Do all 6g stangs come with the same alignment?

[boB]

I'm not sure that info can be fully trusted.

My only data point is the 350 and the 350R, but the values shown in that table vary from what is printed in the owners supplement.



If we can trust the table and we eliminate the shelby variants with different hardware, yeah that's one of a few that flips the front / rear camber bias (along with the HP mach).

Its interesting to see that the higher performance NA variants do that, as its what BMR have been recommending for quite a while now :


BMR recommend 0.25 to 0.50 less camber on the rear than the front

WD

I agree, the numbers appear to be off. Mine measures -1.5 on both fronts, slightly less on the rears (by eyeball, haven't checked the rear with a level) . Mine tracks well and tire wear is even.

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[Turbo Cow]

They all come with whatever they were aligned to while assembled. The can't possibly the same but likely all are within the same spec.

First thing you should do is check where your alignment is because it might be off - don't assume it's what it what assembled with or that during build it was aligned correctly. You probably have some toe out in the front - set it to zero and you'll be fine.

I ask because I need to know what it's 'supposed' to be at when I take it to get aligned. How else would I know that it is out of spec? And what if the alignment shop tries to put a standard GT alignment on it when it requires a different setting?

 

[galaxy]

I ask because I need to know what it's 'supposed' to be at when I take it to get aligned. How else would I know that it is out of spec? And what if the alignment shop tries to put a standard GT alignment on it when it requires a different setting?

If you’ve got a shop that knows what they’re doing, they will have the specs. You don’t have to bring the specs with you (unless you want something different). Again, assuming a great shop, where it’s at now is irrelevant. Being out of spec now is irrelevant. They’re gonna put it to spec.

 

[Turbo Cow]

If you’ve got a shop that knows what they’re doing, they will have the specs. You don’t have to bring the specs with you (unless you want something different). Again, assuming a great shop, where it’s at now is irrelevant. Being out of spec now is irrelevant. They’re gonna put it to spec.

Will they? Or will they tell me there's no difference between the gt and the gt performance package like all the inbred mechanics round here?

 

[kz]

Will they? Or will they tell me there's no difference between the gt and the gt performance package like all the inbred mechanics round here?

You're overthinking this. Geometry suspension is exactly the same between the two, they have slightly different spring rates, dampers and some (very minimal) less compliance due to two spherical bearings instead of bushings. Non-PP GT alignment spec will work perfectly fine on PP one . The only difference per the manual (as someone quoted above) between PP and non-PP is front camber - which ironically is not adjustable. Rear camber and front/rear toe is the same.

Beside - 99.9% of people can't tell difference between alignment setting that are in spec on a street driven car. Put toe plates on the front or go have someone measure front / rear toe on your car.

 

[boB]

I ask because I need to know what it's 'supposed' to be at when I take it to get aligned. How else would I know that it is out of spec? And what if the alignment shop tries to put a standard GT alignment on it when it requires a different setting?

"Supposed to be" depends a lot on what you intend to do with your Mustang. Grocery-getting, interstate-cruising, spirited driving, autocross, and track days will work much better with application-specific alignment settings. Ford gives specs to please most drivers, who probably don't plan on a track day.

 

[shogun32]

just go -1.5 to -2.3 front camber and "zero" toe, rear -1.2 to -1.7 w/ 0.1-0.13 toe in PER SIDE. Your car will impress. However you will need camber plates to get the bigger numbers up front.

Ford ships every car mis-aligned.

 

[NightmareMoon]

.. and they’re still inadequate and still need to be tailored to the user’s preferences and the application.

theres nothing magic about Ford’s published alignment numbers. The GT350R and Mach1 numbers are barely starting to scratch the surface of a good track alignment, and that alignment would be good for any random GT who wants to track his car too!

very little from mustang variant to mustang variant would mean they want for different alignment numbers, other than the users intentions for using the car. Ford is basically only guessing at this from the model variant you bought. You can read between the lines of these numbers what they think of you

for the OP, check your toe, its usually what makes the car darty on the highway. If its unusually darty under acceleration, then there are a couple other things to watch for.

for example, I just changed some parts out on my front suspension and my steering got really heavy, so I suspected my toe was too far toe in. Checked it with plates today and its about 2-3x what I want for front toe in. If it was extra light and darty, I would have expected too much toe out.

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