The more restriction in the line the gentler the boost comes on and it doesn't drop off as fast. If you're having surge issues like I was adding some kind of restrictor helps. I used the stock pill and drilled it out to around .032" and it feels pretty good.
so I'm at a total of 8. New harness fits though.
I figured 2x the 9hr recommended so I was tickled when we finished it up in 15 hrs especially with the couple set backs we faced.Good start on the install today. Have to go get a 10mm swivel socket to get to the manifold bolts. And I also need to go to HD or ACE or somehwere and pick up yet two more manifold bolts and my package with the new bolts from EB again only came with 4 instead of 10
I say 4 more hours and done. So that more than likley means 8
1/4 drive swivel socket and extension. The one I used was even the old school u joint type. Get them all started before tightening any of them down.
Thank you big time! I would have never known about "hidden bolts" without your picture!There are some hidden bolts you need to remove to get the SC cover off, I've had it off a few times, one of those was to reposition the spring clamp like you have too, how ever you need to be careful how you position it with the lid off bc if you angle it wrong it will prevent the lid from sealing back down on to the blower when you tighten it. This is why I recommend PEX or worm clamps instead of a spring clamp on that top one.
To take it off you need to remove all the 8mm bolts surrounding the line along with the 2 hidden ones under the "TVS 2650 - DP3C" plaque. You will need a really small Allen head, remove the plaque and you will see there is a 8mm hidden under them. The lid does have 2 decorative 8mm's on it as well, it's the ones in the top center, you dont have to remove those, you do you do need to remove all the others ones. When you put it back on make sure you line up the gasket with the dowels, and then the lid to the dowels as well.
circled in red are where the hidden bolts are
Good to hear, luckily my cousin helped me with the install so I only had to do half of them little bastards. We had plenty of bonding time with that step!
You need one of these, the kind that have the swivel built into the socket. I used the smallest 1/4 swivel I had, the normal kind that still need a socket, and spent like 2 hours tightening those bolt bc I could only get like 1/4 turn at time before having to re-seat the socket. If you get that small one in the pic it will be much quicker
Out of interest, if you were to swap the bolts for socket head cap screws, would it be easier (or even possible) with a ball-end Allen key?
