Dead battery

[20ducks]

hasn't been started for a grand total of 3 days. Went to start it up and nothing. Hooked up a battery charger and then a poping sound through the speakers about1 per second. It has been charging for about 15 minutes. I didn't see any indication that this is an "AGM" battery, whatever that means, so I left it on 12v normal. What the heck is going on with this car?? Is this a battery issue? or something more drastic? btw, haven't had anything running like the radio or lamps or anything. Need some advice with this please.

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[ORRadtech]

You don't say how old the battery is.
Batteries can go bad at any point. My factory battery lasted a little over 2 years. When they go they do very odd things.
I'd suggest you remove the neg cable from the battery and charge the battery overnight. Then have it load tested.

 

[20ducks]

I just bought the car at the end of June.

 

[ORRadtech]

The only change in my advice would be to take it to the dealer. If it's a new car, as opposed to used, the battery should be under warranty.

 

[Soulja4187]

hasn't been started for a grand total of 3 days. Went to start it up and nothing. Hooked up a battery charger and then a poping sound through the speakers about1 per second. It has been charging for about 15 minutes. I didn't see any indication that this is an "AGM" battery, whatever that means, so I left it on 12v normal. What the heck is going on with this car?? Is this a battery issue? or something more drastic? btw, haven't had anything running like the radio or lamps or anything. Need some advice with this please.

I started having issues by getting warning on the ford app and also car having hard time starting the car when it sat to long. I was baffled because why would a car that was built in March of 2020 start having battery issues. I started digging around and notice that the glove compartment light stays on because the tab that it's supposed to press on the switch was barely touching it so the light stayed on day and night. On the days I didnt use for 2 or more days I would get low voltage warning on the ford app.

My fix was easy I bought a square rubber piece and glued it to tab that is supposed to touch the switch when you close it and ever since then no more battery/warning issues. Check your car and see if you see light coming through the gaps.

 

[20ducks]

I started having issues by getting warning on the ford app and also car having hard time starting the car when it sat to long. I was baffled because why would a car that was built in March of 2020 start having battery issues. I started digging around and notice that the glove compartment light stays on because the tab that it's supposed to press on the switch was barely touching it so the light stayed on day and night. On the days I didnt use for 2 or more days I would get low voltage warning on the ford app.

My fix was easy I bought a square rubber piece and glued it to tab that is supposed to touch the switch when you close it and ever since then no more battery/warning issues. Check your car and see if you see light coming through the gaps.

I'll

 

[NoVaGT]

Call the dealership. Have them tow it in, or bring a new battery out to your home.

Batteries shit the bed sometimes, no biggie.

 

[Elp_jc]

I just bought the car at the end of June.

But how long did it sit at the dealer??? THAT is the question you need answered. Look at the build date of your car on the white label on driver's side door sill. My car sat for over 6 months at the dealer, so battery was basically toast when I bought it. I didn't want another crappy wet cell, so just replaced it with an identical 96R AGM from Advanced Auto (which are DieHards now) on my dime. Much safer, and a better battery. If you want the same thing, try getting it replaced under warranty. But if they want to charge you pro-ration, I'd just buy an AGM myself. Good luck.

 

[Jennings1066]

I had the same issue with the glove boxlight staying on. Found a dash clip behind back wall of glove box unit. Behind the box there is a sleve where the box hooks into. It was behind that at the bottom. Just loosened the screws and it fell out. Now the box closes tight.

 

[thunderstrike]

All I can see is a crack.

 

[barron64]

My factory battery just crapped out on me. Car was built in 12/17 so not even 3yrs old. No warning either... drove earlier this week, tried to drive last night and car was in deep sleep mode. Tried charging battery but it was toast. Pita to deal with this this morning but Ford replaced for free. Glad I was not off on a trip somewhere. I wonder if Motorcraft Max battery is a better battery than what came in car? Factory battery had no identification on it. BTW, you don’t loose much information and presets when replacing battery...just a few things had to be updated.

 

[DougS550]

I just bought the car at the end of June.

I bought my car in April and the dealer had to charge the battery due to being low voltage. I have 700 miles on imy car now and last week my battery was my battery was dead. I bought a new one, didn't bother with Ford. But, I will do a static load check next week to see if their is a out of spec current draw from the electrical system with car off.

 

[SAL-E]

I had a similar experience with mine sitting on the lot for 10 months. Replaced the battery and it has been fine ever since. I also did not go with a Motorcraft battery.

 

[Elp_jc]

I replaced my battery yesterday too, with a DieHard 96R AGM (factory size & specs). Presets were preserved, but XM was on the preview channel. Seat memories are preserved too, but last time I used one a mirror went nuts (clicking loudly upward beyond its adjustment range), so this time I just re-set the memories again, and no issues with the mirrors. I lost all digital dash settings (MyMode, gauge choices, dash mode, etc), however, except the gauge colors.

As a side comment, I also noticed my car was charging at 14V all the time, even though I fully charged the battery before installing it. Maybe it'll revert back to changing between 12.5 and 13.5 after a few miles. Need to reset the BMS today too.

Finally, the battery in our cars is super marginal, so it discharges much quicker than on other cars. My wife's 2.0T (with much lower compression) has a much larger battery (H6) than my 5.0 with 12.0 c/r. I didn't want to get an even heavier larger battery, mostly due to not being able to leave the box closed, but also not to add even more weight to the pig. Ha ha. But I charge it often, thru a pigtail (don't have to open the box every time).

 

[DougS550]

I replaced my battery yesterday too, with a DieHard 96R AGM (factory size & specs). Presets were preserved, but XM was on the preview channel. Seat memories are preserved too, but last time I used one a mirror went nuts (clicking loudly upward beyond its adjustment range), so this time I just re-set the memories again, and no issues with the mirrors. I lost all digital dash settings (MyMode, gauge choices, dash mode, etc), however, except the gauge colors.

As a side comment, I also noticed my car was charging at 14V all the time, even though I fully charged the battery before installing it. Maybe it'll revert back to changing between 12.5 and 13.5 after a few miles. Need to reset the BMS today too.

Finally, the battery in our cars is super marginal, so it discharges much quicker than on other cars. My wife's 2.0T (with much lower compression) has a much larger battery (H6) than my 5.0 with 12.0 c/r. I didn't want to get an even heavier larger battery, mostly due to not being able to leave the box closed, but also not to add even more weight to the pig. Ha ha. But I charge it often, thru a pigtail (don't have to open the box every time).

I just did a Static Current check today. The car has a very high 3.2 current draw with car turned off. I will have to T/S to find out where the excessive current draw is. A normal static current for a newer car should be lower than .5 amps.

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