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Burkey

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I've never driven a Whipple car but even my measly 2300 kit hits really hard down low. I got a smoking deal on my kit otherwise I probably would have stayed stock motor for a while longer.
Don’t get me wrong. The Whipple goes just fine once it’s up over 4K or thereabouts, I just want it to feel more like a big-block.
I’ll be doing a thread on the process of swapping Whipple to Eddy and the results once it’s done. Just waiting for it to arrive so I can get started. :thumbsup:
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rum_punch_ruby

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EB tune file received, will update the SCT software this weekend.

This morning I went through the instructions and separated the parts needed for each step. Plan is that it will help speed up the install. Also aided in inventory.

Missing 6 bolts and the temp harness would not fit on the brass sensor. Have an email in to Tony at EB and hope to have these items so I can still install on Monday.

Gonna read through this thread and the instructions a couple more times between now and then.

Might be overkill but it eases my OCD and give some peace of mind everything was done correctly.

And the extra hardware pieces as was mentioned.
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Jobodizo

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@rum_punch_ruby you're just like me, plastic foldy tables and all! I actually did the intercooler/pump install a day before everything else...helps cut down on day-of stuff to worry about.
 

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@rum_punch_ruby you're just like me, plastic foldy tables and all! I actually did the intercooler/pump install a day before everything else...helps cut down on day-of stuff to worry about.
That’s funny as well! I have the same plastic folding table as well that I brought up from the basement to lay everything out on!

Man, I just can’t seem to find any time to get moving on this though! It’s killing me!
 

ForYourOwnGood

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EB tune file received, will update the SCT software this weekend.

This morning I went through the instructions and separated the parts needed for each step. Plan is that it will help speed up the install. Also aided in inventory.

Missing 6 bolts and the temp harness would not fit on the brass sensor. Have an email in to Tony at EB and hope to have these items so I can still install on Monday.

Gonna read through this thread and the instructions a couple more times between now and then.

Might be overkill but it eases my OCD and give some peace of mind everything was done correctly.

And the extra hardware pieces as was mentioned.
Brotha man let me give you an advice you might have missed in the thread... don't use those spring clamps. Run down to the auto parts store and get an equal number of worm clamps, plus 2 small ones for the ends of the bypass actuator line. Many have had leaks on the intercooler circuit with those little guys.
 

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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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Brotha man let me give you an advice you might have missed in the thread... don't use those spring clamps. Run down to the auto parts store and get an equal number of worm clamps, plus 2 small ones for the ends of the bypass actuator line. Many have had leaks on the intercooler circuit with those little guys.
This.
 

Kona 18

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Brotha man let me give you an advice you might have missed in the thread... don't use those spring clamps. Run down to the auto parts store and get an equal number of worm clamps, plus 2 small ones for the ends of the bypass actuator line. Many have had leaks on the intercooler circuit with those little guys.
The only spring clip that gave me issues is the top fitting of the blower housing, it's such a tight fit that getting that clamp to go in there was almost impossible, def run worm or PEX clamps instead. PEX clamps will be a much cleaner install but not something you can find locally, not in the size you need.

I added spring clamps to my bypass as well, it popped off on mine once.


IMG_7112.jpg
 

rum_punch_ruby

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What step in the instructions will need this tool?
Its in there somewhere. Right before you remove the manifold. I got one that worked at Advance Auto, its a blue 3/8 tool but had much thicker walls than the other ones I had. Worked like a charm.
Figured it out. Instructions don't explicitly have it in there. Should be step 45.5 after disconnecting fuel line from rail, disconnect fuel line from fire wall.
 

rum_punch_ruby

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Went through and made some notes in the instructions including the ones posted in this thread. Now all that's left is to do it.
 

dragonszar

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The only spring clip that gave me issues is the top fitting of the blower housing, it's such a tight fit that getting that clamp to go in there was almost impossible, def run worm or PEX clamps instead. PEX clamps will be a much cleaner install but not something you can find locally, not in the size you need.

I added spring clamps to my bypass as well, it popped off on mine once.


IMG_7112.jpg
I have issues with that top fitting on the blower unit as well. I let go of my pliers too early and it's not sitting right, there isn't enough space to get the pliers on there to re position the clamps again. I think the only way to get to it is to remove the top cover on the super charger blower. Any body know the proper way to remove it? When I attempted to remove it, I removed all the bolts, but it doesn't want to come off. The rear of the cover towards the cabin lifts up with the bolts removed, but in front of the unit towards the throttle body it does nut budge.
 

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Jobodizo

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Kona 18

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I have issues with that top fitting on the blower unit as well. I let go of my pliers too early and it's not sitting right, there isn't enough space to get the pliers on there to re position the clamps again. I think the only way to get to it is to remove the top cover on the super charger blower. Any body know the proper way to remove it? When I attempted to remove it, I removed all the bolts, but it doesn't want to come off. The rear of the cover towards the cabin lifts up with the bolts removed, but in front of the unit towards the throttle body it does nut budge.
There are some hidden bolts you need to remove to get the SC cover off, I've had it off a few times, one of those was to reposition the spring clamp like you have too, how ever you need to be careful how you position it with the lid off bc if you angle it wrong it will prevent the lid from sealing back down on to the blower when you tighten it. This is why I recommend PEX or worm clamps instead of a spring clamp on that top one.

To take it off you need to remove all the 8mm bolts surrounding the line along with the 2 hidden ones under the "TVS 2650 - DP3C" plaque. You will need a really small Allen head, remove the plaque and you will see there is a 8mm hidden under them. The lid does have 2 decorative 8mm's on it as well, it's the ones in the top center, you dont have to remove those, you do you do need to remove all the others ones. When you put it back on make sure you line up the gasket with the dowels, and then the lid to the dowels as well.

circled in red are where the hidden bolts are
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