Battery drained dead

[Cobra Jet]

Not understanding why some are having battery issues if the car is sitting 2-3 weeks without a charge or start.

With freaking COVID in play, my 2018 has sat in the garage without a start for 3, 4 and 5 weeks at a time without a starting issue.

Do any of you have anything aftermarket hooked up - radar detectors, cams, sound system, etc?

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[RPDBlueMoon]

Yeah. That's part of it. It's about the physical size of the battery and the plates inside. In a really simplistic explanation a bigger battery = bigger plates = more capacity = less stress on the battery = longer life. Like I said that's a real simplified explanation as batteries have a bunch of other factors that determine a batteries quality/ abilities. It's a whole science...

So the you can buy batteries that have more capacity then right? Im just asking because I have seen posts about people getting new and different batteries but I don't know why. If it doesn't make it last any longer than why get something different than stock (unless its for racing or something)

 

[RPDBlueMoon]

Not understanding why some are having battery issues if the car is sitting 2-3 weeks without a charge or start.

With freaking COVID in play, my 2018 has sat in the garage without a start for 3, 4 and 5 weeks at a time without a starting issue.

Do any of you have anything aftermarket hooked up - radar detectors, cams, sound system, etc?

Yeah I don't think its normal. Mine sat for about 3 weeks and started up just fine, there could be something else going. That's definitely not normal for a car to have problems within 3 weeks unless its extremely cold or something.

 

[Chef jpd]

XS Power D4700
Fits like a glove, AGM and serious firepower.

Also
AC Delco, 47AGM. Drop in replacement.

Stock battery is scrap.

 

[RPDBlueMoon]

XS Power D4700
Fits like a glove, AGM and serious firepower.

Also
AC Delco, 47AGM. Drop in replacement.

Stock battery is scrap.

Thanks

 

[ChrisJ]

No

Not understanding why some are having battery issues if the car is sitting 2-3 weeks without a charge or start.

With freaking COVID in play, my 2018 has sat in the garage without a start for 3, 4 and 5 weeks at a time without a starting issue.

Do any of you have anything aftermarket hooked up - radar detectors, cams, sound system, etc?

Nope car is stock nothing extra hooked up.

 

[Five_OhGT]

If I don't drive my car for about a week (typical since it isn't my daily driver), it won't start up and will click. After that, I bought a trickle charger and just plug it in after my days off so it will be ready to start on my next weekend.

It's worth noting that I do have a radar detector, dash cam, and tuner all plugged in which certainly doesn't help...

 

[frank s]

XS Power D4700
Fits like a glove, AGM and serious firepower.

Also
AC Delco, 47AGM. Drop in replacement.

Stock battery is scrap.

While we're on the subject of more substantial output and reserves, and batteries that are, like, three-eighths of an inch taller than original equipment see my images that might make it more vivid.

 

[WD Pro]

It's not about voltage. All car batteries are around 12.6 volts resting. Bigger batteries are more about reserve capacity than anything else.

Voltage does come into it. when you look what happens under operation (rather than just at rest / stabilised open circuit). A battery that can hold a higher voltage when it's under load will have an advantage over one that drops quickly - internal design (not just age) can have an influence.

Yeah. That's part of it. It's about the physical size of the battery and the plates inside. In a really simplistic explanation a bigger battery = bigger plates = more capacity = less stress on the battery = longer life. Like I said that's a real simplified explanation as batteries have a bunch of other factors that determine a batteries quality/ abilities. It's a whole science...

You are right, but whilst weight can be a guiding factor, its not the only significant influence. Active material utilisation, electrolyte utilisation, surface area, design of the current collectors, separator technology etc, etc, etc all play their part.

A thick (heavy) plate will will not necessarily perform any better than a thin (light) plate in a high load / short duration (i.e. automotive) application. That type of load requires surface area to provide instant access to the active material. If you throw a copper negative in there the performance goes up and the weight goes down ...

Alternatively, thin plates don't always do well in in low draw / long duration (i.e. leisure or motive power) applications.

When you throw expected cycle life into the mix, you can see what compromises need to be made by a battery manufacturer when targeting specific applications.

This is what amuses me when someone fits a particular type of battery to 'application A' as they have had great experiences with them, but in a completely different 'application B' ...

A good weight analogy would be to cubic inch - I suppose it's a good guide to the engines potential, but its not always the guy with the most (cubic) inches (lol) that has the fastest / most powerful motor.

Coyote owners should relate to that quite well

WD

 

[ORRadtech]

Voltage does come into it. when you look what happens under operation (rather than just at rest / stabilised open circuit). A battery that can hold a higher voltage when it's under load will have an advantage over one that drops quickly - internal design (not just age) can have an influence.

True,
But not when you go to buy a battery. You don't ask for a 14V battery or an 18V one. Which is what I believed was being asked.

You are right, but whilst weight can be a guiding factor, its not the only significant influence. Active material utilisation, electrolyte utilisation, surface area, design of the current collectors, separator technology etc, etc, etc all play their part.

A thick (heavy) plate will will not necessarily perform any better than a thin (light) plate in a high load / short duration (i.e. automotive) application. That type of load requires surface area to provide instant access to the active material. If you throw a copper negative in there the performance goes up and the weight goes down ...

Alternatively, thin plates don't always do well in in low draw / long duration (i.e. leisure or motive power) applications.

When you throw expected cycle life into the mix, you can see what compromises need to be made by a battery manufacturer when targeting specific applications.

This is what amuses me when someone fits a particular type of battery to 'application A' as they have had great experiences with them, but in a completely different 'application B' ...

True again.
But you did read where I twice said that it was a very simplistic explanation, right? I felt that a long dissertation on battery chemistry, construction and characteristics might muddy the waters.


A good weight analogy would be to cubic inch - I suppose it's a good guide to the engines potential, but its not always the guy with the most (cubic) inches (lol) that has the fastest / most powerful motor.

Coyote owners should relate to that quite well
.
That' true in many aspects of life. The pretty girl doesn't always go with the handsome rich guy...
But, with two different CID engines, set up as alike as possible, there will be no replacement for displacement.

WD

 

[WD Pro]

@ORRadtech - I agree on all points

WD

 

[The Chairman]

Data points for you: the original battery in my ‘16 GT350 is now almost 5 years old and cranks every time. The original battery in my ‘09 GT500KR lasted over 10 years.
I seldom drive the cars. The trick is keeping them on trickle chargers. A fully charged battery will last a very long time.

Nearly all new GT500’s arrive with a dead battery. These new computer-loaded cars will drain a battery in 2-3 weeks if left alone.

 

[Elp_jc]

Are there 'bigger' batteries that have more voltage that you can use to get a better battery?

As mentioned before, just more capacity, or Ah (Ampere hour). The problem with our cars is no larger battery fits inside the car's battery cavity with the lid on, so for people who want the car to look OEM, we're stuck with a 96R battery. But I bought an AGM DieHard one, from Advanced Auto. Same capacity, but no risk of any leaks, and it's a better battery. Now I leave it hooked up to a charger all the time while in the garage. And my car is stock. I do have a radar detector connected/mounted to the mirror, but it's like if it wasn't there, since it only works with the ignition on (and RD is off). Some folks disable BMS (battery management system), so alternator charges at 13.5V all the time, but I left it alone.

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