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allicedout

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I went ahead and upgraded the injectors to Ford Racing 56lb off the 2020 GT500 and VMP BAP, I wanted to know if it will be safe to start the car with no tune to check for leaks? Alternatively I have the Edlebrock tune that I can load but it won't compensate for the injectors or BAP, anyone know if it will be ok to start up? I just want to make sure everything is ok before getting it over to the dyno.

Thanks
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I went ahead and upgraded the injectors to Ford Racing 56lb off the 2020 GT500 and VMP BAP, I wanted to know if it will be safe to start the car with no tune to check for leaks? Alternatively I have the Edlebrock tune that I can load but it won't compensate for the injectors or BAP, anyone know if it will be ok to start up? I just want to make sure everything is ok before getting it over to the dyno.

Thanks
It will run really bad don't do it. Do you have hp tuners?
 

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I went ahead and upgraded the injectors to Ford Racing 56lb off the 2020 GT500 and VMP BAP, I wanted to know if it will be safe to start the car with no tune to check for leaks? Alternatively I have the Edlebrock tune that I can load but it won't compensate for the injectors or BAP, anyone know if it will be ok to start up? I just want to make sure everything is ok before getting it over to the dyno.

Thanks
When I upgraded to the 2020 GT500 injectors and VMP BAP, I already had a preconfigured base tune from Lund for that combination. The safest way to do it that I know. No problems at all. Only took a few email adjustments to finalize the tune. Dyno'd it to verify and no changes were required. Lund nailed it without a dyno. Fueling is no longer an issue, not even close. If I break my engine, I'll just get a 5.2L replacement. However, I would prefer to avoid both the expense and hassle. 12:1 is a LOT of static compression for 91 octane. Boosted is even trickier. I didn't take the chance. Good luck...
 

illtal

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When I upgraded to the 2020 GT500 injectors and VMP BAP, I already had a preconfigured base tune from Lund for that combination. The safest way to do it that I know. No problems at all. Only took a few email adjustments to finalize the tune. Dyno'd it to verify and no changes were required. Lund nailed it without a dyno. Fueling is no longer an issue, not even close. If I break my engine, I'll just get a 5.2L replacement. However, I would prefer to avoid both the expense and hassle. 12:1 is a LOT of static compression for 91 octane. Boosted is even trickier. I didn't take the chance. Good luck...
The VCT allows differences in cylinder fill. I wouldn't worry about that with some good high octane fuel. The real problem are the pistons I'm the standard g1-3 coyote.

I have lund tune, they have more margin in the standard tunes, but a lot of available advance if the fuel is really good.
 

allicedout

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My issue is that the car will be going to a shop for dyno tuning and they don't use SCT but use a RTD programmer that they buy credits for so getting a start up tune is an issue. Maybe a cheap BAMA tune for start up?
 
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My issue is that the car will be going to a shop for dyno tuning and they don't use SCT but use a RTD programmer that they buy credits for so getting a start up tune is an issue. Maybe a cheap BAMA tune for start up?
Where are you taking it for a tune? I’d try to get something from them for a start up.
 

allicedout

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Where are you taking it for a tune? I’d try to get something from them for a start up.
The plan is to go to CC Performance in Waterloo.... I just want to have the car started and running before I take it there so we're not trying to tune on a car that has a leak or something, I'll have it taken there on a trailer or flat bed. These guys all use RTD for tuning so they can't email me a start up tune, but maybe I should ask the question before I come to that conclusion.
 

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Have you booked in with Arun yet? He’s pretty busy…. Yea, no email tunes…
 

allicedout

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Have you booked in with Arun yet? He’s pretty busy…. Yea, no email tunes…
I want to have the install complete before I book anything, doing it myself so just taking my time so it all gets done right.
 

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What's the smallest upper pulley size with stock lower you all would recommend going with our TVS 2650s? Eaton states on their website that the maximum blower RPM is 18,000 so I'm curious how low people have gone. I am currently running a 3in upper and seeing 9 psi at 7500 rpm. I know that most people see closer to 12-13psi with the 3in but my motor is 10:1 compression and bored .010 over so that is making my pressures a bit lower. I want to see 13 psi but I also don't want to spin the blower too fast.
 

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illtal

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What's the smallest upper pulley size with stock lower you all would recommend going with our TVS 2650s? Eaton states on their website that the maximum blower RPM is 18,000 so I'm curious how low people have gone. I am currently running a 3in upper and seeing 9 psi at 7500 rpm. I know that most people see closer to 12-13psi with the 3in but my motor is 10:1 compression and bored .010 over so that is making my pressures a bit lower. I want to see 13 psi but I also don't want to spin the blower too fast.
On 6 rib lowest you can do without tons of slip is a 3, but you can get a belt wrap helper and do down to a 2.62 or a 2.5, obviously you will need a griptec as well as the helper.

You will need to worry only if you change the lower.
 

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I’m having an increasing stumble occurring mostly when cold, but lately even cruising on the freeway and on city streets…. It looks like the AFR is leaning out way out, dash gauge says "20"....

Any ideas?
 

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Getting close to finishing my install and had a question about the passenger side fuel line. So Edelbrock has the line mounted in the center of the fuel rail, but the fuel line that connects is long enough to reach the first hole that's plugged. Edelbrock seems to think that if the engineers put it there then there must be a reason. However looking the stock fuel rail it feeds from the front. Anyhow at the end of the day it's not a huge deal if I leave it but it does bend the hose quit a bit. Any helps appreciated.

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