Engine Tick Preventive Measures

[Elp_jc]

Ha ha. The 2K rattle is actually more annoying than the tick; at least the mild kind you cannot hear while driving. But for me, the ‘tick’ could be actual bearing issues, which would eventually kill the engine, and sounds more embarrassing too, so it detracts from enjoying the car fully, but it is what it is. In cases where it appears later on, it might mean wear. That’s also why I’m switching to 0W oil, so it starts lubricating the engine quicker when cold (even at 100F). No drawbacks, but it might not prevent the tick if it’s going to happen. Hope I got a Wednesday engine. Ha ha.

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[ice445]

Ha ha. The 2K rattle is actually more annoying than the tick; at least the mild kind you cannot hear while driving. But for me, the ‘tick’ could be actual bearing issues, which would eventually kill the engine, and sounds more embarrassing too, so it detracts from enjoying the car fully, but it is what it is. In cases where it appears later on, it might mean wear. That’s also why I’m switching to 0W oil, so it starts lubricating the engine quicker when cold (even at 100F). No drawbacks, but it might not prevent the tick if it’s going to happen. Hope I got a Wednesday engine. Ha ha.

I did my first oil change at 2,850 with Pennzoil Platinum 5W20 and...still no tick, lol. So maybe I got lucky? One thing I did do that most people don't anymore is fill the oil filter before installing it. Considering it's part of the oil cooler which is on the return side of the block it shouldn't matter anyway, but It made me feel good inside.

 

[Spinr33]

Everyone is saying the ticking sound and it goes away with ceratec, sounds like litter tick / piston slap like in the LS motors ?
It would make more sense if it was lifted tick that’s why the ceratec would quieten it down, normally the thinner the oil the worse it is as the thicker oil dampens the sound.

 

[Rapid Red]

I did my first oil change at 2,850 with Pennzoil Platinum 5W20 and...still no tick, lol. So maybe I got lucky? One thing I did do that most people don't anymore is fill the oil filter before installing it. Considering it's part of the oil cooler which is on the return side of the block it shouldn't matter anyway, but It made me feel good inside.

That'd be the direction I am thinking about going.

First photo, realizing the title is a how too for a remote oil filter. The oil flow thru the motor does not change.

The point here is that the filter IS not on the return end of the system.

Adding to the engine noise reality. Read this sometime ago, found a picture of the cause.

2 points to make

The sound is caused or there as a result of on the fly cam timing, adjusting constantly. Thus come and goes with the rpm of the motor, explained under the photo.

Saw an after market design. That was hyped as a way to limit or quite the sound.
I'm sticking with the Ford design, engineers and CADs. Make things look good on a display. Even produce upgraded parts that may function . Not one to be the bata tester, take the wait and see approach

Knowing what the sound is and where it is coming from, is good enough for me.





Pep

 

[NoVaGT]

Possibly getting a 2020 GT, I had the tick on my 18 GT. Are there any great preventive measures that can be done to help reduce the chances of this tick occurring? Break in, oil change interval, oil type, and so on?

I'll go with "beat the living piss out of the engine from mile 1".

Seems to me those with engine issues, have babied their engines early.

How did you break-in the engine on your 2018? Whatever you did, do the opposite.

 

[Rapid Red]

I'll go with "beat the living piss out of the engine from mile 1".

Seems to me those with engine issues, have babied their engines early.

How did you break-in the engine on your 2018? Whatever you did, do the opposite.

Yeah! what the hell it has a warrantee after all............. then you'll be right back here whining like a little 2 year old cause Mustang broke and a piece of crap.

I do not call my car baby. And sure as hell do not drive it, like it's some delicate plastic hot wheels toy.

That said, your advice should be ignored...

"Mods; Plush & luxurious Luxe floor & trunk mats from Lloyds."

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Oh maybe not ? Sporting all the performance mods, even the weight saving Lloyds trunk mats...

That had to take a tenth off the 1320 @ the very least


Got to love it.... drive on....

 

[NoVaGT]

Yeah! what the hell it has a warrantee after all............. then you'll be right back here whining like a little 2 year old cause Mustang broke and a piece of crap.

I do not call my car baby. And sure as hell do not drive it, like it's some delicate plastic hot wheels toy.

That said, your advice should be ignored...

"Mods; Plush & luxurious Luxe floor & trunk mats from Lloyds."

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Oh maybe not ? Sporting all the performance mods, even the weight saving Lloyds trunk mats...

That had to take a tenth off the 1080 @ the very least


Got to love it.... drive on....

Are you being serious right now? Just trolling? Joking?

