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Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

rum_punch_ruby

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What oil separator are you all running with this kit and where did you mount it? Will the JLT one for Whipple or Roush applications work?
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Jobodizo

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What oil separator are you all running with this kit and where did you mount it? Will the JLT one for Whipple or Roush applications work?
I don’t think the Roush one will work. I grabbed a remote mount Whipple JLT and cut the return end off since EB just uses a nipple instead of the oem style. If you already have a JLT or similar you can just splice it in with hose clamps.
 

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Wasn’t able to use the Subaru orifice because it was too small to constrain without worrying about the engine ingesting it. I ended up with this guy:
8399C6A9-0DD0-48F6-A8D6-F6CA93178C83.jpeg

The .040” hole is almost 3x the one that comes with the EB kit. It makes for a nice transition. Still easy to get into boost, but not as quick to hop out.
I’m curious as to why you’re trying to slow the transition to boost.
Is the boost coming on too abruptly under normal driving conditions?
Have you tried using snow/wet mode? Does that make the transition a little nicer?
I ask because one of my tunes has a ludicrous pedal to TB ratio, making it literally impossible to touch the loud pedal without boost. It’s great fun but not great in traffic with the car beingFAR too eager....
Snow/wet mode makes it MUCH friendlier but clearly that’s not the ultimate solution.
I’m basically just curious if Edelbrock might do better to just slow the ratio in the first “x” amount of pedal travel.
 
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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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I’m curious as to why you’re trying to slow the transition to boost.
Is the boost coming on too abruptly under normal driving conditions?
Have you tried using snow/wet mode? Does that make the transition a little nicer?
I ask because one of my tunes has a ludicrous pedal to TB ratio, making it literally impossible to touch the loud pedal without boost. It’s great fun but not great in traffic with the car beingFAR too eager....
Snow/wet mode makes it MUCH friendlier but clearly that’s not the ultimate solution.
I’m basically just curious if Edelbrock might do better to just slow the ratio in the first “x” amount of pedal travel.
It’s not an issue with the transition TO boost so much as out of it. Without the pill in there it’s a little bit too easy for the car to slip out of boost at partial throttle. It gave me problems a couple of times when all of a sudden the power would drop off and I would have to reengage. You can get partial boost on the way up, but not so much on the way back down. I don’t necessarily want to be at full throttle all the time to keep boost going on highway merging situations.
 

Kona 18

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As far as cutting ribs off the belts, just go at it with a razor knife, or is there a better way?
Yeah, really sharp razor blade and just cut down the groove, think of like cutting cardboard, you'll run the blade through the groove like 2-3x to cut all the way through. Should take more than a few minutes though, just make sure you don't try and cut and then think you can just pull the ribs away from the belt and it will only rip those 2 ribs off.
 

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I bought the JLT do it yourself kit.
6BF870F0-E4FC-41F0-AF9D-CD753BAA4899.png
You may want to check for false knock my can was mounted like that and was contacting the cover. It was pulling timing out big time on shifts. You could see black spot on the coil cover where it was touching.
 

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K080817HD has been installed, I did cut 2 ribs off using a very sharp razor blade, the cut came out quite smooth with little to no fraying. The site that was cut is the side facing the camera.

I threw the Valuecraft belt in the trunk to hold too as a spare. It wasn’t actually quite a sticky belt, I had to really pull it to pry it off the idlers.
4A551EF3-8627-4FB2-A379-EA978154AE27.jpeg
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@Kona 18 thats with the 3”, correct? Also, that large bore tb and overflow make your compartment look sick!
 

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So I've been paying attention since I put my boost gauge in and I remember Alex telling me I needed a lot more fuel up top and I needed the BAP but my car seems to be making 14psi instead of 11.
 

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So I've been paying attention since I put my boost gauge in and I remember Alex telling me I needed a lot more fuel up top and I needed the BAP but my car seems to be making 14psi instead of 11.
2650 blower?
What size pulley?
 

Kona 18

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@Kona 18 thats with the 3”, correct? Also, that large bore tb and overflow make your compartment look sick!
Yes this is on the 3" pulley. And yeah, the radium billet reservoir is super nice, I couldn't stand the look of the stock plastic unit

2300 blower, and it only comes with one size supposedly.
that seems like a lot of boost for the basic pulley that comes with the kit, Do you have stock headers/cats still? Normally those cause more exhaust restriction which can lead to higher manifold pressures, but 14psi still seems like more than what you should be seeing with the included pulley on the 2300 kit
 

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Yes this is on the 3" pulley. And yeah, the radium billet reservoir is super nice, I couldn't stand the look of the stock plastic unit



that seems like a lot of boost for the basic pulley that comes with the kit, Do you have stock headers/cats still? Normally those cause more exhaust restriction which can lead to higher manifold pressures, but 14psi still seems like more than what you should be seeing with the included pulley on the 2300 kit
Yeah it seems very high, the kit specifies totally 100% stock car should see 11psi max. Wonder if my gauge is off.
 

Kona 18

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Yeah it seems very high, the kit specifies totally 100% stock car should see 11psi max. Wonder if my gauge is off.
Is it a mechanical gauge? If so, they are sensitive to bumps, drops, and NVH, it can throw off the internals and cause it to read wrong. Thats why I prefer electric ones, they self calibrate to ambient pressure every start up. If yours is electric maybe the sensor got damaged, some gauges include little filters you can add to the boost hose to prevent debris and small particulates from getting into the sensor
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