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Soulja4187

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I just did a Static Current check today. The car has a very high 3.2 current draw with car turned off. I will have to T/S to find out where the excessive current draw is. A normal static current for a newer car should be lower than .5 amps.
Have you checked to see if your glove box closes all the way? Turn on the video recording on your phone and put it inside the glove box to see if the light stays on or off or wait until it gets dark and see if you have any light bleed.
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DougS550

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Have you checked to see if your glove box closes all the way? Turn on the video recording on your phone and put it inside the glove box to see if the light stays on or off or wait until it gets dark and see if you have any light bleed.
My glove box light does go on and off with the switch but will check tonight.
 

ORRadtech

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I just did a Static Current check today. The car has a very high 3.2 current draw with car turned off. I will have to T/S to find out where the excessive current draw is. A normal static current for a newer car should be lower than .5 amps.
I'd be curious to know the procedure you used to find that number.
I ask because, if it's a standard size battery, a rough estimate of its Ah capacity will be in the area of 330Ah. With a 3.2A draw you would have a flat battery in a bit over 4 days. Of sitting unused.
So, If my guesstimate is anywhere close you either have something really wrong or your test was off.
 

Elp_jc

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I just did a Static Current check today. The car has a very high 3.2 current draw with car turned off.
Man, that's A LOT indeed... but did you also try AFTER a few hours, when the car is supposed to be 'asleep'??? At any rate, now that I remember, after not using or charging the car for a few days, when I hooked it up to the charger, the light was freaking RED. After a week, my wife's car is green/yellow, and that's with a lot of short-distance trips. I thought it was the battery going bad, so changed it yesterday. But curious what you find on the discharge after the battery saver feature kicks in, which is about 15 minutes after you shut off the ignition.

Many times I leave my doors partly open (just on the first 'click'), and the trunk open, when I'm going to work on the car, so the stupid interior lights don't turn on every time (as you know, there's no OFF button), and windows indexing constantly too. And after about 10 minutes, everything is off. But yeah, while they stay on, the battery discharges some, of course. I typically charge it after doint that.
 

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I put mine on a battery tender if I do not drive it for more than a week, just to be sure. It is fine week to week.
 

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Andrew@Lethal

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hasn't been started for a grand total of 3 days. Went to start it up and nothing. Hooked up a battery charger and then a poping sound through the speakers about1 per second. It has been charging for about 15 minutes. I didn't see any indication that this is an "AGM" battery, whatever that means, so I left it on 12v normal. What the heck is going on with this car?? Is this a battery issue? or something more drastic? btw, haven't had anything running like the radio or lamps or anything. Need some advice with this please.
Hopefully it is covered under warranty. Make sure you don't have anything aftermarket plugged into a USB or cigarette port that will drain the battery overnight. If you do not want to go through all that i'd go to Costcos and pick up an interstate battery for your car and turn in the old one for a $15 core refund.
 

DougS550

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I'd be curious to know the procedure you used to find that number.
I ask because, if it's a standard size battery, a rough estimate of its Ah capacity will be in the area of 330Ah. With a 3.2A draw you would have a flat battery in a bit over 4 days. Of sitting unused.
So, If my guesstimate is anywhere close you either have something really wrong or your test was off.
Man, that's A LOT indeed... but did you also try AFTER a few hours, when the car is supposed to be 'asleep'??? At any rate, now that I remember, after not using or charging the car for a few days, when I hooked it up to the charger, the light was freaking RED. After a week, my wife's car is green/yellow, and that's with a lot of short-distance trips. I thought it was the battery going bad, so changed it yesterday. But curious what you find on the discharge after the battery saver feature kicks in, which is about 15 minutes after you shut off the ignition.

Many times I leave my doors partly open (just on the first 'click'), and the trunk open, when I'm going to work on the car, so the stupid interior lights don't turn on every time (as you know, there's no OFF button), and windows indexing constantly too. And after about 10 minutes, everything is off. But yeah, while they stay on, the battery discharges some, of course. I typically charge it after doint that.
I did check the car static after 1 hour and the current draw was right at .75 amps. But it stayed above 3.5 for about 10 minutes before dropping and I didn't hear anything switching on or off. **And for the reply above, I have been troubleshooting/repairing integrated Electronics/Electrical systems for the last 40 years in Aviation and use high end Fluke Meters, both Probe and Clamp on. Anyway. I did find that my current Lighting Modifications to my my front headlights and turn signals do pull about .30 amps with the car static. , I will install another relay to totally isolate the front lighting system with a ignition on-off wire to totally remove all power to my front head lights even the relays when the car is off. I feel the Motorcraft batteries from what I have seen in the past as not being of high quality I replaced with a Store bought Brand I trust. Good luck, and thanks for your help.
 

DougS550

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I put mine on a battery tender if I do not drive it for more than a week, just to be sure. It is fine week to week.
I done another static system current test, my current draw was .33 amps RMS. The high 3.5 RMS current draw decreases after about 10 minutes to the .33amp. Not bad, must have been the Motorcraft.
 

