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Nice! Who did you order from?

you need the SW aux idler to get it to not slip, it adds a auxiliary idler to the belt drive to get more belt wrap on the SC pulley

your floater is most likely stuck over the cross over hose which isn't letting it give you a accurate reading below half, this is common. Usually happens when you do the install with fuel still in the tank. When the tank is empty it's not an issue, but when you have fuel in te tank the cross...

you have to get them from the vendor who sells you the Whipple HE, you will need to buy the HE and the mounting bracket/stud parts

Bc it's normally not needed, I was around 800whp and the factory cooler did the job fine. Maybe someone who auto crosses may use one, but for drag racing you dont really need to change it

The DW400 billet hat works great....

GT have non-serviceable canister filter, its the big black thing next to the pump. They have a sock under the pump, and a post pump filter right next to the pump. Since the Shelby hat uses that spit for a second pump, they had to add a in line filter. Thats all the stuff that did NOT make it...

yep, most injector themselves have a basket in them as a last line of defense against particles, but they are easily clogged bc of their size, they're not meant to be the primary source of filtration...

The gt350 uses a inline filter that meets Bosch injector specifications, the pre-pump filter does not meet any injector manufacturer specifications bc it only filters out large particles that could damage the pumps. It's the job of the in line filter to clean up stuff that could dirty the...

Roush has not addressed the intercooler issues bc they are not able too with out a complete redesign of the blower. The way they did it, there is no room for a larger intercooler core

Thats bc the Mighty Mouse is what they use, it's a good can, but you need something with 10AN(5/8") hoses, not 1/2 like they use in the Ls's...You want to either run the Motion Raceworks vented can or the UPR vented one, I've ran both on 2 different cars and both work just fine

2.8" is really fun, just make sure you get the zux idler bracket as well, you will some belt slip w/o it. The 3" is solid though, I trapped 142mph with it and a buddy of mine did 143mph with it and aux idler

for anyone who's tuner gives them shit about the plastic sensor, tell them they have no more excuses, they either lack the will or skill, but they do not lack the data

Kit has been sold

Id ont think it's leaking, the color of the lid and the "wet" part as the same, and it's dry to touch, I think you prob drove through some rain at one point and it left clean spot on the blower. Oil doesn't evaporate, so if it leaked there it would still be oily until it's been cleaned, even...

I'm from Texas, coldest it's been here is 25* and around 35* IAT the dash will show - -, this can be fixed by scaling the low end of the transfer function, it makes it inaccurate, but when your IATs are literally ice cold, does it matter lol...that also doesn't cause issues either, bc once you...

Edelbrock is right, the plastic sensor works fine, I used it on my 18 for 13k miles with no issues. Lund just doesn't want to change the transfer function table for the sensor, either bc they lack the will too, or they lack the sensor data for it. The sensor data is available, I got it from...

Zero issues with plastic sensor here, if you have the transfer function for the sensor you simply put it into the tune and it works perfectly fine.

Supercharger is pending sale to @2019Kyot for local pick up.

You have to take the intercooler lid off in order to reach the bolts that hold the entire unit to the heads. You should watch ones of the install videos and try and get as many parts off as you can since the head unit alone isn't going to be as useful with out the belt drive system needed to run it.