Coyote 3 Oil Catch Can

[WD Pro]

I fitted mine well before 100 miles and there was already a slightly oily residue inside the pipe that’s removed / replaced by the ford breather

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[Andrew@Lethal]

Running a catch can doesn't hurt. It stops any blow-by from getting into the throttle-body/manifold away. I'd keep it on.

 

[Fastfwd]

Got it installed. Looks like it might be tricky to drain it with that giant engine cover in place. If the engine cover has to be lifted its going to be a pain.

Looks good though. Heads up that those fasteners do suggest specific torque specs in the instructions. I needed a small torque wrench anyway for lower torque specs, but it added to the overall cost to do it right. I didn't have deep sockets that were needed too. Just Sayin. If you are very bedget conscious you might take that into consideration if you can't borrow tools.

 

[black_2018_gt]

I ditched my engine cover. The 18+ cover just looks horrible.

 

[Vlad Soare]

@WD Pro and @Vlad Soare

An update from Denmark!
I hit 1000km in my car and took out the catch cans.

This is a picture of the amount of oil that was in the R/H side

It is a very little amount but just thinking of this would have been enden up caking in the engine over time makes me happy that I installed the catch can!

The L/H side is not worth mentioning... it was dry - as in BONE. FREAKIN'. DRY. I even wiped my finger in it but it was as clean as when I installed it.

And for good meassures - I have the JLT 3.0 catch cans on both sides

Wow! That looks like a lot of oil for just one thousand kilometers. If that's the case, then I don't want to drive without a catch can. I hope my Ford Performance will arrive before the car does. Luckily my dealer is just four kilometers away from my home, so I won't have to drive too long without it. I'll drive straight home and then won't start the engine again until the catch can is in place.
I ordered it from Steeda three days ago, it was in stock, and yet it's still not shipped yet. And the car is due to arrive any minute now... What's taking them so long?

 

[Andy13186]

Catch can keeps your octane up since oil in the combustion chamber lowers the octane. Id get one especially if you drive the car hard or are tuned. I think I have caught atleast 8 oz over 26k miles with my JLT can. On my old 90k mile 630rwhp supercharged CTS-V id get like 12 oz per 5k miles, that was kind of ridiculous. The CTS-V had a moroso can and it seemed to catch the oil very effectively, my 2018 mustang has the JLT and either it just has less blowby or the can doesnt catch as much oil as the moroso. I do burn at least a quart per 5k miles but I hit 7500 rpm 20 times a day.

 

[Fly2High]

Got it installed. Looks like it might be tricky to drain it with that giant engine cover in place. If the engine cover has to be lifted its going to be a pain.

Looks good though. Heads up that those fasteners do suggest specific torque specs in the instructions. I needed a small torque wrench anyway for lower torque specs, but it added to the overall cost to do it right. I didn't have deep sockets that were needed too. Just Sayin. If you are very bedget conscious you might take that into consideration if you can't borrow tools.

That is just terrible!! I most definitely would have gone for the UPR since it gets mounted in the empty space alongside the radiator and has a thumb turn bolt and quick connects so that it can be easily removed and drained. For me, that is a deal breaker.

As for the engine cover, it is ugly but it is even uglier with it off. Maybe see if you can get thumb turn bolts and replace the bolts holding the cover on with them. I would just hate to remove it and then need a socket wrench to take the cover off the catch can to drain it.

 

[WD Pro]

You don’t need any tools to remove or drain the FP catch can.

You need a 10mm socket for the engine cover so you can get to the catch can.

WD

 

[Fly2High]

This dude on Youtube compares the Ford Performance oil separator to the JLT and some other option. It looks like the Ford Performance has superior filtering and overall design, but I'm sure that is debatable. That's why I went with the Ford Performance option.

Have you seen the videos comparing Bob's , UPR or RXP catch cans to JLT? there are better options from those videos than the Ford or older JLT. Could be the new JLT is better(ver 3) but I have yet to see reviews comparing it at this point. So far, the UPR 50-30-226 is very good with Bob's and XRP being tops. I think i prefer UPR mounting and install. Bob's did say they would make me a bracket if I wanted to mount it alongside the radiator like UPR and others but never sent me the specs on the can so I could see if it would fit. I think there is only 6 -7 inches of space from the mounting bolt UPR uses so I am not sure if the drain on Bob's is accessible there.

 

[Fly2High]

@WD Pro and @Vlad Soare

An update from Denmark!
I hit 1000km in my car and took out the catch cans.

This is a picture of the amount of oil that was in the R/H side

It is a very little amount but just thinking of this would have been enden up caking in the engine over time makes me happy that I installed the catch can!

The L/H side is not worth mentioning... it was dry - as in BONE. FREAKIN'. DRY. I even wiped my finger in it but it was as clean as when I installed it.

And for good measures - I have the JLT 3.0 catch cans on both sides

My question based on so little fluid is it that either you have a good engine or a poor performing catch can. Could you photograph the outlet pipe just after the can? If you see moisture/oil there, you know your can is not that good. I have seen testing where they put can in series and often the second can caught stuff after some cans.

 

[Fastfwd]

You don’t need any tools to remove or drain the FP catch can.

You need a 10mm socket for the engine cover so you can get to the catch can.

WD

Yeah, you can almost install it with just those two 10mm nuts removed giving the engine cover some wiggle room. I decided to remove the tower strut bar so I didn't scratch up the engine cover wrestling with it though. The instructions were kind enough to provide torque specs to tighten it back.

This might be a waste after 17.5k miles idk. As mentioned here it does at least provide some improved performance to help remove that vapor from the combustion - or so I gather. So, it has other benefits to justify it.

 

[WD Pro]

Sorry, my response was aimed at @Fly2High as I got the impression he read your info that you needed torque wrench etc to drain the can

WD

 

[JakeLethal]

I'm sure it doesn't hurt to have the extra insurance, but I considered getting a catch can for my 2019 GT and just passed on doing it. I had already spent a wad on an extra set of wheels/tires, tint, PPF, etc.

Primarily, I had looked at other cars with direct injection (notably the Volkswagen Golf R) and those vehicles had pretty established histories with their direct injection causing carbon buildup engine problems that a catch can helped with. My impression was that the entire idea of Ford and Toyota having both direct and port injection was supposed to be to avoid the carbon buildup on the valves that direct injection alone would create, right?

So, now, I'm sitting at 16k miles and I'm feeling a vibe that I really screwed up not putting a catch can on my car and I'm wondering if anyone has seen a Coyote 3 experience buildup without a catch can? Is there any definitive evidence that it is actually needed for anything other than a potential performance gain from catching that extra oil while driving hard?

Honestly, I got a little put off of making any mechanical mods to my car while under warranty with all of the hoopla over the engine tick madness too. I've not had any trouble with my motor and I've had clean oil analysis come back twice so far.

I mean I can't say I blame you for utilizing the vehicles warranty ( obvi ) I personally have just been a firm believer in these catch cans. Once you actually see what they "catch", I feel as though It will make you a believer as well. UPR makes a great one. Ran it on my '14 and never looked back! Hope this helps!

 

[Fastfwd]

Sorry, my response was aimed at @Fly2High as I got the impression he read your info that you needed torque wrench etc to drain the can

WD

Torque specs are provided for the top of the can itself too, actually.

Nobody has to observe any of those provided specs. I've just been trying to do better recently about it myself.

 

[WD Pro]

Yes, but if I interpreted the instructions correctly you don’t need to take the top of the can to empty it

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