll center correction kit installed? If not, it should counter your oversteer and help with camber gain and front wheel grip while allowing you in theory to run a softer front bar setting, though you may need to cut your strut holes to achieve the same amount of camber you have now, as it pulls the track width in. I have it installed, and I think my BMR SB044 is just a smidgeon too stiff on the middle setting with my stock PP rear sway bar

I'm running 1.9F and 1.4r right now, rears are totally fine while front outsides are definitely getting worn. Once I cut my strut holes, n|Next alignment I'm aiming for 2.7f, keeping 1.4r. Given that we have a pretty similar suspension setup, I can be the guinea pig and let you know how tire wear is with this and the Steeda RCC arms

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[Ewheels]

@Ewheels, do you have the Steeda roll center correction kit installed? If not, it should counter your oversteer and help with camber gain and front wheel grip while allowing you in theory to run a softer front bar setting, though you may need to cut your strut holes to achieve the same amount of camber you have now, as it pulls the track width in. I have it installed, and I think my BMR SB044 is just a smidgeon too stiff on the middle setting with my stock PP rear sway bar

I'm running 1.9F and 1.4r right now, rears are totally fine while front outsides are definitely getting worn. Once I cut my strut holes, n|Next alignment I'm aiming for 2.7f, keeping 1.4r. Given that we have a pretty similar suspension setup, I can be the guinea pig and let you know how tire wear is with this and the Steeda RCC arms

I do not have the kit. I heard some folks say you need it and some say you don't need it. I'm not sure I'm experienced enough to even tell what specific suspension component is doing what and which aspects need improvement.
The friend I bought my suspension off of was nearly 10 seconds a lap faster than I am at BW with the same exact setup I have now so I know I am the limiting factor at the moment. Once I know I'm at the limits of the car, I'll start modding suspension again. For now, it's improve safety and more seat time.

 

[Biggsy]

Hey man, have you tried the R16/R12 pads yet?

 

[Ewheels]

Minor update here before the much larger update to come in the next month or so.

Installed Curt hitch receiver
Removed rear seats and trunk carpets
Ordered Watson 4 pt roll bar
Ordered HANS ready helmet
Ordered sim wheel and pedals
Ordered DTC-60 pads front and rear.

Aiming to get the roll bar installed before my next event in October along with the new pads. Other than that, lots of sim practice to be had. I want sub 2:00 at Buttonwillow so so bad!

@Biggsy Decided against G-Loc R16/12 pads for a couple reasons. One, Hawks are cheaper. Two, with Nasa TT rewards, I can get a free set of Hawk pads every few events. Not expecting to be the next champion but if I can get consistent discounts on consumables and make this hobby cheaper, that'd be great.
I'll share pictures once the roll bar is in

 

[Biggsy]

Minor update here before the much larger update to come in the next month or so.

Installed Curt hitch receiver
Removed rear seats and trunk carpets
Ordered Watson 4 pt roll bar
Ordered HANS ready helmet
Ordered sim wheel and pedals
Ordered DTC-60 pads front and rear.

Aiming to get the roll bar installed before my next event in October along with the new pads. Other than that, lots of sim practice to be had. I want sub 2:00 at Buttonwillow so so bad!

@Biggsy Decided against G-Loc R16/12 pads for a couple reasons. One, Hawks are cheaper. Two, with Nasa TT rewards, I can get a free set of Hawk pads every few events. Not expecting to be the next champion but if I can get consistent discounts on consumables and make this hobby cheaper, that'd be great.
I'll share pictures once the roll bar is in

I’m right behind you with similar steps after I’m done this season.

I really wanted to try the Hawks especially because of the price when my 12/10 is finished but I’m turned off by the reputation of rotor wear. You get it free so doesn’t hurt to try.

 

[Ewheels]

I’m right behind you with similar steps after I’m done this season.

I really wanted to try the Hawks especially because of the price when my 12/10 is finished but I’m turned off by the reputation of rotor wear. You get it free so doesn’t hurt to try.

I've heard all the stories about Hawk and rotor wear as well. I think that's the case with any aggressive track pad though. They soften up when you get heat into them. When cold, they're just grinding away.

Fortunately, my mustang is no longer my daily. I just leave it in track trim year-round now.

