Cylinder Head Temps

[S5501960]

We just installed the Ford Performance/Roush 2650 supercharger kit on our 2019 Mustang GT the other day. It works great but I'm noticing higher engine temps (not unexpected), and I got to wondering what would be the maximum cylinder head temp for the gen 3 Coyote engine? Yesterday I was out driving it and was doing a few pulls and running between 4000 and 4500 RPM for awhile and noticed the cylinder head temp was running 230-233. I'm wondering whether that's a safe operating temp and whether it's normal for this engine while running a supercharger. The water temp gauge was showing normal operating temps. Thanks.

Sponsored

 

[SheepDog]

We just installed the Ford Performance/Roush 2650 supercharger kit on our 2019 Mustang GT the other day. It works great but I'm noticing higher engine temps (not unexpected), and I got to wondering what would be the maximum cylinder head temp for the gen 3 Coyote engine? Yesterday I was out driving it and was doing a few pulls and running between 4000 and 4500 RPM for awhile and noticed the cylinder head temp was running 230-233. I'm wondering whether that's a safe operating temp and whether it's normal for this engine while running a supercharger. The water temp gauge was showing normal operating temps. Thanks.

Twin screws (especially the Roush) are notoriously bad at heat soak, and trapping heat in the heads.

I've never seen temps that high, even on the dyno. Id' recommend upgrading your radiator and heat exchanger for the blower if you can. 230 is pretty hot

 

[ice445]

230 is getting up there. 240 is where the tune starts cutting power. I wouldn't let it get above that.

 

[Proshop]

230 is getting up there. 240 is where the tune starts cutting power. I wouldn't let it get above that.

Actually that’s Iat2 temps where it starts cutting power.

OP I had a Roush Phase 2 for 15 months and in the FL heat. I never saw cylinder head temps that high especially while cruising. You also must remember that cylinder head temps are not the same as actual engine temp or iat2’s. It is definitely concerning but you also must remember you have now stuck an oven on top of another oven is the best way to describe it.

 

[engineermike]

@Proshop did you see high iat just cruising or only at wot? I ask because I’m logging a Roush and it seems to run 140 mct at 90 iat just cruising steady state under no boost. This seems wrong to me.

 

[Proshop]

@Proshop did you see high iat just cruising or only at wot? I ask because I’m logging a Roush and it seems to run 140 mct at 90 iat just cruising steady state under no boost. This seems wrong to me.

Mike unfortunately it has been awhile since I had it on but… I do remember seeing high iat2’s after doing some back to back pulls in the FL heat and even after cruising they would remain high. This is one of the reasons I opted for having a Killer Chiller installed because it did help make the IAT2’s a little more manageable after back to back pulls. Ultimately not being able to shed all that heat is why I ditched the Roush and went the ESS route.

 

[engineermike]

I know its commonly accepted lth at the intercooler brick is too small but the fact that it rides ambient +50 deg even at no boost/cruise tells me there are other shortcomings like the exchanger radiator or pump.

 

[Proshop]

I know its commonly accepted lth at the intercooler brick is too small but the fact that it rides ambient +50 deg even at no boost/cruise tells me there are other shortcomings like the exchanger radiator or pump.

I would completely agree!

 

[SheepDog]

I know its commonly accepted lth at the intercooler brick is too small but the fact that it rides ambient +50 deg even at no boost/cruise tells me there are other shortcomings like the exchanger radiator or pump.

Nothing works better than chemical cooling. A tiny nozzle and a 50/50 mix on a water/meth system will make more of a difference than any radiator, pump, heat exchanger ever could.

 

[Zrussian13]

I usually quit ripping on my car when it hits 230. I'm in az so it's hot but i can usually get 3 back to back pulls if it's under 105°ish before it gets close to those Temps. 94k miles on the car now and it hasn't blown up yet so I'm going to keep this mentality.

 

[ice445]

Actually that’s Iat2 temps where it starts cutting power.

OP I had a Roush Phase 2 for 15 months and in the FL heat. I never saw cylinder head temps that high especially while cruising. You also must remember that cylinder head temps are not the same as actual engine temp or iat2’s. It is definitely concerning but you also must remember you have now stuck an oven on top of another oven is the best way to describe it.

I'm thinking of the stock tune here, although I thought the roush tune was the same here in that aspect. 240cht means about 230f coolant temps in most situations, so I sure hope its dialing back timing like stock will lmao

 

[Proshop]

I'm thinking of the stock tune here, although I thought the roush tune was the same here in that aspect. 240cht means about 230f coolant temps in most situations, so I sure hope its dialing back timing like stock will lmao

You are probably correct but high cylinder head temps will play into high IAT2’s also so they go hand in hand.

 

[1SLwLS1]

We just installed the Ford Performance/Roush 2650 supercharger kit on our 2019 Mustang GT the other day. It works great but I'm noticing higher engine temps (not unexpected), and I got to wondering what would be the maximum cylinder head temp for the gen 3 Coyote engine? Yesterday I was out driving it and was doing a few pulls and running between 4000 and 4500 RPM for awhile and noticed the cylinder head temp was running 230-233. I'm wondering whether that's a safe operating temp and whether it's normal for this engine while running a supercharger. The water temp gauge was showing normal operating temps. Thanks.

I know its commonly accepted lth at the intercooler brick is too small but the fact that it rides ambient +50 deg even at no boost/cruise tells me there are other shortcomings like the exchanger radiator or pump.

Mine will run 50+ ambient in those conditions on hot and humid Texas days but only when cruising at a higher load, like 85-90 MPH. When cruising at lower speeds (maybe 70 MPH or so), it is probably +40F.

I am phase 2 all stock A10 w/ 3.55 gears and taller rear tires (275/40/R20) to offset gears a bit, it is still around 2400 RPM at 90 MPH. I am also a non-performance pack so smaller radiator which I am betting also contributes to a bit higher temperatures. I will often see major fluctuations in temperatures without much logic other than turning higher RPMs even under lower load will just build a ton more heat, like 220+ CHT cruising at 90MPH sometimes, other times it is at 205 CHT under similar conditions.

OP is yours smaller non-pp radiator or do you have the larger radiator?

 

[Andy13186]

I hit 258 CHT but it was 95* out and I had warm started the car heatsoaked and drove pretty hard for probably 7 mins probably all from 4500-8000 rpm. No problems from that but im on e50 and aluminator whippled with pp1 radiator. After I noticed it was that high I kept driving and let it cool down to sub 210 before parking.

 

[Cory S]

Ambient and avg moving speeds play a 75% majority of the role of IAT1/2’s.

Sponsored