Elp_jc

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I done another static system current test, my current draw was .33 amps RMS.
Hey Doug, need a huge favor; hope you don't mind. Charged my new battery 3 days ago, and now it's at 12.46V, so just hooked up the charger again, and the light was yellow. The new battery had an AUG 20 sticker, and it had 12.56V; I fully charged it (before installation), and the light was green/yellow. So in 3 freaking days, it's lower than month and change by itself. But it could be that I left both doors partially closed (first click), and trunk and hood open, since I've been cleaning/detailing the car. However, the draw should be exactly the same as if the car is fully closed IMO... and THAT is what I want you to check for me, please :). Could you please leave everything open (doors open at the first click so you don't get crap inside your car, trunk popped, and hood open, obvioulsy), measure the draw when the puddle/interior lights are still on, and then when everything turns off in about 10 minutes, measure the draw again, and see if it's the same 0.33 you had with everything closed? Thanks brother.

Finally, can you translate how many volts (or fraction, rather) a day the 0.33A RMS figure means??? So I (and others) can figure if my car has a normal or excessive parasitic drain. Everything is off, so can't figure out what could be causing that. Even with its smallish battery, it shouldn't be draining it that much. Thank you. By the way, the only electrical 'mods' I have is the radar detector hardwired to the mirror (switched power), and a battery pigtail (to charge it), so they cannot be causing that. Thx.
JC
 
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DougS550

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Man, that's A LOT indeed... but did you also try AFTER a few hours, when the car is supposed to be 'asleep'??? At any rate, now that I remember, after not using or charging the car for a few days, when I hooked it up to the charger, the light was freaking RED. After a week, my wife's car is green/yellow, and that's with a lot of short-distance trips. I thought it was the battery going bad, so changed it yesterday. But curious what you find on the discharge after the battery saver feature kicks in, which is about 15 minutes after you shut off the ignition.

Many times I leave my doors partly open (just on the first 'click'), and the trunk open, when I'm going to work on the car, so the stupid interior lights don't turn on every time (as you know, there's no OFF button), and windows indexing constantly too. And after about 10 minutes, everything is off. But yeah, while they stay on, the battery discharges some, of course. I typically charge it after doint that.
 

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DougS550

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I just did another Parasitic draw test like you wanted.
Battery 12.47VDC
1: Opened drivers door and AMP draw was 7.5~8.5 amps RMS
2: I then closed my drivers door to the first click
2: Unlocked the trunk with the FOB but didn't physically open
3: Glove box left open
4: One hour later the Parasitic Current draw was 0.01~0.02 amps RMS, seemed real low but that is what it was. Had to open the door fully and then close before the battery rundown protection system allowed power to go back to the interior lights.
5: CCA X 0.7=Ah. NOTE: The discharge rate will increase over the consumption time in
Non-Linear way. Usually 12.6 is fully charged. I have been doing draw test all day without charging so that is why mine was 12.47 VDC.

I see no issue with my battery Parasitic Draw test.
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Elp_jc

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Interesting results; thank you very much for doing that :). So leaving doors open doesn't affect anything once the battery saving feature kicks in. Didn't use the car today, but next time will leave it locked overnight (for the 8-hr thing) and see what happens. I assume you can leave the hood open for that, right? Or everything has to be closed? Right now, I think something is eating my battery, but have no idea what. The only changes I made recently were adding emergency brake lights (an Euro feature), and changing the animation from Ford to Ford Performance; that's it. I'm going to look into turning accessory power to zero seconds after shutting car off, so minimize current draw while the battery feature kicks in. For now, I'm leaving the charger connected all the time, since I don't want to ruin my new battery.
 

DougS550

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Interesting results; thank you very much for doing that :). So leaving doors open doesn't affect anything once the battery saving feature kicks in. Didn't use the car today, but next time will leave it locked overnight (for the 8-hr thing) and see what happens. I assume you can leave the hood open for that, right? Or everything has to be closed? Right now, I think something is eating my battery, but have no idea what. The only changes I made recently were adding emergency brake lights (an Euro feature), and changing the animation from Ford to Ford Performance; that's it. I'm going to look into turning accessory power to zero seconds after shutting car off, so minimize current draw while the battery feature kicks in. For now, I'm leaving the charger connected all the time, since I don't want to ruin my new battery.
It should not be discharging like that. As long as you don't have something directly connected to the battery your going to have to isolate systems. But if you
1: Disconnect your negative side wire from the battery and clamp one lead from a good quality RMS multi meter to the battery negative terminal
2: Connect the other lead from meter to the disconnected cable.
3: Put the meter in the current mode setup
4: Select the 10A setting.
5: Open and then close the driver's door.
6: Record the current reading. 7: Leave alone for 1 hour
8: What current draw does the meter show

Note: my 2019 gt Premium 401a PP1 does not have a under hood light.
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