 

[TeeLew]

I've heard all the stories about Hawk and rotor wear as well. I think that's the case with any aggressive track pad though. They soften up when you get heat into them. When cold, they're just grinding away.

There's a lot of truth to this. At operating temperature, wear will be similar to any other racing pad, but if you try to daily a racing pad, then it's just a long-term machining process on the disc.

What discs are you using? 1 or 2 piece? You'll probably find that front discs aren't really 'good' for more than a couple weekends.

 

[Ewheels]

There's a lot of truth to this. At operating temperature, wear will be similar to any other racing pad, but if you try to daily a racing pad, then it's just a long-term machining process on the disc.

What discs are you using? 1 or 2 piece? You'll probably find that front discs aren't really 'good' for more than a couple weekends.

I'm using DBA 1 pc rotors. Zero problems so far. I have 6 track days on them currently and seem to be holding up.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm using DBA 1 pc rotors. Zero problems so far. I have 6 track days on them currently and seem to be holding up.

You may find that as the discs get older, the initial bite & overall efficiency of the brakes seems to drop. When this happens, you need to put new ones on, even if they still look good. There's something that happens when you throw a bunch of brake energy into discs which seems to degrade performance over about 1000-1500 racing miles. I can't explain it in scientific terms, but if you ever come across strange braking issues, keep this in mind. You might just need new discs. Cars as heavy as ours give the brakes a hell of a workout.

 

[Ewheels]

You may find that as the discs get older, the initial bite & overall efficiency of the brakes seems to drop. When this happens, you need to put new ones on, even if they still look good. There's something that happens when you throw a bunch of brake energy into discs which seems to degrade performance over about 1000-1500 racing miles. I can't explain it in scientific terms, but if you ever come across strange braking issues, keep this in mind. You might just need new discs. Cars as heavy as ours give the brakes a hell of a workout.

Interesting....
I did notice at my last event at Buttonwillow, I'd hit the brakes hard going into sunrise, no issues, but then braking hard again entering cotton corners, it would almost feel like glazed pads. Hard pedal but no bite. This was consistent each session

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Interesting....
I did notice at my last event at Buttonwillow, I'd hit the brakes hard going into sunrise, no issues, but then braking hard again entering cotton corners, it would almost feel like glazed pads. Hard pedal but no bite. This was consistent each session

That could also be due to the particulars of the track. I’ve had the same in turn 10 at Laguna, no idea why but unpredictable pedal bite point there and rock solid everywhere else. Lap after lap. Odd isn’t it?

 

[Ewheels]

That could also be due to the particulars of the track. I’ve had the same in turn 10 at Laguna, no idea why but unpredictable pedal bite point there and rock solid everywhere else. Lap after lap. Odd isn’t it?

Super odd.
I thought my pads were getting low and potentially more susceptible to heat soak or something. It was also 95° outside.
I'm switching to Hawk DTC-60 pads so hopefully those will do me better than the R12s I had up front

 

[2morrow]

You may find that as the discs get older, the initial bite & overall efficiency of the brakes seems to drop. When this happens, you need to put new ones on, even if they still look good. There's something that happens when you throw a bunch of brake energy into discs which seems to degrade performance over about 1000-1500 racing miles. I can't explain it in scientific terms, but if you ever come across strange braking issues, keep this in mind. You might just need new discs. Cars as heavy as ours give the brakes a hell of a workout.

So true. I'm already looking at new front replacement discs for mine.

Interesting....
I did notice at my last event at Buttonwillow, I'd hit the brakes hard going into sunrise, no issues, but then braking hard again entering cotton corners, it would almost feel like glazed pads. Hard pedal but no bite. This was consistent each session

A very similar thing happened to me at BW.

 

[Ewheels]

A very similar thing happened to me at BW.

Maybe it's that there isn't enough time to cool down the brakes in between hard braking zones?

 

[2morrow]

Maybe it's that there isn't enough time to cool down the brakes in between hard braking zones?

I hadn't thought about it like that but your right. There were 2 areas that happened to me and it would always be after a lap where I was trying to get a good time in. Turn 2A to 2B was always compromised and I eventually found a way to work it out and 3 once in a while.

Keep in Mind that I only ran it once and it's not like I was "fast" on it. I think my best were back to back laps of 2.04:953 then a 2:04.954. I think my top speed was 120.

My first session I think I started with a 2:12.xx

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