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DIY Alignment Kit

NGOT8R

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boB

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It is good for camber, ok for caster, and fine for toe *but only for toe relative to the opposite wheel*, not for toe relative to front and rear. In other words we could have the front and rear in spec for toe but pointing in different directions.
This is not likely to be a big problem but if we want it right the toe should be measured with respect to the chassis centerline and this kit will not do that.
 
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NGOT8R

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It is good for camber, ok for caster, and fine for toe *but only for toe relative to the opposite wheel*, not for toe relative to front and rear. In other words we could have the front and rear in spec for toe but pointing in different directions.
This is not likely to be a big problem but if we want it right the toe should be measured with respect to the chassis centerline and this kit will not do that.
I gotcha! Thanks!
 

DougS550

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It is good for camber, ok for caster, and fine for toe *but only for toe relative to the opposite wheel*, not for toe relative to front and rear. In other words we could have the front and rear in spec for toe but pointing in different directions.
This is not likely to be a big problem but if we want it right the toe should be measured with respect to the chassis centerline and this kit will not do that.
Which kit does chassis Centerline?
 

boB

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galaxy

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Yup...learn how to do the string method. But @boB ...what laser pointers? They accomplish the same thing as setting up the strings?
 

boB

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Yup...learn how to do the string method. But @boB ...what laser pointers? They accomplish the same thing as setting up the strings?
The ones I custom made. ;) They are similar in function to some $$ alignment setups and accurate to about 1/8 degree. Apart from not tripping over strings they take about as much time as string alignment (lots of time).

mustang_align_.webp
 

WildHorse

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String, plumb bob, & measuring tape works just as well.. but takes skill, patience, & lots of time Haha.
 
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andrewtac

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I used to do string method on my 66. I got pretty good, usually took longer to setup than align. It wasn't hard, but yeah I tripped on the strings. While I am a big DIY guy, this is one of those things I pay for now. I think it is $100. But I do leave mine in the drag race setup. It is the street drag race compromise that kelltrac recommends.

I thought you were a straight line racer, not a round track guy. If so then I don't think the difference (between street/drag versus all out drag race only) is worth the effort or money to go back and forth. Otherwise there is some new stuff out that uses pucks/spacers to set some of the alignment. You could go to the shop and have then set it up both ways with those spacers and then just adjust at home to what your doing.
 
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NGOT8R

NGOT8R

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I used to do string method on my 66. I got pretty good, usually took longer to setup than align. It wasn't hard, but yeah I tripped on the strings. While I am a big DIY guy, this is one of those things I pay for now. I think it is $100. But I do leave mine in the drag race setup. It is the street drag race compromise that kelltrac recommends.

I thought you were a straight line racer, not a round track guy. If so then I don't think the difference (between street/drag versus all out drag race only) is worth the effort or money to go back and forth. Otherwise there is some new stuff out that uses pucks/spacers to set some of the alignment. You could go to the shop and have then set it up both ways with those spacers and then just adjust at home to what your doing.
Can you please post a pic of the alignment sheet showing what street/strip compromise settings Kelltrac recommends? Thanks
 

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andrewtac

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andrewtac

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Only diff is very slight rear camber.
 

andrewtac

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I used a local shop, nothing fancy. They are a normal auto repair shop (not race oriented, or a speciality location). I gave them the sheet, they got the results very very close. I think it was $100.
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