 

[Rapid Red]

At little of both

 

[NoVaGT]

At little of both

Well, FYI, engine break-in is a hot topic here. Lots and lots of threads on it.

People that baby their engines have seen more issues.....anecdotally at lest.

 

[Bikeman315]

Well, FYI, engine break-in is a hot topic here. Lots and lots of threads on it.

People that baby their engines have seen more issues.....anecdotally at lest.

As the tick is a standard feature on all of our engines, differences in break in procedures are of little consequence. Some folks can hear it, some can't. Some hear it before the first oil change, others after. Ask ten people and you might get eight different answers.

As far as beating the crap out of our engines from the get go.......well of course you can. But in of over 50 years of driving and having family in the business I do not recall anybody ever telling me that the right way to do it. Recommending it to someone who might actually be foolish enough to do borders on being irresponsible. But what the hell, that's what we here on M6G do.

 

[RalphK]

In aviation engines which have large bore diameters it is recommended NOT to baby a new engine. Recommendations are to run at 75%+ power for multiple hours to break in the rings.
I don't race a new car until I get a few miles on it but I sure as hell don't baby it either. Making a few hard pulls right off the bat isn't going to hurt anything, if it does something was wrong to begin with.

 

[ice445]

That'd be the direction I am thinking about going.

First photo, realizing the title is a how too for a remote oil filter. The oil flow thru the motor does not change.

The point here is that the filter IS not on the return end of the system.

Adding to the engine noise reality. Read this sometime ago, found a picture of the cause.

2 points to make

The sound is caused or there as a result of on the fly cam timing, adjusting constantly. Thus come and goes with the rpm of the motor, explained under the photo.

Saw an after market design. That was hyped as a way to limit or quite the sound.
I'm sticking with the Ford design, engineers and CADs. Make things look good on a display. Even produce upgraded parts that may function . Not one to be the bata tester, take the wait and see approach

Knowing what the sound is and where it is coming from, is good enough for me.





Pep

Oh okay, good to know. I hadn't actually seen an oil flow diagram for that.

 

[NoVaGT]

As the tick is a standard feature on all of our engines, differences in break in procedures are of little consequence. Some folks can hear it, some can't. Some hear it before the first oil change, others after. Ask ten people and you might get eight different answers.

As far as beating the crap out of our engines from the get go.......well of course you can. But in of over 50 years of driving and having family in the business I do not recall anybody ever telling me that the right way to do it. Recommending it to someone who might actually be foolish enough to do borders on being irresponsible. But what the hell, that's what we here on M6G do.

There's been plenty of anecdotal evidence here that babying engines early results in oil-burner Coyote engines. Plenty of threads to that effect here. New engines need heat and pressure to bed in lots of contact parts.

There's many reasons Coyotes can tick, and some require shot-blocks to fix. Plenty of those threads here too. It's no imaginative stretch to believe that babying a Coyote engine from the start might also lead to ticks and needed short-block replacements.

Engine design/engineering and manufacturing have changed a lot in the last several decades. Tolerances are tighter, and newer engines definitely seem to need to be beat on to help them be long-living power plants. What hasn't changed in decades, is the manufacturer's break-in procedures. Still straight from the 1950s.

 

[Bikeman315]

There's been plenty of anecdotal evidence here that babying engines early results in oil-burner Coyote engines. Plenty of threads to that effect here. New engines need heat and pressure to bed in lots of contact parts.

There's many reasons Coyotes can tick, and some require shot-blocks to fix. Plenty of those threads here too. It's no imaginative stretch to believe that babying a Coyote engine from the start might also lead to ticks and needed short-block replacements.

Engine design/engineering and manufacturing have changed a lot in the last several decades. Tolerances are tighter, and newer engines definitely seem to need to be beat on to help them be long-living power plants. What hasn't changed in decades, is the manufacturer's break-in procedures. Still straight from the 1950s.

I hear you loud and clear. And I also agree with you. But you know what you mean by beating on an engine. I do too. But there is going to be some newbie on here that will take our advise and destroy their car. Remember we are always talking to the lowest common denominator.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Just did my first oil change, bought the car with 4K miles, I've put on ~2K in the last 11 months or so. Existing oil was pretty cooked, and a little low (based on pouring it back into the new oil containers). I'm not sure if the previous owner did an oil change in the first 4K, but the car was mint otherwise (and from what I found out about the owners, they seem like they would've done all suggested maintenance).

Anyway, went with the regular factor spec, 5W20, full synthetic, the engine is __much__ quieter. Almost no ticks/tocks/etc.

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