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West TX GT

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Anyone here try the Kong Performance 112mm throttle body? I think I might go that route instead of the Edelbrock TB, almost the the same price. That paired with the Juggernaut pmas intake. If anyone has tried it what were the results?
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wsfrazier

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I was looking at the 112mm kong one as well since I am still on the factory Ford one. Might as well get the biggest one I can and buy it once.

How large is the biggest whipple TB for gen3 cars? Can always get an adapter fabricated locally.
 

West TX GT

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I am also on the stock TB. 80mm to 112mm is a decent jump in size. It think it is 123mm for the Whipple.
 

wsfrazier

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I see a whipple TB as large as 150mm for 2018+ cars. Temping to go with that and have my local fabricator make it work. Making an intake fit wouldn't be fun.

Probably talk to Lund first and see what he prefers since hes the one that has to make it drive.
 

illtal

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I just bought the 103mm TB, I wasn't aware of the Kong Unit's compatibility.
EB's TB is getting rather expensive, But I believe the real gains from going larger than 103mm is probably going to be made at big boy boost levels.
I'm starting a few projects for this community, I am working up a few designs on Solidworks, and hopefully I can get some working prototypes to test out before too long.
 

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illtal

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Is there any sort of check valve in any of those lines? Flows one way and closes the other?

glad it’s working now!

Huge relief I bet!!!

congrats!
I don't think so, there would be a complete blockage to the Passenger side Port injectors & DI Pump if this was the case (check valve). Since the fuel comes in on the Driver side, I would be the only bank with fuel. I don't think it would even start that way.
 

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Is this something that had to be considered during initial tune or does same logic apply regardless of who tunes it? I would probably be more worried about going for more boost but I’m this case I think I’ll go up to the 3.25 on my 2300 soon to “be safe”
Mate, don’t overthink it. I’m running a 3,25” on my 2650. You’re safe enough on that same size pulley with the 2300 you’re running. In fact, I know of plenty of guys running conservative tunes (including Lund) here in Australia on their 2300 units using either a 75mm (2.95””) or 79mm pulley (3.10”).
Just keep good quality fuel in it and you’ll be right. Read: avoid your local United servo.
We don’t typically suffer from the same fuel quality variation issues that they see in the US.
Stick to BP/Shell/Caltex you’ll be fine.
 

West TX GT

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I just bought the 103mm TB, I wasn't aware of the Kong Unit's compatibility.
EB's TB is getting rather expensive, But I believe the real gains from going larger than 103mm is probably going to be made at big boy boost levels.
I'm starting a few projects for this community, I am working up a few designs on Solidworks, and hopefully I can get some working prototypes to test out before too long.
I was going to go with the EB throttle body also but the price is almost the same so I might as well go Kong.
Interesting. Keep us updated when you come out with something.
 

illtal

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I was going to go with the EB throttle body also but the price is almost the same so I might as well go Kong.
Interesting. Keep us updated when you come out with something.
I'm working on some adapters, a bigger better metal surge bottle and a few other things. I'm still stuck in Italy so I have some free time to mock design stuff until I get back home and get the actual parts in my hand so I can finalize a piece before I have them sent out for cnc.

Another area I felt we have a gap is the intake for us that went stage one but have a bigger TB. Covid19 got me screwed up. I've had these ideas since last year but I couldn't move in them with all that's been going on.
 

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Mate, don’t overthink it. I’m running a 3,25” on my 2650. You’re safe enough on that same size pulley with the 2300 you’re running. In fact, I know of plenty of guys running conservative tunes (including Lund) here in Australia on their 2300 units using either a 75mm (2.95””) or 79mm pulley (3.10”).
Just keep good quality fuel in it and you’ll be right. Read: avoid your local United servo.
We don’t typically suffer from the same fuel quality variation issues that they see in the US.
Stick to BP/Shell/Caltex you’ll be fine.
Thanks Burkey I do overthink these things since it’s my first modded car haha. Just want to ensure it’s safe since I’ve seen the debate about smallest pulley on pump fuel etc.
 

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Burkey

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Thanks Burkey I do overthink these things since it’s my first modded car haha. Just want to ensure it’s safe since I’ve seen the debate about smallest pulley on pump fuel etc.
Stick with the 3.25”. You’re already well and truly safe enough on that pulley. If the engine were to let-go at that boost level, it probably wouldn’t have survived with less boost anyways.
There are plenty of people pushing stock engines MUCH harder than you’re asking of yours.
 

Memz

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Stick with the 3.25”. You’re already well and truly safe enough on that pulley. If the engine were to let-go at that boost level, it probably wouldn’t have survived with less boost anyways.
There are plenty of people pushing stock engines MUCH harder than you’re asking of yours.
My 2300 came with the 3.0 pulley so I have that. I was originally asking if there are issues going to a 3.25 just to keep it safe or does it generally need a re tune due to less boost
 

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So I just started getting a whine from my supercharger behind the pulley. I'm guessing it's the bearing. Increases with RPM, used a stethoscope to pinpoint it although it's pretty loud. Anyone had this issue before? Is that bearing easy to replace?
 

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So I just started getting a whine from my supercharger behind the pulley. I'm guessing it's the bearing. Increases with RPM, used a stethoscope to pinpoint it although it's pretty loud. Anyone had this issue before? Is that bearing easy to replace?
Are you referring to the S/C pulley? Whether that or the others, its easy enough to bench press an old bearing out and press a new one in. Get the bearings at an industrial bearing supply warehouse.
 

H00CH90

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Are you referring to the S/C pulley? Whether that or the others, its easy enough to bench press an old bearing out and press a new one in. Get the bearings at an industrial bearing supply warehouse.
Yep, the bearing just behind the pulley in the SC. Talked to edelbrock and they want the entire head unit shipped but also mentioned that could be risky and cause more damage. Probably just going to have a friend press it out and replace it.
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